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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Old 05-04-2019, 06:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 01-17-2019, 09:14 AM
  #5881  
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Originally Posted by kuruption
For those that are having issues with shocks leaking. Ty Tessman is at OCRC for the Reedy Race. I asked what they were doing to remedy the shock leaking and he told me to replace the Xray orings with the Yokomo X33's. He also said instead of placing the shim between the orings, install the shim first and stack the orings. I installed the Yokmo orings and installed like he said, no more leaking and the shocks are much smoother.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/search?s=z2-s3x
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Old 01-20-2019, 09:03 AM
  #5882  
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Have you try it yet
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Old 01-29-2019, 12:35 PM
  #5883  
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Originally Posted by rekim
i saw someone post elsewhere about jonny5 battery mount to use in place of the stock mount. Does anyone here use it? is the battery as secure as the stock mount?
I have a couple of them and they are awesome. They take a little finesse to get set up to your exact battery height but, IMO the are much more secure than the factory setup.
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Old 01-29-2019, 12:51 PM
  #5884  
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Has anyone messed with or found a found a way to duplicate the lower front shock mounting position seen in the team driver photos? I have seen other posts that it duplicates the effect of a gull wing arm
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Old 01-30-2019, 10:45 AM
  #5885  
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Originally Posted by rekim
i took a couple of pics of my xb2 dirt. i did my best my clean up the wires. i wish the motor wire holders were large enough for a sensor wire too.

I lay my sensor wire flat down the center channel under the battery, and secure it with a strip of vinyl. Nice and flush, you forget it's there.
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Old 01-30-2019, 04:32 PM
  #5886  
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Who runs 2 gears in gear diff vs using all 4 idler gears
mod or stock.
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Old 01-30-2019, 10:56 PM
  #5887  
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I've mostly run 2 gear, steel gears and pin, with about 20% thicker oil than I would run in 4 gear. Rotates more in general, but still stable. For me this applies only to carpet or astro, 6.5-ish motor.
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Old 01-31-2019, 12:35 PM
  #5888  
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Originally Posted by Rcforlife13
Who runs 2 gears in gear diff vs using all 4 idler gears
mod or stock.
Its best two run the 2 metal gears in either mod or stock. The 4 gear setup creates too much pressure and will cause the diff to leak. We have found the 2 gear setup seems to provide more grip anyways.
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Old 01-31-2019, 02:41 PM
  #5889  
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Originally Posted by Rcforlife13
Who runs 2 gears in gear diff vs using all 4 idler gears
mod or stock.
+1 On the 2 metal gears with metal diff pin. Carpet track both mod and stock
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Old 02-06-2019, 11:11 AM
  #5890  
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Is anyone running a heat sink on their motor? If so, how are you mounting it? Are you taking off the piece over the motor?
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Old 02-06-2019, 11:53 AM
  #5891  
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Originally Posted by Pville Stig
Its best two run the 2 metal gears in either mod or stock. The 4 gear setup creates too much pressure and will cause the diff to leak. We have found the 2 gear setup seems to provide more grip anyways.
Is this only for carpet or can it be beneficial on clay as well?
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Old 02-06-2019, 01:44 PM
  #5892  
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Originally Posted by dave-man
Is this only for carpet or can it be beneficial on clay as well?
If the question is 4 gear vs 2 gear then yes, I think it could also be beneficial on clay.

And I'm not intending to void your question entirely, but would recommend a ball diff over any gear diff config on clay, assuming that you have a ball diff handy.
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Old 02-06-2019, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by dave-man
Is this only for carpet or can it be beneficial on clay as well?
The argument between a ball diff and gear diff on any high grip surface is going to come down to the individual. Our local track before it went to turf/carpet was clay with dirt glue. The traction was super high and most ran gear diffs. Gear diff allows you to get on power out of a corner earlier but does not allow the steering and corner entry speed of a ball diff. Personally i like gear diffs a lot more on high traction than a ball diff but i think the ball diff is more consistent. Probably the biggest reason most people run gear diffs is the maintenance is less.
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Old 02-07-2019, 05:39 AM
  #5894  
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Originally Posted by Pville Stig
The argument between a ball diff and gear diff on any high grip surface is going to come down to the individual. Our local track before it went to turf/carpet was clay with dirt glue. The traction was super high and most ran gear diffs. Gear diff allows you to get on power out of a corner earlier but does not allow the steering and corner entry speed of a ball diff. Personally i like gear diffs a lot more on high traction than a ball diff but i think the ball diff is more consistent. Probably the biggest reason most people run gear diffs is the maintenance is less.
I prefer a gear diff as well (mainly because I'm somewhat new to ball diffs and not confident on how to properly set one up). I run my 19 carpet edition with gear diff (10k currently) and slipper eliminator on both carpet and high bite clay. I'm not the top dog by any stretch but I can hold my own.
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Old 02-08-2019, 10:52 AM
  #5895  
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I have to rebuild my gear diff, I think it's worn out. There is quite some play when I hold the spur gear and one wheel. Also in corners I'm loosing traction and it takes too much time to build up speed again.
What are the right metal gears? These: 335030 and this would be the right metal diff pin: 335080?
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