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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 11-28-2015, 03:44 PM   #781
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Originally Posted by turtle189 View Post
They did have issues with bad outdrives earlier in the year they will replace them with pics and a proof of sale.
thanks for the info.
I like tekno anyway !
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Old 11-28-2015, 04:13 PM   #782
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For the battery connectors, count me as an XT90 convert as well. I'm switching over batches of batteries and a vehicle at a time, but I like them for everything except perhaps small stock buggy where lightweight everything matters. I think if I ever get back into stock racing I'll either stick with inboard 4mm bullets or use XT60s. I've used deans, but also agree they're more of a pain to solder than it should be, even though I don't generally have issues with them.

The XT60s are nice, but are a 3.5mm bullet connection, which I don't feel comfortable pulling the amp load of 2s 4wd SC or eBuggy Lite through. The EC3 and EC5 connectors are named after the size of their bullets. The XT90 has the largest mating surface with 5.5mm bullet connections. The XT90 is SUPER EASY to solder, even when using 8 and 10 gauge wire instead of just 12. They stay together well, but have good grip points so still aren't hard to pull apart, and are reasonably inexpensive as well.
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Old 11-28-2015, 05:14 PM   #783
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For the battery connectors, count me as an XT90 convert as well. I'm switching over batches of batteries and a vehicle at a time, but I like them for everything except perhaps small stock buggy where lightweight everything matters. I think if I ever get back into stock racing I'll either stick with inboard 4mm bullets or use XT60s. I've used deans, but also agree they're more of a pain to solder than it should be, even though I don't generally have issues with them.

The XT60s are nice, but are a 3.5mm bullet connection, which I don't feel comfortable pulling the amp load of 2s 4wd SC or eBuggy Lite through. The EC3 and EC5 connectors are named after the size of their bullets. The XT90 has the largest mating surface with 5.5mm bullet connections. The XT90 is SUPER EASY to solder, even when using 8 and 10 gauge wire instead of just 12. They stay together well, but have good grip points so still aren't hard to pull apart, and are reasonably inexpensive as well.
interesting. I use hxt 4mm connectors. hobbyking rate them 90 amps and xt90 are rated 93 amps.
Even the hxt are only 4mm, they are longer. that's what help them to get the same rating

but i like the fact that xts are easy to solder.

I didn't notice that hxt 4mm get warmer but I think I need connectors that can handle 120 amps without any resistance. any idea ?
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Old 11-28-2015, 07:07 PM   #784
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Default Transponder

Has anyone tried relocating the transponder on the EB (and SCT) further forward? Has anybody had a photo finish where the location of the transponder matters?
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Old 11-28-2015, 07:09 PM   #785
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If by photo finish you mean a movie, yes I have had several of those. .
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Old 11-28-2015, 07:38 PM   #786
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Also once I hit the throttle, the ESC fan stops working? Any ideas? Tekin Gen2 and Futaba 3pm

edit: found some info, fan only turns on at 130 and above

derp

Last edited by JOELD; 11-28-2015 at 10:02 PM.
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Old 11-28-2015, 09:51 PM   #787
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
Has anyone tried relocating the transponder on the EB (and SCT) further forward? Has anybody had a photo finish where the location of the transponder matters?
Thomas runs his transponder (the newer small ones) attached to the front side of the servo mount.

I've had a finish where I beat Danny even though his truggy crossed the line first. Basically my front wheels were between his front and rear. This was at the first ROAR electric Nats at Revelation Raceway. I beat him by less than .1 seconds simply because my transponder was up front and his was in back. Ah, what a glorious day .

EDIT- Found it! Beat him by .01

-- TRUCK OPEN EXPERT - A Main --
Pos Car Laps time name id avg.mph
1 1 14 10:42.44 RANDY PIKE 36 15.29
2 3 13 10:18.50 TY 50 14.75
3 2 13 10:22.36 CHUCK MILLAR 118 14.65
4 8 13 10:27.70 A SEVILLE BRAVO 135 14.53
5 11 13 10:44.44 MATTHEW ARMENI 79 14.15
6 10 13 10:44.45 TEKNO RC 61 14.15
7 7 12 10:10.67 THOMAS JONES 65 13.79
8 12 12 10:35.31 DAN BURNHAM 23 13.25
9 6 12 10:47.43 JIM CAMPBELL 7 13.00
10 5 9 10:30.31 BLADE LUNA 69 10.02
11 9 4 3:29.30 A AARON WEULE 73 13.41
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Last edited by Matthew_Armeni; 11-28-2015 at 10:36 PM.
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Old 11-29-2015, 01:40 PM   #788
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Originally Posted by JOELD View Post
ah thanks!

on another note a completely seized the rear hub inside carrier bearing, odd..
this looks some what suspect....

edit: wont let me upload pic right now

[IMG][/IMG]

Last edited by JOELD; 11-29-2015 at 06:03 PM.
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Old 11-30-2015, 04:04 AM   #789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason07 View Post
If money wasn't an option, which servo would everyone use. I have always used the Hitec 7955(I'm a Hitec fan) but if there is a better servo that Hitec makes, I would be more than happy to spend a few more $$$.

