tilimil

iTrader: (1)

Debating on buying the 22 2.0 instead of the 3.0 while it is on a fire sale. My boys and I don't race a lot and frankly aren't that good yet. I am thinking the 2.0 would be above our ability and I can save some money going that route. Do I need to be concerned about parts availability 2 years down the road? Any other significant reason I should spend the extra on the 3.0? Thanks for any input.

Matt M.

iTrader: (26)

here is my take, as a tlr racer from the jrxt days...

if money isnt an problem, spring for the 3.0..if it is, well, i would get a 2.0 for my kid, and a 3.0 for myself...

the parts are somewhat compatible, ie, diff, idler gear, and topshaft\slipper, also the drive shafts are compatible. the front is compatible also, aside from the front arms, and vla caster blocks...

the shocks are also compatible...

now that said, if you buy if you buy a 2.0 and want it to be "current " with the go fast parts, you will need a cab forward body, the short chassis, and the bellcranks...that stuff is probably 135 more...so your at a 3.0 anyhow..

i would do what your wallet allows...

gokarter64

You could have put this in one of the threads about the cars.

To awnser your question though. Parts will be ok for a while because the 3.0 shares most of the same parts that newbies tend to break on the 2.0 but i will say that the 3.0 will be easier to drive. The forward weight and narrow chassis made it a difficult car to drive fast. The 3.0 moves the motor back farther and allows you to place the battery sideways in the car which slows body roll due to weight being out farther towards the edges of the chassis.

Fasttrak

For what you can get a 2.0 for right now, you would be crazy to buy several 3.0 kits. It will be quite some time that your skills will point out the deficiencies of chassis design. Save yourself the money and buy a couple Hobby Wing Just Stock Spec speed controls, $39.99 right now at Amain which is a good starting ESC. Grab a couple of the TLR 22-2 kits at a massive savings, like two kits for the price of one 22-3. Go to http://www.smc-racing.net/ and grab a couple of their Factory Spec 7.4V Shorty 4400mAh 60C at $39.95 each and a good quality charger. By the time you beat the hell out of that setup you will know better what will suite your driving styles.

RockinTheCasbah

iTrader: (7)

You can pick up a used 2.0 for nothing right now, and use the saved money to buy yourself a 3.0.

BRSracing

iTrader: (67)

if your never going to race and just going to bash around 2.0. Parts will be around longer than the car most likely. If you have any desire to race in the near future 3.0

tilimil

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the input everyone. Ultimately, I just couldn't resist the shiny new toy and I just felt like I would wish I had bought the 3.0 later so I went that route. Its on its way!

fbrk8r

iTrader: (3)

FWIW, at our local track, mid motor just doesn't work if the track is dried out any. In that case, rear motor is much easier to drive. Can't do rear with the 3.0. With that being said, I haven't driven a 3.0 on our track yet, but I have driven pretty much every other mid motor and I like rear motor better.