22LikesTekno RC EB48.3 Thread
03-13-2017, 12:03 AM - Wikipost
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10-13-2015, 07:42 PM
#481
Tech Regular
All I need to go .2 steering is the uprights and hubs? I love a ton of steering lol. That won't mess with the .3 suspension or anything rite? Just provide more steering
10-13-2015, 09:34 PM
#483
Tech Adept
iTrader: (27)
Shortening the front link makes the car more stable. Sweepers, off-power, on power, etc. It will land better as well. We have been moving to a shorter front link lately and the results have been great.
Theoretically it gives you less initial steering but more on power steering. What we have found is less twitch and the rear follows the front better around and out of corners.
Start with the front link short (shortest on hub, shortest on tower, middle on tower). Tune the steering with the rear end:
thicker sway bar (more steering everywhere)
more rear toe (more entry steering)
less rear toe (more stability entering, but more steering out of the corner)
Theoretically it gives you less initial steering but more on power steering. What we have found is less twitch and the rear follows the front better around and out of corners.
Start with the front link short (shortest on hub, shortest on tower, middle on tower). Tune the steering with the rear end:
thicker sway bar (more steering everywhere)
more rear toe (more entry steering)
less rear toe (more stability entering, but more steering out of the corner)
10-14-2015, 07:09 AM
#486
Those looking to save weight run the lesser capacity batteries. Typically the 6500 mAh packs are used with the ET-48 eTruggy.
I run 5300 mAh packs in both my buggy and truggy running the 1900kv buggy motor in each. Can easily hit 18+ minute practice times in each.
http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-30c-5300-4s1p.html
10-14-2015, 11:16 AM
#490
10-14-2015, 12:07 PM
#492
. Something to keep in mind though about steering...The design of the EB/NB line of vehicles has more steering throw than any other vehicle on the market. Probably by a good 5 or more degrees. At first we thought this was a huge advantage. Lately, through constant testing, we have found the cars are faster and waaaaay more consistent with less steering throw.
So if you're not using the built in steering stops, you're doing yourself a huge disservice. We are using 4 steering limiter washers on the EB/NB and the results have been awesome. Yes, the turning radius is reduced, but lap times and consistency have proven this is a non-factor.
Here's what goes wrong with too much steering throw:
Rear end washes out when landing jumps
Rear end continues to come around exiting corners
Feels like you are struggling for traction at times
Bump handling is unpredictable
Initial steering is extremely twitchy
And other issues to be sure
Here's what's going on. The last 5+ degrees of steering throw happen very quickly and the servo has very very little leverage on the wheels at full throw. This causes the inside wheel to act erratically and get tossed left/right at the whims of the track surface. Without a positive stop there, the inside wheel is going crazy and causing inconsistencies with the handling. The CV's can accommodate this extreme working angle, but there is more chatter which creates further issues.
Even if you just limit your EPA, the inside wheel is still free to move too far when the conditions arise. So install the washers first, then reset your EPA to match.
There are literally dozens of other adjustments that will result in more steering if desired (shocks, springs, ride height, sway bars, diffs, camber links, toe, etc.). By first limiting the throw, you can focus on creating more 'setup steering'. Think of setup steering as being more consistent vs. mechanical steering (i.e. throw).
Additionally, you won't be fighting the car so you will be spending less time tuning something bad out and more time tuning good stuff in.
10-14-2015, 01:05 PM
#494
That's correct. And yes we know people like lots of steering. Our pro drivers tell us this all the time . Something to keep in mind though about steering...
The design of the EB/NB line of vehicles has more steering throw than any other vehicle on the market. Probably by a good 5 or more degrees. At first we thought this was a huge advantage. Lately, through constant testing, we have found the cars are faster and waaaaay more consistent with less steering throw.
So if you're not using the built in steering stops, you're doing yourself a huge disservice. We are using 4 steering limiter washers on the EB/NB and the results have been awesome. Yes, the turning radius is reduced, but lap times and consistency have proven this is a non-factor.
Here's what goes wrong with too much steering throw:
Rear end washes out when landing jumps
Rear end continues to come around exiting corners
Feels like you are struggling for traction at times
Bump handling is unpredictable
Initial steering is extremely twitchy
And other issues to be sure
Here's what's going on. The last 5+ degrees of steering throw happen very quickly and the servo has very very little leverage on the wheels at full throw. This causes the inside wheel to act erratically and get tossed left/right at the whims of the track surface. Without a positive stop there, the inside wheel is going crazy and causing inconsistencies with the handling. The CV's can accommodate this extreme working angle, but there is more chatter which creates further issues.
Even if you just limit your EPA, the inside wheel is still free to move too far when the conditions arise. So install the washers first, then reset your EPA to match.
There are literally dozens of other adjustments that will result in more steering if desired (shocks, springs, ride height, sway bars, diffs, camber links, toe, etc.). By first limiting the throw, you can focus on creating more 'setup steering'. Think of setup steering as being more consistent vs. mechanical steering (i.e. throw).
Additionally, you won't be fighting the car so you will be spending less time tuning something bad out and more time tuning good stuff in.
. Something to keep in mind though about steering...The design of the EB/NB line of vehicles has more steering throw than any other vehicle on the market. Probably by a good 5 or more degrees. At first we thought this was a huge advantage. Lately, through constant testing, we have found the cars are faster and waaaaay more consistent with less steering throw.
So if you're not using the built in steering stops, you're doing yourself a huge disservice. We are using 4 steering limiter washers on the EB/NB and the results have been awesome. Yes, the turning radius is reduced, but lap times and consistency have proven this is a non-factor.
Here's what goes wrong with too much steering throw:
Rear end washes out when landing jumps
Rear end continues to come around exiting corners
Feels like you are struggling for traction at times
Bump handling is unpredictable
Initial steering is extremely twitchy
And other issues to be sure
Here's what's going on. The last 5+ degrees of steering throw happen very quickly and the servo has very very little leverage on the wheels at full throw. This causes the inside wheel to act erratically and get tossed left/right at the whims of the track surface. Without a positive stop there, the inside wheel is going crazy and causing inconsistencies with the handling. The CV's can accommodate this extreme working angle, but there is more chatter which creates further issues.
Even if you just limit your EPA, the inside wheel is still free to move too far when the conditions arise. So install the washers first, then reset your EPA to match.
There are literally dozens of other adjustments that will result in more steering if desired (shocks, springs, ride height, sway bars, diffs, camber links, toe, etc.). By first limiting the throw, you can focus on creating more 'setup steering'. Think of setup steering as being more consistent vs. mechanical steering (i.e. throw).
Additionally, you won't be fighting the car so you will be spending less time tuning something bad out and more time tuning good stuff in.
Not positive on the Losi oil, but for Associated its around 35/40. Hopefully that helps.
10-14-2015, 02:38 PM
#495
I have a question directly to Tekno RC or maybe someone could help.
I built my buggy with stock fluids: 5000/5000/5000 for the diffs and 400/450 with the shocks.
In the future these fluids will wear, I would also like to test some different settings. Are these stock oils cts, csp, "Tekno WT" or something else? I have a lot of Losi and AE oils on hand, found a conversion chart but not sure where is a starting point I am at?
I built my buggy with stock fluids: 5000/5000/5000 for the diffs and 400/450 with the shocks.
In the future these fluids will wear, I would also like to test some different settings. Are these stock oils cts, csp, "Tekno WT" or something else? I have a lot of Losi and AE oils on hand, found a conversion chart but not sure where is a starting point I am at?