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Schumacher's new K2 4wd buggy ..!

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Schumacher's new K2 4wd buggy ..!

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Old 08-11-2016, 07:12 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Schumacher's new K2 4wd buggy ..!
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Welcome to the Schumacher K2 Wiki!

Please feel free to add tips and tricks as well as any information that you would feel is beneficial for everyone to know.

Introduction and Pictures Introduction and Pictures

ElectronicsSetupElectronicsSetups

Setup SheetsSetup Sheets

EmulsionShocksEmulsion Shocks

Tony Newland Gear Diff BuildTony Newland Gear Diff Build

Help I Keep Breaking Front Arms

With the K2 Schumacher sarted using an adjustable hub design that required
a relief cut in the arms for the steering knuckle to clear. The easiest solution
until a revised arm is to run the old style arms without the relief cut. Run the
hubs in the High position and set your steering end points down so the steering knuckles don't hit.

SCHU3597
SCHU3407 MED Flex

There is a newer batch of the SCHU3407 wishbones which correct the weakness in the previous front arms.

Suggested upgrades/spares
Strongly suggest to buy 10░ alloy front alloy pivot blocks-U3556 the A & B front plastic pivot blocks-U4798 will break soon.

Have some shock seats spares, alloy v1-U3611, plastic-U3937, alloy v2 (off-road)-U4890

Have some spare shock shafts available U3668 & U3669
MIP pucks an Excellent option!

Misc

Other wheels that fit apart from the Schumacher wheels
Losi 22-4 wheels will fit on the front the rears will work as well!
AE b4, b5 & b6 will fit on the rear
Be sure to lock tight the track screws and rear strap this is a must!!!

AE (12mm) and KYO fronts will work with .5mm spacer - available through AVID


Don't buy the purple titanium turnbuckles as an upgrade there thread is too small and they wander too much. Lunsford Super-duty titanium turnbuckles fit very well they are 3.5mm threads. Get the 1 3/4", 2 1/8" & 57mm lengths. I did not replace the Centre Track Rod.

** When running the Super Duty turnbuckles with the stock captured ball ends, be sure to check for binding in the front steering and camber links after each run - tumbles and glances off the pipes cause them to flex and slightly twist and can bind up the front suspension ... The fix? - simply take a turnbuckle wrench and twist the link back and then forward to it's original positon .. consider doing this as a maintenance step after each run ..

Suggested Gearing

5.5 - indoor high bite clay 83/20 (+/- 1 tooth for layout and conditions etc)
6.5
7.5
8.5
9.5
10.5
13.5 At SRS Arizona I ran 75/28 buggy was quick! RCM lockout worked great!
17.5 - FDR between 5-6 depending on track. E.g. 35/66 down to 30/69 slipper eliminator in use. Different options within the thread. I use B5M exotek eliminator and file it to fit.

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Old 08-02-2016, 12:01 AM
  #616  
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The Durango DEX410 v1 to v4 were very narrow cars too...and Jorn absolutely dominated with it.
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Old 08-02-2016, 05:52 AM
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Yeah I don't think the difference was narrow or wide cars. I think it was shaft/center diff cars vs belt slipper cars.
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Old 08-02-2016, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by psycho02 View Post
Yeah I don't think the difference was narrow or wide cars. I think it was shaft/center diff cars vs belt slipper cars.
Well, belt should be better on dirt. It gives the drivetrain a softer torque curve which should aid traction on dirt. I've shelved my K2 in favor of my Xray and Kyosho cars for now. I'm about to try the carbon chassis and high flex rear top decks to see if I can improve the car. We'll see if it can keep upů..
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Old 08-02-2016, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by scoobyrs25 View Post
Well, belt should be better on dirt. It gives the drivetrain a softer torque curve which should aid traction on dirt. I've shelved my K2 in favor of my Xray and Kyosho cars for now. I'm about to try the carbon chassis and high flex rear top decks to see if I can improve the car. We'll see if it can keep upů..
Normally I would agree but I think the center diff makes a big difference and you can't deny 9 shaft/center diff cars in the main.
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Old 08-02-2016, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by psycho02 View Post
Normally I would agree but I think the center diff makes a big difference and you can't deny 9 shaft/center diff cars in the main.
I don't know if center diff makes a diff...but looking at the xray setups, bruno and martin are on slipper.
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Old 08-02-2016, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by leongkc View Post
I don't know if center diff makes a diff...but looking at the xray setups, bruno and martin are on slipper.
Oh? I haven't looked at the setups yet but like I said 5 X-rays 3 associateds and 1 belt driven car a Yokomo. That's a pretty undeniable trend.
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:29 PM
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I really like the center diff on my Xray. It's too bad. The Schumacher is a work of art and a pleasure to build. I just wish they would change their plastic formula and redesign the a arms. It would be an absolute tank if they did. I've replaced so many parts on my K2 and KF. My Xray and Yokomo have yet to break a single part. Come on Schumacher!!! Are you reading any of this?
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Old 08-03-2016, 03:32 AM
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Originally Posted by psycho02 View Post
Oh? I haven't looked at the setups yet but like I said 5 X-rays 3 associateds and 1 belt driven car a Yokomo. That's a pretty undeniable trend.
All of the cars today are capable of winning, it really comes down to the driver and one mistake costs you the win.
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Old 08-03-2016, 03:55 AM
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Originally Posted by maizer View Post
All of the cars today are capable of winning, it really comes down to the driver and one mistake costs you the win.
agreed.
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Old 08-03-2016, 08:08 AM
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I'm going to just put this out there, and I hope I don't sound like I'm a hater...

