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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Old 03-26-2018, 01:24 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 02-08-2019, 02:50 PM
  #5896  
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Originally Posted by IJsbier View Post
I have to rebuild my gear diff, I think it's worn out. There is quite some play when I hold the spur gear and one wheel. Also in corners I'm loosing traction and it takes too much time to build up speed again.
What are the right metal gears? These: 335030 and this would be the right metal diff pin: 335080?
Check your idler gear and see if it's worn
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Old 02-10-2019, 11:04 AM
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So I've been out of rc for quite sometime and recently I have gotten my son into it. He is due for a new chassis and I've always been a fan of Xray quality over the other brands so I was considering picking him up a new XB2 but how is parts support for this vehicle? I have no problem stocking up on parts that aren't available at the tracks he races but it appears a lot of the basic items a guy would want as spares are out of stock even online.
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Old 02-10-2019, 04:09 PM
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Most everything I would recommend as a spare for the XB2 looks to be in stock at RC America. Hard arms all around, upper deck (in medium, looks like Hard is out), towers, C-hubs, steering blocks, rear uprights. Only thing notable as a spare that looks to be out almost everywhere is the rear inner hinge pin.
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Old 02-11-2019, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by BryanJ View Post
Most everything I would recommend as a spare for the XB2 looks to be in stock at RC America. Hard arms all around, upper deck (in medium, looks like Hard is out), towers, C-hubs, steering blocks, rear uprights. Only thing notable as a spare that looks to be out almost everywhere is the rear inner hinge pin.
Guess I wasn't looking at them, instead I was looking at Amain etc. Thanks
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Old 02-11-2019, 07:16 AM
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I am a newb running 2018 xray xb2 just ordered a 19 is there any tips for the build? Thanks
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Old 02-11-2019, 01:21 PM
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Does anyone use a different brand of o-ring in their gear diff? I am not having a lot of luck with the X ray ones.
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Old 02-12-2019, 07:39 AM
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Guess I'm looking for a little clarification here, Wiki post says he measured the same offset between AE wheels and Xray wheels on the rear but then he references spacers, looks like the front's require -.75 regardless so are the rear +3.75's required or not?
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Old 02-12-2019, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by WideOpenThrottle RC View Post
Guess I'm looking for a little clarification here, Wiki post says he measured the same offset between AE wheels and Xray wheels on the rear but then he references spacers, looks like the front's require -.75 regardless so are the rear +3.75's required or not?
The front is straight forward. It is about 1.5 wider than a B6.1. Therefore to match the B6 you would want -.75 hexes. However, on high grip carpet I have found I prefer B6 front wheels with the stock 0 hexes. In theory you should have less steering with the front wider but I found just the opposite. So make sure you try the 0 hexes before spending the money on -.75.

The rear gets complicated very quick. On a 2018 carpet with the stock +4.5 hexes if you run B6 wheels it ends up 2-3mm too narrow vs running xray wheels. Personally I liked this setup and never felt the need for extra spacers - before going to the new hubs.

With the launch of the carpet upgrade kit (for 2018c) the rear hubs have an adjustment that can increase track width. This also applies to the 19c kit. When I measured my 18 with this setup (hubs out as per 19c manual) or the 19c the rear was 2-3mm wider. I still ran B6 wheels and also liked this setup vs xray wheels. The only exception was if the track was not very tight with high speed corners the xray wheels added some stability.

Then we get to the 19 dirt car. This uses the xb4 arms and 3 slot +2.25 hexes. The overall width ends up being 2-3mm narrower than the stock 19 carpet version. I don't run on dirt but know narrower rear usually helps with traction.

Bottom line is try it and compare with your tires and track layout. Things I thought would be worse were often better than I expected.
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Old 02-12-2019, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by E-Mann View Post
The front is straight forward. It is about 1.5 wider than a B6.1. Therefore to match the B6 you would want -.75 hexes. However, on high grip carpet I have found I prefer B6 front wheels with the stock 0 hexes. In theory you should have less steering with the front wider but I found just the opposite. So make sure you try the 0 hexes before spending the money on -.75.

The rear gets complicated very quick. On a 2018 carpet with the stock +4.5 hexes if you run B6 wheels it ends up 2-3mm too narrow vs running xray wheels. Personally I liked this setup and never felt the need for extra spacers - before going to the new hubs.

With the launch of the carpet upgrade kit (for 2018c) the rear hubs have an adjustment that can increase track width. This also applies to the 19c kit. When I measured my 18 with this setup (hubs out as per 19c manual) or the 19c the rear was 2-3mm wider. I still ran B6 wheels and also liked this setup vs xray wheels. The only exception was if the track was not very tight with high speed corners the xray wheels added some stability.

Then we get to the 19 dirt car. This uses the xb4 arms and 3 slot +2.25 hexes. The overall width ends up being 2-3mm narrower than the stock 19 carpet version. I don't run on dirt but know narrower rear usually helps with traction.

Bottom line is try it and compare with your tires and track layout. Things I thought would be worse were often better than I expected.
Good advice, we will try the 19 dirt car out using the stock hexes and go from there.
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Old 02-13-2019, 12:02 AM
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Old 02-13-2019, 03:05 AM
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anybody has setup sheets for the XB2 from the Reedy Race at OCRC?
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Old 02-13-2019, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
anybody has setup sheets for the XB2 from the Reedy Race at OCRC?
XRAY ::: Set-up Sheet - XB2'19

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Old 02-13-2019, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Anthony.L View Post
One thing left out of this setup from Tommy is that we were taping the battery in the chassis and we were running the 19 dirt chassis.
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Old 02-13-2019, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Pville Stig View Post
One thing left out of this setup from Tommy is that we were taping the battery in the chassis and we were running the 19 dirt chassis.
you guys know where I can find Jake Mayo's xb2 setup for OCRC? You know ...that guy who did a multiple front somersault in one of the qualifying heats.

Last edited by Phillip F; 02-13-2019 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 02-14-2019, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
you guys know where I can find Jake Mayo's xb2 setup for OCRC? You know ...that guy who did a multiple front somersault in one of the qualifying heats.
Pretty sure it was the same as Tommy's.
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