2LikesBZ-444 Pro from Hobbyking
06-07-2016, 09:09 PM
#136
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...08sec_45g.html
I think it was this one. they used to list the model on the rtr page I thought?
I just sold my 444pro
.....had a handful of track days with multiple runs and the servo worked fine. I don't think it was as fast as its "rated" but for the money I would buy one.
really good buggy for the Money...having some withdrawl....should of used it more to justify keeping it!
I think it was this one. they used to list the model on the rtr page I thought?
I just sold my 444pro
.....had a handful of track days with multiple runs and the servo worked fine. I don't think it was as fast as its "rated" but for the money I would buy one. really good buggy for the Money...having some withdrawl....should of used it more to justify keeping it!
06-07-2016, 10:20 PM
#137
Tech Addict
Thanks! Looks quite alot like a Savöx 1251 
06-08-2016, 07:51 AM
#138
I have several of those servos, in different cars. I think they are based on the Power HD line, inside they look nothing like a Savox 
I think the speed is pretty close to the rating, the torque is really good as well. I use them in Stadium Trucks & buggies both. Have not been disappointed yet.
I think the speed is pretty close to the rating, the torque is really good as well. I use them in Stadium Trucks & buggies both. Have not been disappointed yet.
07-12-2016, 12:29 PM
#139
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (4)
Hey everyone - I'm the one that bought sacmiata's BZ-444 pro. LOVE it. I'm not sure if this was discussed already, but the rear diff gear seems to be pretty fragile.
I took the car to our local off-road track (first time I've gone off-roading in 27 years) - car jumped well, nice and even - smooth landings, save for the times when I got overzealous and slapped the chassis a few times. In any case, after a bit, I noticed some ticking and discovered that the rear 16t diff gear was missing a tooth. No problem - I found a spare on HobbyKing's site (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...o%20dif%20gear). I'm hoping this will be a bit more sturdy, since it appears to be a machined gear - the one in the car looked like it was cast or maybe there was a defect in the metal. In any case, has anyone found any alternative/more durable gears for this car?
I've searched out Team-C parts, but they appear to be really expensive (a bit too much for an uneducated guess)...just curious what everyone else's experience has been.
I took the car to our local off-road track (first time I've gone off-roading in 27 years) - car jumped well, nice and even - smooth landings, save for the times when I got overzealous and slapped the chassis a few times. In any case, after a bit, I noticed some ticking and discovered that the rear 16t diff gear was missing a tooth. No problem - I found a spare on HobbyKing's site (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...o%20dif%20gear). I'm hoping this will be a bit more sturdy, since it appears to be a machined gear - the one in the car looked like it was cast or maybe there was a defect in the metal. In any case, has anyone found any alternative/more durable gears for this car?
I've searched out Team-C parts, but they appear to be really expensive (a bit too much for an uneducated guess)...just curious what everyone else's experience has been.
07-12-2016, 01:47 PM
#140
Tech Addict
iTrader: (16)
Hey everyone - I'm the one that bought sacmiata's BZ-444 pro. LOVE it. I'm not sure if this was discussed already, but the rear diff gear seems to be pretty fragile.
I took the car to our local off-road track (first time I've gone off-roading in 27 years) - car jumped well, nice and even - smooth landings, save for the times when I got overzealous and slapped the chassis a few times. In any case, after a bit, I noticed some ticking and discovered that the rear 16t diff gear was missing a tooth. No problem - I found a spare on HobbyKing's site (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...o%20dif%20gear). I'm hoping this will be a bit more sturdy, since it appears to be a machined gear - the one in the car looked like it was cast or maybe there was a defect in the metal. In any case, has anyone found any alternative/more durable gears for this car?
I've searched out Team-C parts, but they appear to be really expensive (a bit too much for an uneducated guess)...just curious what everyone else's experience has been.
I took the car to our local off-road track (first time I've gone off-roading in 27 years) - car jumped well, nice and even - smooth landings, save for the times when I got overzealous and slapped the chassis a few times. In any case, after a bit, I noticed some ticking and discovered that the rear 16t diff gear was missing a tooth. No problem - I found a spare on HobbyKing's site (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...o%20dif%20gear). I'm hoping this will be a bit more sturdy, since it appears to be a machined gear - the one in the car looked like it was cast or maybe there was a defect in the metal. In any case, has anyone found any alternative/more durable gears for this car?
I've searched out Team-C parts, but they appear to be really expensive (a bit too much for an uneducated guess)...just curious what everyone else's experience has been.
07-12-2016, 02:00 PM
#141
(http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...o%20dif%20gear).
FYI - I hear this makes it indestructible - but you will need to by the other CVD to go along with it. You probably could do the front and rear separate. The CVD's that it has in it currently dont work with the optional machined gear.
The regular gear is back in stock - i would probably just buy 2 or three of them and try to use to shim it alittle tight. How I did the front was I shimmed just alittle to tight - then i broke it in on the bench for about 20 minutes - broke it in slow on my driveway - then took it apart and it was just about as perfect as I have been able to get one. You should probably check the gears every couple track days. From what I understand the stock gears are ok as long as you keep up on them.
I wanted to buy 3 or more regular gears when I got my spares but hobbyking was out at the time. TEAM C or AISATEES will have the same gears as well. Hobbyking pricing was always the best.
I did break the front (running the slipper to tight and landing with maybe to much trigger)....yeah that buggy really needed to be stiffened up some more!
Good to hear that your getting some use out of it - hopefully you got through a few battery packs before it the gears gave way.
FYI - I hear this makes it indestructible - but you will need to by the other CVD to go along with it. You probably could do the front and rear separate. The CVD's that it has in it currently dont work with the optional machined gear.
