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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 10-13-2015, 08:42 PM   #481
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All I need to go .2 steering is the uprights and hubs? I love a ton of steering lol. That won't mess with the .3 suspension or anything rite? Just provide more steering
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Old 10-13-2015, 09:52 PM   #482
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Wish they would just make new 10* hubs....
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Old 10-13-2015, 10:34 PM   #483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teknorc View Post
Shortening the front link makes the car more stable. Sweepers, off-power, on power, etc. It will land better as well. We have been moving to a shorter front link lately and the results have been great.

Theoretically it gives you less initial steering but more on power steering. What we have found is less twitch and the rear follows the front better around and out of corners.

Start with the front link short (shortest on hub, shortest on tower, middle on tower). Tune the steering with the rear end:

thicker sway bar (more steering everywhere)
more rear toe (more entry steering)
less rear toe (more stability entering, but more steering out of the corner)
Can this be applied to the NB48.3 as well?
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Old 10-13-2015, 10:58 PM   #484
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Also, what is the typical mAh size people use on the Eb48.3 when running 4S with a 1900KV motor?
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Old 10-13-2015, 11:11 PM   #485
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonfueled View Post
All I need to go .2 steering is the uprights and hubs? I love a ton of steering lol. That won't mess with the .3 suspension or anything rite? Just provide more steering
It gives more off power steering .I tried it on a loose track and liked it better than the stock setup.
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Old 10-14-2015, 08:09 AM   #486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brett C View Post
Also, what is the typical mAh size people use on the Eb48.3 when running 4S with a 1900KV motor?
Ranges from 4600 mAh to 6500mAh.

Those looking to save weight run the lesser capacity batteries. Typically the 6500 mAh packs are used with the ET-48 eTruggy.

I run 5300 mAh packs in both my buggy and truggy running the 1900kv buggy motor in each. Can easily hit 18+ minute practice times in each.

http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-30c-5300-4s1p.html
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Old 10-14-2015, 08:36 AM   #487
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I run 5000 mah SMC's on 4s 1900kv. 15 minutes runtime easy
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Old 10-14-2015, 10:49 AM   #488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brett C View Post
Can this be applied to the NB48.3 as well?
Yes it can
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Originally Posted by Brett C View Post
Also, what is the typical mAh size people use on the Eb48.3 when running 4S with a 1900KV motor?
Most people use a 5000mah battery. It's just been accepted as a normal size since e buggies first came out
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Old 10-14-2015, 11:15 AM   #489
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Thanks everyone.
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Old 10-14-2015, 12:16 PM   #490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brett C View Post
Also, what is the typical mAh size people use on the Eb48.3 when running 4S with a 1900KV motor?
Yes, this applies to all of our vehicles .
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Old 10-14-2015, 12:33 PM   #491
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Fwiw I emailed Ryan Lutz about what he uses for a standard setup on medium bite, and he said he's been running the latest Joe Bornhorst setup and it's really good.
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Old 10-14-2015, 01:07 PM   #492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonfueled View Post
All I need to go .2 steering is the uprights and hubs? I love a ton of steering lol. That won't mess with the .3 suspension or anything rite? Just provide more steering
That's correct. And yes we know people like lots of steering. Our pro drivers tell us this all the time . Something to keep in mind though about steering...

The design of the EB/NB line of vehicles has more steering throw than any other vehicle on the market. Probably by a good 5 or more degrees. At first we thought this was a huge advantage. Lately, through constant testing, we have found the cars are faster and waaaaay more consistent with less steering throw.

So if you're not using the built in steering stops, you're doing yourself a huge disservice. We are using 4 steering limiter washers on the EB/NB and the results have been awesome. Yes, the turning radius is reduced, but lap times and consistency have proven this is a non-factor.

Here's what goes wrong with too much steering throw:
Rear end washes out when landing jumps
Rear end continues to come around exiting corners
Feels like you are struggling for traction at times
Bump handling is unpredictable
Initial steering is extremely twitchy
And other issues to be sure

Here's what's going on. The last 5+ degrees of steering throw happen very quickly and the servo has very very little leverage on the wheels at full throw. This causes the inside wheel to act erratically and get tossed left/right at the whims of the track surface. Without a positive stop there, the inside wheel is going crazy and causing inconsistencies with the handling. The CV's can accommodate this extreme working angle, but there is more chatter which creates further issues.

