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What is the point of 17.5 blinky class?

What is the point of 17.5 blinky class?

Old 12-08-2015, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by wittyname View Post
I don't have any real experience with the class , but from what I read here it seems the motors are the #1 cheater problem . Wouldn't a sealed can motor with no timing adjustments go a long way to fixing that ? I know some always will find a way , but come on ....
This just means that people will buy 10 motors to find the 1 good one. Then if one bearing goes bad or if you are on a real dirty track how would they clean it out or replace bearings?
The timing part is debatable.

Originally Posted by wittyname View Post
It also seems to me the greatest cost comes at trying to get down to fighting weight. Wouldn't it be simple enough to raise the min weight for the class ? If the lightest kit sold had to ADD weight to make minimum weight , who would try and lose weight ? Just to have to add it back ?
I don't remember the last time the minimum weight changed. I don't think it's changed much since SUB C cell days and they were certainly heavier. Even since the gold pan days people would hack up their chassis and put the weight where they wanted it. That will not change. In all cars the more weight you have around the rotation point the quicker it will be over something that isn't "optimized". On lefty/righty cars that's near center. On lefty only cars that's on the left side, generally speaking. The rules allow anyone to build their own car from the ground up however they want. That's what this hobby was built on. Many companies just make it easier for people to get going.

Originally Posted by wittyname View Post
This extra weight would force people to back up on the gearing some , which would slow the cars some . Which some seem to want .
The issue is the difference in speed, or lack thereof, between mod and stock at many places that get exposure on here/liverc/magazines. Certainly there are plenty of tracks its not an issue at. At an industry level its a two-fold issue. Due you keep making money because of the popularity of the class due to its "on-the-cusp-of-joe-racer-ability-speed" or do you slow it down for the new guy and start selling mod motors again to the experienced racer? I doubt adding enough weight to slow cars down would do anything more than burn up existing equipment or break more parts. While I'm not an electrical engineer I have a strong suspicion it is easier to come out with a new slower motor than re-engineering every car out there.
Keep in mind there are a few classes not race anymore because they got to fast for the majority.

Originally Posted by wittyname View Post
Would a esc limit of say 60a with no timing help ?

I never got to run 17.5 . Our track is mod only but I certainly wish I could run a spec 2wd buggy class . I love driving 2wd , I suck at it , and learning on track in the middle of a mod heat isn't cool.
I highly doubt it. People will just want batteries with less resistance and less voltage drop.. so you could expect a battery of the month club to form.
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Old 12-08-2015, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Mason View Post
You cannot properly tech a motor after it has run. The heat causes resistance to rise therefore giving you a false reading on that measurement. They impound vehicles to keep you near the track so you don't wander off to miss your marshal duties.
I watched them literally weigh every single buggy and check that batteries and motors were on the legal list, this is during impound. We run mod only so they only check that the motor is BRCA approved.
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Old 12-08-2015, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by wittyname View Post
I don't have any real experience with the class , but from what I read here it seems the motors are the #1 cheater problem . Wouldn't a sealed can motor with no timing adjustments go a long way to fixing that ? I know some always will find a way , but come on ....

It also seems to me the greatest cost comes at trying to get down to fighting weight. Wouldn't it be simple enough to raise the min weight for the class ? If the lightest kit sold had to ADD weight to make minimum weight , who would try and lose weight ? Just to have to add it back ?

This extra weight would force people to back up on the gearing some , which would slow the cars some . Which some seem to want .

Would a esc limit of say 60a with no timing help ?

I never got to run 17.5 . Our track is mod only but I certainly wish I could run a spec 2wd buggy class . I love driving 2wd , I suck at it , and learning on track in the middle of a mod heat isn't cool.
That is a cool observation about weight...I like it. Make stock class 1600 grams minimum (1499 currently). Most buggies weigh around 1550 to 1620 ready to run before you start weight saving measures.
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Old 12-08-2015, 11:46 AM
  #139  
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I got back into the hobby 5 years ago after a 12 year absence. I got talked into buying a 4x4 SCTE. That truck was not teaching me anything at all other than how to leave the track frustrated.
I then went and got a 22sct. That truck taught me how to drive. In the process I could not figure out how Jonny Racer (insert top driver name) was so much faster than me. Well I better buy a better battery and motor and oh he has pucks so i need pucks too. I went about a year and a half thinking in my head that these guys are cheating before I come to the realization of this. Sure you need a fast hot rod but more than anything I need to learn how to drive and I need to go to the track more than the one time a week to race. I need practice, we all need practice. Even Tom Brady has to show up for practice to stay sharp and learn.
I have talked to many of the 'fast guys' and listened to what they say. Most of them will tell you the same thing, stay 4 to 6 inches off that tube and remember that slower is better most of the time. We all can run fast in straight line but its the infield that separates the top from bottom. One racer told me to just practice on racedays with my buggy, dont even practice with my SC and the SC will be easier to drive, boy was he right!
Once I approached RC Racing with that mindset I continually got better. I started making the A Main each week and eventually now I can run more competitively than ever. I make sure I practice as much as I can.
While I have won a few club level races I still have not won what i consider to be a big race but I am still chasing that dream and I will be doing it in a 17.5 blinky class (please do not call it a stock class!!!)
You all can debate over Pucks, cut gears, 100c batteries ect but until you can actually drive what you own and run 5 to 7 marshall free, no blowing turns laps then all that means nothing.


