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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 03-26-2016, 07:11 AM   #1381
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So far I've been running soft enduros on practice days and there wear is excellent, consistent handling, but the grid irons definitely have more overall bite when in the line. Still pretty new myself but those have been working pretty well. Want to try some triple Dees next
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Old 03-26-2016, 07:24 PM   #1382
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What would make the car bounce all over the place at the very end of the long straights ?
Basically the car is fine everywhere but at the last week end's race at the end of the straight the car would start bouncing violently until it fliped over. No drag brake was used.
The only way to keep it on it's 4 wheels was to gently ease off the throttle at the end and coast quite a while before using the brake for the first turn.
Any ideas ?
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Old 03-26-2016, 09:04 PM   #1383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shannow View Post
What would make the car bounce all over the place at the very end of the long straights ?
Basically the car is fine everywhere but at the last week end's race at the end of the straight the car would start bouncing violently until it fliped over. No drag brake was used.
The only way to keep it on it's 4 wheels was to gently ease off the throttle at the end and coast quite a while before using the brake for the first turn.
Any ideas ?
Was the track surface chewed up? One of the first place a track will start to get blown out is the braking zone at the end of a long straight.
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Old 03-26-2016, 10:39 PM   #1384
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You can also try reducing rear droop a little so not as much weight transfers to the front under braking. If it acted like drag brake though, check for binding someplace in the driveline like a worn CVD or a blown bearing or something rubbing.
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Old 03-27-2016, 04:17 AM   #1385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
Was the track surface chewed up? One of the first place a track will start to get blown out is the braking zone at the end of a long straight.
Yes it was. Others had issue too but not everybody it seemed.
One odd thing about the track was the fact that the straight was uphill all the way except the last third. So if you were flat out the car, especially the rear, would lift quite a bit and of course forget about touching the brakes because the car would instantly flip over.
I'll try the idea of reducing rear droop a little, thanks .

Btw I was at about 25mm ride height front and rear. I had standard pistons and oils according to temps (20wt front 25wt rear for a 5c/40F temp)
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Last edited by shannow; 03-27-2016 at 04:29 AM.
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Old 03-27-2016, 08:11 AM   #1386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shannow View Post
Yes it was. Others had issue too but not everybody it seemed.
One odd thing about the track was the fact that the straight was uphill all the way except the last third. So if you were flat out the car, especially the rear, would lift quite a bit and of course forget about touching the brakes because the car would instantly flip over.
I'll try the idea of reducing rear droop a little, thanks .

Btw I was at about 25mm ride height front and rear. I had standard pistons and oils according to temps (20wt front 25wt rear for a 5c/40F temp)
27mm is about where most are running. Depending on the oil that is pretty light, even if it is a little chilly out. 425 front and 450 is the sweet spot roughly for most of the setups and 20/25 is roughly 200/300. You might want to post the rest of your setup and a picture of the track, because something doesn't quite sound right.
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Old 03-27-2016, 08:37 AM   #1387
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Hello, has anyone else has any issues with the hex pins falling out? This has happened to me twice and the second time it had been thread locked into place. If anyone had a suggestion on how to stop this from reoccurring that would be appreciated.

Thanks Alex
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Old 03-27-2016, 03:46 PM   #1388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Millsy97 View Post
Hello, has anyone else has any issues with the hex pins falling out? This has happened to me twice and the second time it had been thread locked into place. If anyone had a suggestion on how to stop this from reoccurring that would be appreciated.

Thanks Alex
I'm assuming you are talking about the pins that hold the wheel hexes in place. When you install the hexes, do you have the flat spot on the pin facing the grub screw?
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Old 03-28-2016, 10:58 AM   #1389
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I just sold my SCT410.3 roller. I've got one of these EB48.3 kits on the way.

I considered the SL. But the EB48.3 was hard to beat brand new on tower for $479.99

I'm going to run my RX8 Gen2 in it, with a Tekin Pro4 4600KV on 2S until I get my 1/8 buggy motor and 4S packs.

You guys think the Pro4 on 2S will move the EB48.3 around OK? It was a lightning bolt in the SCT.3 truck with a 17T pinion lol.

Also, do these EB48.3 kits include the cnc shock pack and the cnc conical pistons stock in the box?

Or do I need to pick some more up.
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Old 03-28-2016, 11:26 AM   #1390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tps3443 View Post
I just sold my SCT410.3 roller. I've got one of these EB48.3 kits on the way.

I considered the SL. But the EB48.3 was hard to beat brand new on tower for $479.99

I'm going to run my RX8 Gen2 in it, with a Tekin Pro4 4600KV on 2S until I get my 1/8 buggy motor and 4S packs.

You guys think the Pro4 on 2S will move the EB48.3 around OK? It was a lightning bolt in the SCT.3 truck with a 17T pinion lol.

Also, do these EB48.3 kits include the cnc shock pack and the cnc conical pistons stock in the box?

Or do I need to pick some more up.
The kit has the cnc pistons, but does not have the delrin shock bushings.
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Old 03-28-2016, 11:38 AM   #1391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tps3443 View Post
You guys think the Pro4 on 2S will move the EB48.3 around OK? It was a lightning bolt in the SCT.3 truck with a 17T pinion lol.
Never seen it done, but doesn't mean it can't be done. The buggy is heavier so I will be curious to see how it goes. I prob would start w/16t tho. Post back your results.
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Old 03-28-2016, 11:59 AM   #1392
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Quote:
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Never seen it done, but doesn't mean it can't be done. The buggy is heavier so I will be curious to see how it goes. I prob would start w/16t tho. Post back your results.
The EB48SL seems to do OK.

I guess we will see. I've had the SCT.3 full of about a pound of dirt and it was still fast lol, considering a short course body acts like a fender lol. That's another reason I was looking to get away from SCT I spent more time cleaning, then running.

My Cousin runs a MP9e TKI3 and it's always clean.

I looked hard, and I don't think there is a better buggy for the money on the market. Massive shock towers.

No offense against SCT trucks, I'm sure when a 410.5 comes out I'll be buying lol. 48.5 to!

But for now, I'm excited to build a new kit!

Any suggestions before I build it?? The only part that ever broke on my SCT.3 was the stock plastic V2 A brace.

Kits usually take me 20 hours continuous work, or 3 days spread apart.
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Old 03-29-2016, 12:21 AM   #1393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caffeine357 View Post
awesome, thanks for the suggestions. Im sure I will have more questions throughout the build. thanks all
You want the delrin shock cartridge inserts like Ryan Lutz installs in his How-to videos.. followed by the white delrin conical pistons.
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Old 03-29-2016, 02:05 AM   #1394
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my new shock pistons
compression 4 hole 1.5 mm, the rebound 4x1,5+4x1,3 mm
here I think to buy a new buggy version 3, or 4 to wait...
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Old 03-29-2016, 06:05 AM   #1395
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tps3443 View Post
The EB48SL seems to do OK.

Any suggestions before I build it?? The only part that ever broke on my SCT.3 was the stock plastic V2 A brace.
The SL is basically a converted SCT (buggy mudguards and body mounts, etc.). I think the EB is a different beast but, like I said, idk - it very well may work. May not hurt to try. You might ask Tekno what they think. Maybe someone else here has some insight on the 2S and 4600kv motor.

Me personally...
minimum, I would get the aluminum servo horn.

I would then consider the delrin shock cartidges and alum diff cross pins. Maybe the alum center diff mount.

Alot of us are starting with Joe Bornhorst's wicked weekend NB48.3 setup. I believe that calls for different springs, sway bars and shock oil (I'm currently running the kit shock oils 400f/450r - still cool temps here).
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