The regular gear is back in stock - i would probably just buy 2 or three of them and try to use to shim it alittle tight. How I did the front was I shimmed just alittle to tight - then i broke it in on the bench for about 20 minutes - broke it in slow on my driveway - then took it apart and it was just about as perfect as I have been able to get one. You should probably check the gears every couple track days. From what I understand the stock gears are ok as long as you keep up on them.
I wanted to buy 3 or more regular gears when I got my spares but hobbyking was out at the time. TEAM C or AISATEES will have the same gears as well. Hobbyking pricing was always the best.
I did break the front (running the slipper to tight and landing with maybe to much trigger)....yeah that buggy really needed to be stiffened up some more!
Good to hear that your getting some use out of it - hopefully you got through a few battery packs before it the gears gave way.
Last edited by sacmiata; 07-12-2016 at 02:10 PM.
07-12-2016, 08:36 PM
#142
I took the car to our local off-road track (first time I've gone off-roading in 27 years) - car jumped well, nice and even - smooth landings, save for the times when I got overzealous and slapped the chassis a few times. In any case, after a bit, I noticed some ticking and discovered that the rear 16t diff gear was missing a tooth. No problem - I found a spare on HobbyKing's site (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...o%20dif%20gear). I'm hoping this will be a bit more sturdy, since it appears to be a machined gear - the one in the car looked like it was cast or maybe there was a defect in the metal. In any case, has anyone found any alternative/more durable gears for this car?.
07-12-2016, 08:37 PM
#143
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (4)
argh - that's the one that I picked up. So, I'm not sure which CVD I should get, there seems to be a few with different measurements. Do you have an idea what goes with that steel gear?
EDIT: Ah, I see the links for the recommended CVDs...derp.
Thanks again!
EDIT: Ah, I see the links for the recommended CVDs...derp.
Thanks again!
07-13-2016, 06:05 AM
#144
EuroRC
TS413 x2
TU0447 83mm CVD
HobbyKing
CVD 62mm
I was not too sure on the CVD's and if the rear gear box difference between the models would matter, but these seemed to work for me.
07-16-2016, 07:36 PM
#146
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (4)
Alright - I have the steel diff gear and a rear 62mm CVD on the way!
When I get a few more $$, I'll probably pony up for the parts for the front as well.
Gotta say, this car is fantastic, with a few upgrades, I think she'll handle as well as the other mainstream wheelers.
When I get a few more $$, I'll probably pony up for the parts for the front as well.
Gotta say, this car is fantastic, with a few upgrades, I think she'll handle as well as the other mainstream wheelers.
07-17-2016, 07:35 PM
#147
So, I took my BZ-444.3 (my 44.3 shorty conversion copy) out to a bigger race. The 2016 Hot Rod Hobbies Shootout. I ran it in 13.5 4wd buggy.
I had a few troubles in qualifying (mostly surrounding my Frankenstein 12mm hex conversion, since I didn't get any 14mm wheels). Threadlock issues (please, please, please use threadlock on the screws that hold the slipper cups on).
For the main, I qualified 7th in the B main (last). After I sorted out the 12mm hex conversion (using the Team C 12mm hexes), I put a few test laps on the car. Not having a clue what to gear the car, I ran 29/75. I think it is too much to pull that tall of a gear, motor came off @ 180+ after the main. I could feel the motor fade the last minute or so of the race. I was in contention for the bump up spots, but motor fade and mental fade (more the 2nd than the first) put me out of the hunt. So I just concentrated on turning good laps and hitting my lines.
At the end of the day....3rd in the B main!
I had a few troubles in qualifying (mostly surrounding my Frankenstein 12mm hex conversion, since I didn't get any 14mm wheels). Threadlock issues (please, please, please use threadlock on the screws that hold the slipper cups on).
For the main, I qualified 7th in the B main (last). After I sorted out the 12mm hex conversion (using the Team C 12mm hexes), I put a few test laps on the car. Not having a clue what to gear the car, I ran 29/75. I think it is too much to pull that tall of a gear, motor came off @ 180+ after the main. I could feel the motor fade the last minute or so of the race. I was in contention for the bump up spots, but motor fade and mental fade (more the 2nd than the first) put me out of the hunt. So I just concentrated on turning good laps and hitting my lines.
At the end of the day....3rd in the B main!
07-17-2016, 07:43 PM
#148
So now, onto a decent 12mm hex conversion, for the ability to use everyday 12mm wheels that you can find in many shops.
12mm hexes (Team C, I will find the part # and post up)
5mm axles/CVD shims
TLR 12mm rear wheels & front 22-4 wheels
The front is straight forward, pull the pin, pull the 14mm hex off, slide the 12mm hex on and replace the pin. Slide on your 22-4 front wheels on and tighten the nut.
The rear is a touch different. I slid the pin out, pulled the 14mm hex off. I put a few shims to take up the slack from the bearing to the pin, slide the new 12mm hex on **pin slot down**, Slide on your 22-4 or B5M (or similar) rear wheels and go to town.
12mm hexes (Team C, I will find the part # and post up)
5mm axles/CVD shims
TLR 12mm rear wheels & front 22-4 wheels
The front is straight forward, pull the pin, pull the 14mm hex off, slide the 12mm hex on and replace the pin. Slide on your 22-4 front wheels on and tighten the nut.
The rear is a touch different. I slid the pin out, pulled the 14mm hex off. I put a few shims to take up the slack from the bearing to the pin, slide the new 12mm hex on **pin slot down**, Slide on your 22-4 or B5M (or similar) rear wheels and go to town.