disclaimer: The best moment of my rc racing yet was the day I legit passed that fast guy I was chasing for 2 years on the track. I only got to do it once so far but to me that was a win.
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Old 12-08-2015, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by dirt42fan View Post
disclaimer: The best moment of my rc racing yet was the day I legit passed that fast guy I was chasing for 2 years on the track. I only got to do it once so far but to me that was a win.
I call that the "golf buzz". Hit that one perfect shot and it makes you so happy that you spend the rest of the month trying to do it again.
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Old 12-08-2015, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
I think capable was exactly the right word. If they didn't "want to be the enforcer" then they were incapable of handling the responsibility of making their stock class fair for all the paying racers and thus allowed one cheater to spoil the class for at least one racer, likely many more.
Ok....be an example and step up......put your experience to work......I have no problem stepping up at my local track....if need be.....I am new to the area......I need to get to know more of the racers......lol
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Old 12-08-2015, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by dirt42fan View Post
Sure you need a fast hot rod but more than anything I need to learn how to drive and I need to go to the track more than the one time a week to race. I need practice, we all need practice.

stay 4 to 6 inches off that tube and remember that slower is better most of the time. We all can run fast in straight line but its the infield that separates the top from bottom.
+1

amazing some never ever get this concept.
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Old 12-08-2015, 01:19 PM
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The only reason i run 17.5 over mod is because at my local track there 3-6 mods guys any given night. Theres 10+ 17.5 guys every night. I would rather run mod..but not by myself
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Old 12-08-2015, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by fivepointnine View Post
But that is the issue...WITHIN THE RULES. I have witnessed people floating jumps only mod cars can make (in the "17.5" class) at several tracks in the area I used to live, people would comment, yet the tracks are reluctant to do anything about it.

I like how the BRCA does it for regional and national races. After your heat your buggy is "impounded" at a table, then while you marshal the buggies from that heat are teched EVERY SINGLE ROUND, EVERY SINGLE BUGGY!
With respect the BRCA rules are to the mod equivalent in the states and cars are only checked for weight, dimensions, voltage, motor and battery on the list etc - tyres are a given as its Schumacher or ballistic.

Ive never seen a motor taken apart at a national or heard of it being done either and whether it's a benefit to run alternative rotors for example in a car that has far more power than grip remains to be seen!
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Old 12-08-2015, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by losi8lunie View Post
With respect the BRCA rules are to the mod equivalent in the states and cars are only checked for weight, dimensions, voltage, motor and battery on the list etc - tyres are a given as its Schumacher or ballistic.

Ive never seen a motor taken apart at a national or heard of it being done either and whether it's a benefit to run alternative rotors for example in a car that has far more power than grip remains to be seen!
I've never heard of a 17.5 car having far more power than grip. If they did then slipper eliminators wouldn't exist.
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Old 12-08-2015, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
I've never heard of a 17.5 car having far more power than grip. If they did then slipper eliminators wouldn't exist.
you have obviously never ran on really bumpy, dusty low grip surface then, as
you will easily break traction with a 17.5, especially coupled with running a emiminator
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Old 12-08-2015, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by I)arkness View Post
you have obviously never ran on really bumpy, dusty low grip surface then, as
you will easily break traction with a 17.5, especially coupled with running a emiminator
Wow thanks for the clarification Captain Obvious.
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Old 12-09-2015, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
Wow thanks for the clarification Captain Obvious.
no worries m8, glad i could clear that up for you!
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Old 12-09-2015, 02:04 AM
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Originally Posted by losi8lunie View Post
With respect the BRCA rules are to the mod equivalent in the states and cars are only checked for weight, dimensions, voltage, motor and battery on the list etc - tyres are a given as its Schumacher or ballistic.

Ive never seen a motor taken apart at a national or heard of it being done either and whether it's a benefit to run alternative rotors for example in a car that has far more power than grip remains to be seen!
I was just pointing out teching differences as I have raced regionals in the UK and big races in the US. I have never seen mandatory teching to the level of BRCA in the US, which I think they need to help curb the cheating. I understand the biggest races have good teching (Cactus classic, etc) but not the regional type races.
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Old 12-09-2015, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by fivepointnine View Post
That is a cool observation about weight...I like it. Make stock class 1600 grams minimum (1499 currently). Most buggies weigh around 1550 to 1620 ready to run before you start weight saving measures.
The latest buggies from AE and TLR are more like 1530g RTR. My B5M lite is 1525g out of the box with basic electronics and no weight saving parts.
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