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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Old 05-04-2019, 06:44 PM   -   Wikipost
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 06-11-2019, 11:01 AM
  #5971  
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Originally Posted by dave-man View Post
The carpet setups on petitrc show guys using the XB4 rear arms? Is this from the XB2 dirt conversion kit(#320900)? What is the advantage of running the XB4 arms instead of the XB2?
itís part of the dirt conversion, but you need other additional parts to get the conversion onto a carpet car. I did it to both my dedicated stock, and mod buggies, and the change as very noticeable. Better corneri speed and rear grip, but not tippy and jump landing. Well worth it if your looking for those specific things.
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Old 06-11-2019, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post

it’s part of the dirt conversion, but you need other additional parts to get the conversion onto a carpet car. I did it to both my dedicated stock, and mod buggies, and the change as very noticeable. Better corneri speed and rear grip, but not tippy and jump landing. Well worth it if your looking for those specific things.
Interesting. Any idea what part numbers I'll need? Do I need the 73mm driveshafts? I did a little research and here is what I found:

XRA323325 - Aluminum Rear/Rear Lower Suspension Holder (Narrow) (10mm Longer)

XRA327310 - XRAY Rear Suspension Pivot Pin (2)

XRA327210 - XRAY XB2 Front Inner Suspension Pivot Pin (2)

XRA363112 - XRAY XB2 Right Rear Suspension Arm (Hard)

XRA363122 - XRAY XB2 Left Rear Suspension Arm (Hard)


Last edited by dave-man; 06-11-2019 at 11:33 AM.
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Old 06-12-2019, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Tbuggy View Post
You should look into the rcrenew drive pin tool https://www.rcrenew.com/tools.html (3rd item from top of page). You can actually take this to the track.
Thanks, that looks easy, I'll machine one up!
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Old 06-16-2019, 06:12 PM
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I took out my xb2 for the first time on Saturday, I have to say out of the box it felt really good. Although the setup was a little off for my track but that will get dailed with track time.

I am also curious about the xb4 arm swap, but that can wait until indoor season.


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Old 06-17-2019, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by dave-man View Post

XRA323325 - Aluminum Rear/Rear Lower Suspension Holder (Narrow) (10mm Longer)

XRA327310 - XRAY Rear Suspension Pivot Pin (2)

XRA327210 - XRAY XB2 Front Inner Suspension Pivot Pin (2)

XRA363112 - XRAY XB2 Right Rear Suspension Arm (Hard)

XRA363122 - XRAY XB2 Left Rear Suspension Arm (Hard)
(UPDATE) Well, I ordered the above parts last week and did the swap mid-race on Saturday. I went just a tad quicker and (as mentioned above) the buggy feels easier to driver and more planted. I have one of the early kits with the adjustable driveshafts so I was ok. If you have a later kit (w/o the adjustable driveshafts) I'm thinking you'll need to purchase the 73mm driveshafts (XRA325326) as well.
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Old 06-18-2019, 08:33 AM
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Did u try the changes on dirt or carpet?
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Old 06-18-2019, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by yodace View Post
Did u try the changes on dirt or carpet?
Sorry - carpet
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Old 06-23-2019, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by dave-man View Post
(UPDATE) Well, I ordered the above parts last week and did the swap mid-race on Saturday. I went just a tad quicker and (as mentioned above) the buggy feels easier to driver and more planted. I have one of the early kits with the adjustable driveshafts so I was ok. If you have a later kit (w/o the adjustable driveshafts) I'm thinking you'll need to purchase the 73mm driveshafts (XRA325326) as well.
thats exactly what the mod is supposed to do. On carpet I gained a ton of corner speed. And no more need for a rear sway bar. And yes if you one of the unlucky guys, youíll need the longer drive shafts. But itís totally worth it. My question now is in my stock car for carpet, how are people mounting those weights. Car is about 40 grams under weight, and I donít want to have to just rely on a battery weight. I changed to a hobbywing xr10 pro stock 90 amp speed control and its tiny.
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Old Yesterday, 12:01 PM
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So I just got a 2019 XB2 carpet. I run on medium sized carpet tracks with high to very high bite. In the past I mainly ran AE with the slipper (tightened way down). Never ran an eliminator. This one has both the slipper and the eliminator with it.
With running 17.5 should I try the eliminator or stick with the slipper?

Thanks...
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Old Yesterday, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Reno View Post
So I just got a 2019 XB2 carpet. I run on medium sized carpet tracks with high to very high bite. In the past I mainly ran AE with the slipper (tightened way down). Never ran an eliminator. This one has both the slipper and the eliminator with it.
With running 17.5 should I try the eliminator or stick with the slipper?

Thanks...
I run the slipper eliminator with zero issues.
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Old Yesterday, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Reno View Post
So I just got a 2019 XB2 carpet. I run on medium sized carpet tracks with high to very high bite. In the past I mainly ran AE with the slipper (tightened way down). Never ran an eliminator. This one has both the slipper and the eliminator with it.
With running 17.5 should I try the eliminator or stick with the slipper?
17.5 and carpet the slipper eliminator is extremely popular option. No slipper equals more punch out of the corners in spec racing, and no slipper equals less rotating mass.
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Old Yesterday, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Reno View Post
So I just got a 2019 XB2 carpet. I run on medium sized carpet tracks with high to very high bite. In the past I mainly ran AE with the slipper (tightened way down). Never ran an eliminator. This one has both the slipper and the eliminator with it.
With running 17.5 should I try the eliminator or stick with the slipper?

Thanks...
eliminator also with plastic opinions. No problems.
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Old Today, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by dave-man View Post
(UPDATE) Well, I ordered the above parts last week and did the swap mid-race on Saturday. I went just a tad quicker and (as mentioned above) the buggy feels easier to driver and more planted. I have one of the early kits with the adjustable driveshafts so I was ok. If you have a later kit (w/o the adjustable driveshafts) I'm thinking you'll need to purchase the 73mm driveshafts (XRA325326) as well.
Originally Posted by dave-man View Post
Interesting. Any idea what part numbers I'll need? Do I need the 73mm driveshafts? I did a little research and here is what I found:

XRA323325 - Aluminum Rear/Rear Lower Suspension Holder (Narrow) (10mm Longer)

XRA327310 - XRAY Rear Suspension Pivot Pin (2)

XRA327210 - XRAY XB2 Front Inner Suspension Pivot Pin (2)

XRA363112 - XRAY XB2 Right Rear Suspension Arm (Hard)

XRA363122 - XRAY XB2 Left Rear Suspension Arm (Hard)

do u need all this parts if u already have a xb219c, to do the dirt arm conversion?
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