Even if you just limit your EPA, the inside wheel is still free to move too far when the conditions arise. So install the washers first, then reset your EPA to match.

There are literally dozens of other adjustments that will result in more steering if desired (shocks, springs, ride height, sway bars, diffs, camber links, toe, etc.). By first limiting the throw, you can focus on creating more 'setup steering'. Think of setup steering as being more consistent vs. mechanical steering (i.e. throw).

Additionally, you won't be fighting the car so you will be spending less time tuning something bad out and more time tuning good stuff in.
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Old 10-14-2015, 01:26 PM   #493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
Fwiw I emailed Ryan Lutz about what he uses for a standard setup on medium bite, and he said he's been running the latest Joe Bornhorst setup and it's really good.
What is the latest Bornhorst setup... the Wicked Weekend NB setup... or the Southern Nats.

Also for the PT Shock Oils 425 & 475 what would that be equal to in Losi shock oil....

Thanks in advance.

Last edited by snwchris; 10-14-2015 at 01:53 PM.
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Old 10-14-2015, 02:05 PM   #494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teknorc View Post
That's correct. And yes we know people like lots of steering. Our pro drivers tell us this all the time . Something to keep in mind though about steering...

The design of the EB/NB line of vehicles has more steering throw than any other vehicle on the market. Probably by a good 5 or more degrees. At first we thought this was a huge advantage. Lately, through constant testing, we have found the cars are faster and waaaaay more consistent with less steering throw.

So if you're not using the built in steering stops, you're doing yourself a huge disservice. We are using 4 steering limiter washers on the EB/NB and the results have been awesome. Yes, the turning radius is reduced, but lap times and consistency have proven this is a non-factor.

Here's what goes wrong with too much steering throw:
Rear end washes out when landing jumps
Rear end continues to come around exiting corners
Feels like you are struggling for traction at times
Bump handling is unpredictable
Initial steering is extremely twitchy
And other issues to be sure

Here's what's going on. The last 5+ degrees of steering throw happen very quickly and the servo has very very little leverage on the wheels at full throw. This causes the inside wheel to act erratically and get tossed left/right at the whims of the track surface. Without a positive stop there, the inside wheel is going crazy and causing inconsistencies with the handling. The CV's can accommodate this extreme working angle, but there is more chatter which creates further issues.

Even if you just limit your EPA, the inside wheel is still free to move too far when the conditions arise. So install the washers first, then reset your EPA to match.

There are literally dozens of other adjustments that will result in more steering if desired (shocks, springs, ride height, sway bars, diffs, camber links, toe, etc.). By first limiting the throw, you can focus on creating more 'setup steering'. Think of setup steering as being more consistent vs. mechanical steering (i.e. throw).

Additionally, you won't be fighting the car so you will be spending less time tuning something bad out and more time tuning good stuff in.
+1 Give it a try! Definitely improves the car in many aspects. IF you still have issues with enough steering and you're stuck just post your setup and one of the many team drivers like myself can help you guys out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by snwchris View Post
What is the latest Bornhorst setup... the Wicked Weekend NB setup... or the Southern Nats.

Also for the PT Shock Oils 425 & 475 what would that be equal to in Losi shock oil....

Thanks in advance.
Wicked Weekend Nitro buggy setup is what most are running on both cars (with minor adjustments in a few spots for driving style).

Not positive on the Losi oil, but for Associated its around 35/40. Hopefully that helps.
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Old 10-14-2015, 03:38 PM   #495
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I have a question directly to Tekno RC or maybe someone could help.
I built my buggy with stock fluids: 5000/5000/5000 for the diffs and 400/450 with the shocks.

In the future these fluids will wear, I would also like to test some different settings. Are these stock oils cts, csp, "Tekno WT" or something else? I have a lot of Losi and AE oils on hand, found a conversion chart but not sure where is a starting point I am at?

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