I went back and watched some of the lower mains because lets face it, with the pros, they can all make a car fast.

The Xray cars just didn't look good to me, which just shows how impressive their drivers are right now. They had more corner speed than anyone out there, but they were flipping and flopping everywhere. They drove very flat and when they broke loose, it was usually a glorious wreck

The AE cars seemed to just jump better and didn't look as anxious on the track. They looked rather lazy in comparison, which I believe is what you wanted for this type of track.

If you watched the K2, it jumped amazingly well, but it looked super locked in on certain places and it would either traction roll or catch a rut. That causes the driver to back off and not drive as hard as they would like. When you're counting 10th's of a second, that doesn't work (hence the C Mains).

I didn't know which cars were Yoks other than Lee and Tom. They both looked pretty good, just not quite as much corner speed.


Just my 2 cents
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Old 08-03-2016, 09:41 AM
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I've had the Xray, I've had the K2 and I've had the B44 and Barry you're spot on about them. I ran all but the K2 on clay and carpet/Astro (K2 only Astro) and each has their pluses and minuses. Bruno, Jorn, Cragg & Lee - they are all WORLD CLASS drivers. They can make any buggy look good. This is what everyone forgets. I had a hard time getting my K2 to "settle down". It always seemed twitchy compared to others. Now, I'm no set up guru and others can do a better job of it than me and have done better with it, I can live with that. But I consider myself to be a "club level" racer, which to be fair, most of us really are. If I gave you any A Main buggy from that race 99% of us would have a hard time with it. I chose to switch to a buggy which has a "fatter" sweet spot and is easier to drive, in my opinion. I loved my K2 - with exception to the side gears, oh, the whine - even when greased - but it was a piece of art and if I had more time would really liked to have worked on it to get it more the way I liked a buggy to behave - and added ball diffs for outdoors. Ahh well.

Besides - wasn't the K1 kept around to run on clay, the K2 meant for carpet?
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Old 08-03-2016, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by HeavyD99 View Post
I've had the Xray, I've had the K2 and I've had the B44 and Barry you're spot on about them. I ran all but the K2 on clay and carpet/Astro (K2 only Astro) and each has their pluses and minuses. Bruno, Jorn, Cragg & Lee - they are all WORLD CLASS drivers. They can make any buggy look good. This is what everyone forgets. I had a hard time getting my K2 to "settle down". It always seemed twitchy compared to others. Now, I'm no set up guru and others can do a better job of it than me and have done better with it, I can live with that. But I consider myself to be a "club level" racer, which to be fair, most of us really are. If I gave you any A Main buggy from that race 99% of us would have a hard time with it. I chose to switch to a buggy which has a "fatter" sweet spot and is easier to drive, in my opinion. I loved my K2 - with exception to the side gears, oh, the whine - even when greased - but it was a piece of art and if I had more time would really liked to have worked on it to get it more the way I liked a buggy to behave - and added ball diffs for outdoors. Ahh well.

Besides - wasn't the K1 kept around to run on clay, the K2 meant for carpet?
HeavyD99 Have you tried Protek's white grease? Works great! Good point on K1/K2 I'm using K1 front's and rears shock towers for my SRS setup (clay).
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Old 08-03-2016, 05:33 PM
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K2 is gone.....I tried many different greases. I was told once those two gears wear, replace them add a ton of grease and replace the 4 bearings too. Keep it all in line. But I sold it.
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Old 08-03-2016, 06:13 PM
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I got the first K2 to hit the USA, and I have been running my K2 never had a wining noise in the gears on mine same gears all year. My SV2 on the other hand is the loudest buggy I have ever owned. I run mine dry.
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Old 08-03-2016, 11:40 PM
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i use zx1 extra lube, never had a problem with these gears in every schumacher car i ran..... it its also in my maintenance schedule, every time out check and add grease..
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