What about something like this?

HSB-9380TH Ultra Torque, Brushless, Titanium Gear Servo

is it too much?

I know some of you may use a $40 servo, and I'm sure they're great, but that's not what I'm after.
Im not a hitec fan because, I've never ran them. If switching was an option, this is what i would switch too. I run the "S" in my buggy and ran the "T" in my truggy. best servos I've ever had

www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-trucks/protek-rc-170t-chad-bradley-team-edition-high-torque-digital-servo-high-voltage-ptk-170t/p265048
OR
www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-trucks/protek-rc-170s-chad-bradley-team-edition-high-speed-digital-servo-high-voltage-ptk-170s/p265047
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Old 11-30-2015, 02:40 PM   #790
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Originally Posted by Dont Hack Me View Post
Im not a hitec fan because, I've never ran them. If switching was an option, this is what i would switch too. I run the "S" in my buggy and ran the "T" in my truggy. best servos I've ever had

www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-trucks/protek-rc-170t-chad-bradley-team-edition-high-torque-digital-servo-high-voltage-ptk-170t/p265048
OR
www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-trucks/protek-rc-170s-chad-bradley-team-edition-high-speed-digital-servo-high-voltage-ptk-170s/p265047
Savox 2274. Used to be a protek fan but had way too many issues with them. Customer service is great with protek but that doesn't help me out when my servo (and backup) goes out during the middle of a race day.
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Old 11-30-2015, 02:53 PM   #791
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All my 1/8 e cars are running Hitec 7954sh on 7.4v . I think they are absolutely the perfect servo for me at .12 speed and 400+ oz . I have never ever had 1 single issue with the hitecs 79** I have had. On the other hand , I have 3 bad HV savox servos that savox has no interest in talking to me about .I have had to rebuild a $130 plus hv futaba with no time on it and I have also sent back 2 protek servos that failed within minutes. I imagine the savox servos that start with a '2" are better than mine , but Im not betting on it . I would try a radiopost servo though fwiw . Drivers seem very happy with them.
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Old 11-30-2015, 05:22 PM   #792
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Here is where I place my transponder on all my Tekno vehicles.

Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread-image.jpg

Is it me or does this car have tons of on-power steering and little off-power steering?
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Old 11-30-2015, 05:44 PM   #793
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Originally Posted by Mikeand22 View Post
Here is where I place my transponder on all my Tekno vehicles.

Attachment 1332557
Although the transponder will work mounted vertically like that, it is designed to be installed horizontally for best performance. A lot of factors determine read performance, including proper installation of the counting loop at the track. If both the loop isn't optimally installed and the transponder is installed vertically or blocked by the aluminum part of the chassis, there are times that it may not count (weak signal).

As a race director, watching the scoring software, I get notifications of "weak" transponders reads. More times than not, these transponders are mounted either vertically or directly on the aluminum chassis. Moving them and mounting them horizontally solves the problem.

This doesn't mean it won't count (at all) mounted like this. Just FYI.

http://support.mylaps.com/kb/en/b2c/...rt_07_2010.pdf
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Old 11-30-2015, 06:11 PM   #794
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwduud View Post
Although the transponder will work mounted vertically like that, it is designed to be installed horizontally for best performance. A lot of factors determine read performance, including proper installation of the counting loop at the track. If both the loop isn't optimally installed and the transponder is installed vertically or blocked by the aluminum part of the chassis, there are times that it may not count (weak signal).

As a race director, watching the scoring software, I get notifications of "weak" transponders reads. More times than not, these transponders are mounted either vertically or directly on the aluminum chassis. Moving them and mounting them horizontally solves the problem.

This doesn't mean it won't count (at all) mounted like this. Just FYI.

http://support.mylaps.com/kb/en/b2c/...rt_07_2010.pdf
Thanks man! I had no idea and no one has ever mentioned that to me. I've never not been counted but that's good to know.
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Old 11-30-2015, 06:37 PM   #795
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Originally Posted by Mikeand22 View Post
Thanks man! I had no idea and no one has ever mentioned that to me. I've never not been counted but that's good to know.
Yeah, I didn't know that either. Good info. Thanks.
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