Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread >

Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

Like Tree195Likes

Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 05-04-2019, 06:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

Print Wikipost

Reply

Old 10-08-2019, 10:32 AM
  #6061  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Surrey, UK
Posts: 429
Default

Just been looking at various carpet setups online and it seems the top boys are pretty much always using XB4 rear arms.


In addition, I notice on some setups they are raising the gearbox by 4mm. What parts are they using to achieve this? Presumably they are using the -4mm motor plate....but are they using 1 each of 321268 and 321269 or doubling up on one of them? Has anyone tried this on carpet & did it make much difference?


Am currently running standard.....What advantages did you notice over standard with the 2mm or 4mm? Is it something worth trying?
Jaf1977 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2019, 06:27 PM
  #6062  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (40)
 
Anthony.L's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 2,772
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

The XB2 '20 model spare parts are showing up online. No pics, just part numbers and descriptions. So far looks like changes in '20 are new alum chassis with bent up sides, gull wing front arms, and new transmission. Likely new front/rear shock towers as well.

Kit part number and price is available.

XB2D '20 Part # 320007
XB2C '20 Part # 320008

Both kits are $379
Anthony.L is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2019, 06:30 PM
  #6063  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (40)
 
Anthony.L's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 2,772
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Jaf1977 View Post
In addition, I notice on some setups they are raising the gearbox by 4mm.
Link to setup sheet with transmission raised 4mm? I have never seen this, only the 2.2mm factory riser combined with either -2mm or -4mm motor plate. I have the 2.2mm riser and -4mm motor plate on mine.
Anthony.L is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2019, 10:58 PM
  #6064  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Surrey, UK
Posts: 429
Default

Jaf1977 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2019, 11:25 PM
  #6065  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Surrey, UK
Posts: 429
Default

Presumably achieving it the same way as this?

https://images.app.goo.gl/2Ln4YHJvotNPoHhr7
Jaf1977 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2019, 05:28 AM
  #6066  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (40)
 
Anthony.L's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 2,772
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Jaf1977 View Post
Presumably achieving it the same way as this?

https://images.app.goo.gl/2Ln4YHJvotNPoHhr7
I would agree, they are using one transmission riser and one suspension riser for 4mm total. I haven't tried it, but did like the 2mm riser and -4mm motor plate.
Anthony.L is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2019, 07:57 AM
  #6067  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 218
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default Steering issues - travel

Hi guys - I need advice again on steering...

I took my time to install a new servo on my '18, and noticed that with a regular plastic servo horn, I wasn't getting full steering travel. Even with the EPA set at 120% L/R on my Futaba, there would be some mechanical travel left.

So I tried using a longer Hudy servo horn I had (#293503), and using the hole on the top. Had to use a 1mm spacer on the steering link in order to clear the upper deck, and the link arm is in an angle. But at least I can get full steering travel now, and I noticed a big improvement on steering at the track - almost too much combined with a new good servo.

The question I had is, what are you guys doing to get full travel? There are some pictures on petit rc from Brunos '19 car, and the link arm seems to be attached to a different spot (picture below). Is that a work around the full travel issue?


m3rcfh is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2019, 08:40 AM
  #6068  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (18)
 
Reno's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Fort Dodge, IA
Posts: 300
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

I have a Protek 170 servo and a stock length alum servo horn. Way more than full steering available. No work around needed.
Get rid of the plastic servo horn for one. Probably not the travel issue but you want an alum horn.
m3rcfh likes this.
Reno is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2019, 02:26 PM
  #6069  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 218
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Reno View Post
I have a Protek 170 servo and a stock length alum servo horn. Way more than full steering available. No work around needed.
Get rid of the plastic servo horn for one. Probably not the travel issue but you want an alum horn.
Would you say this is this a good way to mount it? I got a Protek 160t. Front most position, top hole on servo arm. The other option is servo one hole towards the rear, and second hole on servo arm.. but that one requires the servo to travel a lot more for steering



m3rcfh is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2019, 02:41 PM
  #6070  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Surrey, UK
Posts: 429
Default

How do the alloy parts (in particular roll centre holders) compare to the composite ones? Are they a direct/identical part just out of a different material? Or at they different dimensionally?

I.e if a setup sheet has an alloy part with 2mm spacers, would a composite part with 2mm give the same result? Or would a different amount of shims/spacers be required?
Jaf1977 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2019, 06:28 PM
  #6071  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (40)
 
Anthony.L's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 2,772
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by m3rcfh View Post
The question I had is, what are you guys doing to get full travel?
Hudy 25t servo arm, less than 100% EPA left/right on my Futaba radio.
Anthony.L is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2019, 08:45 AM
  #6072  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (18)
 
Reno's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Fort Dodge, IA
Posts: 300
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by m3rcfh View Post
Would you say this is this a good way to mount it? I got a Protek 160t. Front most position, top hole on servo arm. The other option is servo one hole towards the rear, and second hole on servo arm.. but that one requires the servo to travel a lot more for steering


I have mine in the inner hole. You will have less torque in the outer hole. If you get full throw with the inner hole I would use that.
Reno is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2019, 09:01 AM
  #6073  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 556
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Reno View Post
I have mine in the inner hole. You will have less torque in the outer hole. If you get full throw with the inner hole I would use that.
youíll have more speed in the outer hole. You donít really need much torque for 2wd buggy.
shark2288 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2019, 09:44 AM
  #6074  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (18)
 
Reno's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Fort Dodge, IA
Posts: 300
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by shark2288 View Post


youíll have more speed in the outer hole. You donít really need much torque for 2wd buggy.
True.
I run on high bite carpet tracks and turn down the steering speed on some tracks also. A lot of people I see have too much steering speed anyway.
Reno is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2019, 09:46 AM
  #6075  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (18)
 
Reno's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Fort Dodge, IA
Posts: 300
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

That servo horn bolt doesn't hit your servo case, does it?
Looks pretty long.
Reno is offline  
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service