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Mugen Seiki MBX7TR ECO

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Mugen Seiki MBX7TR ECO

Old 06-02-2016, 10:14 AM
  #106  
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Has a new white Mugen wing and white Grid II's coming tomorrow




QUOTE=werner sline;14552302]cool, do you have a picture of your car ?[/QUOTE]
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Old 06-02-2016, 10:16 AM
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BTW, I figured out the bind issue, it was on LF CVD wrist pin. It was stuck and dragging on inside of inner bearing. Set up right, nice and smooth now. Will be on the track this weekend at the CRC Rumble in Rome.


[QUOTE=hispeedguy;14551369]
Originally Posted by werner sline View Post
ehm , by the way, what is a mbx8t ?[/QUOTE

LOL. Very big fat finger typo (MBX8t)

Thanks for the advice. I already started tearing the steering all back down and starting over.
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Old 06-02-2016, 01:31 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by mavdriver View Post
If you want to post pics go to advance when you are ready to post scroll down to manage attachments click on it and it will take you to the file on your computer where you have your pictures and go from there pretty easy once you follow those steps
I just tried this, a couple of times, and it says the upload failed.
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Old 06-06-2016, 11:15 PM
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Any input on the 7t vs. 7tr? I've got the universals and shocks ordered and was wondering if there was a noticeable difference before installing them. Thanks ulch
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Old 06-08-2016, 05:43 AM
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To me the 7TR eco seems more responsive in the rough sections than my 7T economic did. I also feel like the front end gets less out of shape on the 7TR eco. I am running the same setup on my 7TR as I did my 7T, and feel that the upgrades in the new kit, allow for smoother driving, with more front end confidence.
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Old 06-08-2016, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Ulch View Post
Any input on the 7t vs. 7tr? I've got the universals and shocks ordered and was wondering if there was a noticeable difference before installing them. Thanks ulch
Its a truggy, i dont have a eco but i cant really justify getting a new kit. The 7t is awsome.. Even with the smaller shock bodies.. It does everything right. IF you have the old kit,just do i few upgrades. You wont feel any big difference installing the unis. Try a lexan wing...lol
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Old 06-08-2016, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by hairymuffin View Post
Its a truggy, i dont have a eco but i cant really justify getting a new kit. The 7t is awsome.. Even with the smaller shock bodies.. It does everything right. IF you have the old kit,just do i few upgrades. You wont feel any big difference installing the unis. Try a lexan wing...lol
+1, to re-iterate what Hairymuffin stated, I can't say that the re-investment in a new kit was worth the overall price. I really had no issue with my 7T eco, and given how good a shape it was in when I sold it I think I was just itching for a new chassis.

As previously stated there are small upgrades you can invest in without the need for a new car. I had the Aluminum Out-drives, rear Aluminum Hubs, and the Aluminum Servo Saver, plastic Spur Gear and the Aluminum Differential pins on my 7T eco, and personally for myself those changes made more difference for me, than the switch to the new chassis.

I think the CVD's were great as you could easily modify them with lighter parts and also rebuild them. I also liked the bigger bearings on the inside of the hubs. Long term, I have yet to see how the service / maintenance will change with the new chassis.

Either way if you are wheeling a Mugen, and keep up with your maintenance, you can't go wrong.
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Old 09-28-2016, 04:43 PM
  #113  
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I just got my MBX7TR ECO kit and will be building soon! I have been running 1/8 buggy, but decided I needed a truggy.

I was considering the RC8T3e, but after reading the thread on here and all the guys kept talking about putting Mugen parts on their truggy, I thought why not just get a Mugen!?

This thread seems a little quiet right now, but I was wondering if there are any build tips or gotchas to look out for.

Thanks!
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Old 09-28-2016, 05:45 PM
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Hi guys, I was wondering if the truggy and buggy use the same shocks. I've been checking part numbers and they seem to be the same. I ask because I want to get spare set of shocks and the truggy set would be 15-20 dollars less when buying F/R
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Old 09-28-2016, 07:22 PM
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The truggy shaft are longer then the buggy shafts that`s the only difference
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:56 AM
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Thanks mav diver, I ended up getting truggy fronts and buggy rears. Still saved 10 bucks which can go to some springs.
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:30 PM
  #117  
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I am building my MBX7TR ECO kit and I just finished the front. This is my first time building and I have a question on the diff. The diff feels kind of stiff when I turn the drive shaft, but seems ok turning it from the wheel drive sides. If I loosen the diff case it seems to move more smooth when I turn the drive shaft. Is this expected and the diff case just needs to break-in? I have no frame of reference, so I am not sure if this is normal.
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Old 10-01-2016, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by MocaChipMonk View Post
I am building my MBX7TR ECO kit and I just finished the front. This is my first time building and I have a question on the diff. The diff feels kind of stiff when I turn the drive shaft, but seems ok turning it from the wheel drive sides. If I loosen the diff case it seems to move more smooth when I turn the drive shaft. Is this expected and the diff case just needs to break-in? I have no frame of reference, so I am not sure if this is normal.
I just put one together last night. I did not use the spacer orientation from the manual, I actually put 2X0.2mm (from kit) and 1X0.1mm on the opposite side from where the manual said.

Play around with the thin spacers to get the diff smooth and with minimal side to side slop.

This is a good video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JpEgMEIaPos
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Old 10-01-2016, 02:03 PM
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Anyone know if there is a chart that shows the toe angles, anti-squat, and kick up changes with the different insert orientation?
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Old 10-01-2016, 02:33 PM
  #120  
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http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...l#post14454866

this page has a chart for the rear inserts
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