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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 01-19-2018, 06:50 AM   #5371
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so if it is really loose use it the slipper?
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Old 01-19-2018, 09:42 AM   #5372
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryan391 View Post
so if it is really loose use it the slipper?
The slipper is like Traction Control on a car, it helps make sure your not just spinning your tires. On very high grip you barely can spin your tires, so no need for a slipper. But the more slippery a track is the more traction control you need (regulating the power to the rear wheels to keep them from spinning).
So on loose surfaces you definitely want a slipper.
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Old 01-19-2018, 10:47 AM   #5373
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yes.. use a slipper..

problem is.. finding the right gearing.. lol.. what i did was use AE spur gears.. and slipper pads.. cut out the center hole bigger..

but with the tekin spec r.. 75t spur is fine.. but to get lower gearing.. you need to do some modifying..
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Old 01-21-2018, 02:24 AM   #5374
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
Depends on the grip level. We did on clay tracks.
Nothing worse than running a clay track and realizing that you've left your slipper eliminator screws at home and are stuck at 75. Watch the guys triple while you are stuck double singling it.....not to mention the lost punch out of corners and run up time gained else where. 😩 I had a ton of fun even still. However that brings me to my next question, as this clay track was a delicacy for me being that I run outdoor dirt mostly. Why does Xray not offer a 72 or 69 with a slipper? I've plunked down that eliminator on a hard packed moist dirt track......not gooood....

Are there any after market spurs that will work? Schelle racing? I havent taken a caliper to any other manufacturers spur to see if I can run theirs.

Any advice?
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Old 01-21-2018, 09:36 PM   #5375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stareyedirish View Post
Nothing worse than running a clay track and realizing that you've left your slipper eliminator screws at home and are stuck at 75. Watch the guys triple while you are stuck double singling it.....not to mention the lost punch out of corners and run up time gained else where. 😩 I had a ton of fun even still. However that brings me to my next question, as this clay track was a delicacy for me being that I run outdoor dirt mostly. Why does Xray not offer a 72 or 69 with a slipper? I've plunked down that eliminator on a hard packed moist dirt track......not gooood....

Are there any after market spurs that will work? Schelle racing? I havent taken a caliper to any other manufacturers spur to see if I can run theirs.

Any advice?
I run Kimbrough/AE Spur Gears with my xray slipper eliminator.

If you want to run a slipper, Schelle and Avid are good ones that do have smaller spur gears available for them.
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Old 01-22-2018, 05:17 AM   #5376
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What combo are you guys running with a 17.5?
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Old 01-22-2018, 06:43 AM   #5377
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Originally Posted by Pville Stig View Post
I run Kimbrough/AE Spur Gears with my xray slipper eliminator.

If you want to run a slipper, Schelle and Avid are good ones that do have smaller spur gears available for them.
Think u need a different top shaft fir the. Schelle. For sure need a different top shaft for avid.
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Old 01-22-2018, 01:10 PM   #5378
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Originally Posted by ryan391 View Post
What combo are you guys running with a 17.5?
what do you mean.. what combo.. like.. gearing?

i use exotek eliminator, with 69/32
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Old 01-22-2018, 04:03 PM   #5379
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Yes gearing. I 69/34 17.5 with eliminator.

Currious what othere are using with slipper. I just ordered a 75t spur.
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Old 01-22-2018, 08:35 PM   #5380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rexracing View Post
The slipper is like Traction Control on a car, it helps make sure your not just spinning your tires. On very high grip you barely can spin your tires, so no need for a slipper. But the more slippery a track is the more traction control you need (regulating the power to the rear wheels to keep them from spinning).
So on loose surfaces you definitely want a slipper.
Doesn't the slipper also help prevent your drivetrain from breaking? When you fly off a jump and you land on very high traction surface and accidentally throttle it before you land, there is a high likelihood that you would strip a gear or two.
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Old 01-23-2018, 05:14 AM   #5381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theclutch View Post
Doesn't the slipper also help prevent your drivetrain from breaking? When you fly off a jump and you land on very high traction surface and accidentally throttle it before you land, there is a high likelihood that you would strip a gear or two.
If running 17.5 no need to worry about it. I run on carpet geared 72/28 with tsr 17.5 or 72/31 with monster max. TSR motor lot better than monster in my opinion but I am running it with slipper eliminator and 17.5 rc plastic pinion and no issues at all with stripping anything out at all.
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Old 01-23-2018, 07:55 AM   #5382
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I have found that the newer stock motors are so powerful that I think I may prefer the slipper even on high bite. My 17.5T almost pops wheelies if I land of a jump on power. I found especially with my 13.5T wheeler that the slipper allows you to get on power quicker off jumps without the car getting squirly. This is on high bite astro/carpet. I just got some new R1 Wurks motors thsat show on the dyno to be a big improvement over my Fantom V2T team (high gauss rotor, ceramic bearings and aluminum screw).
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Old 01-23-2018, 05:58 PM   #5383
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Default Downstop shock shims for smooth carpet track

Curious if anyone can shed some light on the use of shock downstop shims for indoor carpet offroad track. Track I'm running is high grip carpet with medium size jumps. Pros and cons to using and or not using them?
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Old 01-23-2018, 07:17 PM   #5384
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Originally Posted by SlipDiff View Post
Curious if anyone can shed some light on the use of shock downstop shims for indoor carpet offroad track. Track I'm running is high grip carpet with medium size jumps. Pros and cons to using and or not using them?
Also does anyone use the droop blocks to measure their droop on the XB2? Trying to figure out more about shock stroke and where to start
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Old 01-23-2018, 07:26 PM   #5385
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Also does anyone use the droop blocks to measure their droop on the XB2? Trying to figure out more about shock stroke and where to start
I dont use the droop blocks, I use a set of calipers, and measure from the bottom of the shock cartridge (where the o-rings go) to the top of the eyelet. Seems i'm always between 1 1/2 to 2 stroke full turns unscrewed from fully screwed on. This is on high bite clay, and all my cars XB2 '18, XT2 '18, XB4 '18. On carpet I dont think 29.5 to 30mm droop would work. You may just want to screw them on all the way, and go quarter turns unscrewed from there.
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