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Old 02-15-2019, 07:18 AM
  #1336  
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I used a xray idler in mine....bearing od was smaller but the id was the same worked like a charm and didnt need to change gearing
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Old 02-15-2019, 09:00 AM
  #1337  
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Originally Posted by JRSlash
Mine is getting a little loud now and looked into putting this b5m idler but couldn't find it. All I could find was the hardened steel one....
AE91429 seems to be discontinued, but may be still available e.g. on ebay. IIRC the original Yokomo YZ2/YZ-4 idler #Z2-503I dimensions are identical.
By the way, the number of teeth on an idler gear does not matter at all. As long as the topshaft and diff gear are the same, the transmission's internal gear ratio will remain the same. Just take a look at AE's laydown and layback transmissions, they are both 2.6:1 and use the same internals except for the idler gear.
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Old 02-15-2019, 05:50 PM
  #1338  
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I read that the stock idler gear is prone to breaking. Have you guys had the same experience?
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Old 02-17-2019, 10:27 AM
  #1339  
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Originally Posted by Lukeman269
I read that the stock idler gear is prone to breaking. Have you guys had the same experience?
yep it's the material it's made of i think. i never bothered using mine it sits in the box as a backup spare for the unlikely event of needing it. I have just picked up a spares car which was std internals and chewed up idler in place still so confirmed for me that it is a 'thing' stripping the std one.

Last edited by chrisimp; 02-17-2019 at 10:41 AM.
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Old 02-17-2019, 12:39 PM
  #1340  
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Default Idler gear

Stay away from the aluminum idler gears. They will sharpen the teeth eventually stripping the diff gear.
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Old 02-17-2019, 12:41 PM
  #1341  
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Originally Posted by HBracingRy
Stay away from the aluminum idler gears. They will sharpen the teeth eventually stripping the diff gear.
I use the sepernt idle gear. Comes with 2 in a pack. I run my cars hard and they still look new.
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Old 02-18-2019, 11:06 AM
  #1342  
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Originally Posted by HBracingRy
I use the sepernt idle gear. Comes with 2 in a pack. I run my cars hard and they still look new.
Are they a drop in fit or do you have to mod them or run different bearings or ect?
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Old 02-18-2019, 11:38 AM
  #1343  
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Originally Posted by HBracingRy
I use the sepernt idle gear. Comes with 2 in a pack. I run my cars hard and they still look new.
Could you post a link or the part number please?
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Old 02-19-2019, 06:15 AM
  #1344  
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I just installed a Robinson racing steel idler for the b5 car. The gear is 1mm wider which I shaved the molded shims of the gear case and shimmed the idler as needed. Transmission is super smooth and quiet now. Note that the RR idler uses different bearings that are the same size as the top shaft.
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Old 02-19-2019, 01:14 PM
  #1345  
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Default Serpent srx mh 3 gear

Originally Posted by Lukeman269
Could you post a link or the part number please?
Serpent # SER500525. You will need new bearings. There the same size as a nitro clutch bell if you have any spares. I think there 5x10x4mm.
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Old 05-07-2019, 12:20 AM
  #1346  
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I'm trying to get more mid corner and under acceleration steering. What have you guys had luck with. I've tried shocks and alignment mods, and some weight on the front end. Anyone able to get this thing to swing around any better?
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Old 05-08-2019, 05:08 AM
  #1347  
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Never had issues with swinging around the center point. What surface are you on? how is slow speed turning, can you afford to remove grip from the rear to allow the rotation to be increased (harder springs, roll bar 1.4, stiffer oil to stop the lean, top link position/washer spacing) battery inline or sideways. I mainly run on high grip and have to run a front roll bar to limit the amount of turn sometimes.

One thing at a time, each round and see what effect the change made, one thing Ive found about the d216 is the smallest change can make a great difference so easy to go to far one way or the other.

Another thing I found felt nice was to increase the width/track of the front by adding 2mm spacers to the wishbone mounting points on the bulkhead. also I run 20k diff oil pretty much everywhere now!.... Ball diff might be in for the weekend if it arrives in time for me to build it so that will be interesting to see the changes!


Edit: I also run the std chassis now with brace washers turned upside down and a b6.1D waterfall/chassis brace on the transmission which has locked down the rear end so not asmuch flex there allowing the suspension at the rear to do the work and the front flexes more for the front end traction etc

Chris

Last edited by chrisimp; 05-08-2019 at 05:18 AM.
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Old 05-08-2019, 01:20 PM
  #1348  
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Originally Posted by chrisimp
Never had issues with swinging around the center point. What surface are you on? how is slow speed turning, can you afford to remove grip from the rear to allow the rotation to be increased (harder springs, roll bar 1.4, stiffer oil to stop the lean, top link position/washer spacing) battery inline or sideways. I mainly run on high grip and have to run a front roll bar to limit the amount of turn sometimes.

One thing at a time, each round and see what effect the change made, one thing Ive found about the d216 is the smallest change can make a great difference so easy to go to far one way or the other.

Another thing I found felt nice was to increase the width/track of the front by adding 2mm spacers to the wishbone mounting points on the bulkhead. also I run 20k diff oil pretty much everywhere now!.... Ball diff might be in for the weekend if it arrives in time for me to build it so that will be interesting to see the changes!


Edit: I also run the std chassis now with brace washers turned upside down and a b6.1D waterfall/chassis brace on the transmission which has locked down the rear end so not asmuch flex there allowing the suspension at the rear to do the work and the front flexes more for the front end traction etc

Chris
Thanks for the input, Chris.
I'm on med to high traction clay. I'm now noticing that my vrp pistons have less blow by than stock and I need to do thinner oil. I'm using 15k in the diff IIRC, but am gonna put some heavier stuff in, that's helping swing the back out and around under power. I'm also gonna add a little more front droop, that might help mid corner, on power push.

I'm on the hb alum chassis. I also have the exotek battery bracket arm.

Cg changed with arms are pretty much my next move. May add a little more camber in the rear, too.
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Old 05-13-2019, 05:30 PM
  #1349  
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I do enjoy the ball diff. I would recommend it if you have some extra cash. Feels really locked in on med/high bite clay. I have used it outdoors on loose dirt as well with good results. Feels like it has better forward bite with the ball diff.
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Old 05-29-2019, 05:04 AM
  #1350  
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Hi guys,

Just bought a lightly used D216, I am a hobbyist at best. Will do the odd run indoor and outdoor and just wondering what are the most recommended upgrades and spare parts to keep on hand?

Previous owner got a great paint job. I'll probably right the shocks despite being aware of advantages. I'm an aesthetics over function kind of guy.

Cheers for any info and tips.
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