TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!

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  • Frank Root - Congratulations on RC Car Action Car of the Year Award for the 22 3.0. You pretty much owned the May issue - well done!!
  • Quote: Frank Root - Congratulations on RC Car Action Car of the Year Award for the 22 3.0. You pretty much owned the May issue - well done!!
    +1 Great car!
  • Quote: Frank Root - Congratulations on RC Car Action Car of the Year Award for the 22 3.0. You pretty much owned the May issue - well done!!
    Quote: +1 Great car!
    Thanks guys!
  • Has anyone tried the 22 3.0 with 4-gear, what is the difference between the 3 and 4 gear?
  • Is anyone having terrible with ball cups popping constantly if you land slightly weird or brush a coping. Front and rear?
  • Poke a hole through the ball cup with a leather punch on nee bell cups so you leave them snapped in when you have to unscrew the ball studs
  • For those who paint their bodies with spray paint, what's your go-to paint? Is there something more affordable than the small hobby store spray paints that still look good and stick to the bodies well? What do you like and where did you get it?
  • Quote: Is anyone having terrible with ball cups popping constantly if you land slightly weird or brush a coping. Front and rear?
    I've broken several parts from hard hits, but I have yet to have a ball cup pop off. However, I have never removed one from the ball stud for setup changes. When building, I drilled holes just big enough to get my 2mm driver into the hex head for easy removal without popping the cups off of the ballstud.

    Before you install the new ball cups, I recommend doing this.
  • Your ball cups must be shot. If you're going to go through the trouble of punching/drilling, do it to new ball cups. Race weekend is too short for preventable DNF's.

    Different question: Do AE's ball ends fit TLR'S ball-studs?
  • Quote: I've broken several parts from hard hits, but I have yet to have a ball cup pop off. However, I have never removed one from the ball stud for setup changes. When building, I drilled holes just big enough to get my 2mm driver into the hex head for easy removal without popping the cups off of the ballstud.

    Before you install the new ball cups, I recommend doing this.
    +1 I used a leather punch tool (from inside to out) as mentioned on a previous post, that made clean holes to access with a hex driver and adjustments very quick and easy.
  • I messed up the tip of my leather puncher trying to do this, so maybe use a body reamer and then drill?
  • Quote: Your ball cups must be shot. If you're going to go through the trouble of punching/drilling, do it to new ball cups. Race weekend is too short for preventable DNF's.

    Different question: Do AE's ball ends fit TLR'S ball-studs?
    I have AE ball cups on my car. You will need ball cups, ball studs and tierods to convert. Works great and making adjustments easy
  • I remember seeing Maifield and Denney using B5 ballcups on their 22-4s at Reedy Race I think.
  • Quote: I've never thought about this before, but I'm assuming the inverse applies as well? Moving the battery further forward could result in more weight shifting to the rear on power, potentially increasing on-power traction? Or is the benefit of having the static weight closer to the rear end of the car outweigh the weight transfer?
    Having the battery farther forward will generally reduce steering into a corner but increase steering out of the corner on power. It will also reduce rear grip coming out of the turn..
    If you need more steering into a corner try increasing camber, reducing caster or raise the roll centre. If you need more steering on power try reducing front droop(more limiters inside front shocks),stiffening rear springs or moving weight forward.
    Our cars are optimized for dirt. On carpet the rear ends feel too planted and can give the car a general feeling of slight push. Standard things I usually end up with on carpet include using the optional "0" front caster blocks to increase steering overall, move the battery full or almost full forward, stiffer springs front and rear, and move the shocks out all the way on the arms.
  • Quote: I have AE ball cups on my car. You will need ball cups, ball studs and tierods to convert. Works great and making adjustments easy
    Thanks for the tip. Did you use last-gen(smaller diameter) tie-rods?