I have a .3, it is a battle proven beast but getting it to rotate is a battle
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Getting ready to replace the chassis on my EB48.3. Then I was looking at the chassis on my SCT410 .3, and they look EXACTLY the same ! Seems to be different part numbers tho.....what am I missing ??
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Originally Posted by SPEEDYCYCLONE
(Post 15144931)
Getting ready to replace the chassis on my EB48.3. Then I was looking at the chassis on my SCT410 .3, and they look EXACTLY the same ! Seems to be different part numbers tho.....what am I missing ??
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Originally Posted by ezlight
(Post 15144977)
They are almost exactly the same. Believe the buggy one is slightly lighter than the SCT.
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New to the forum. This is a great source!
Can you replace the A, B, C, and D blocks on the EB48.1 with the blocks on the .4 If not what all do you need to replace to do so? Thanks! |
Originally Posted by JJG690
(Post 14843836)
If you want to run the .4 C and D blocks you will need to upgrade to a complete .4 rear end. The .3 CVD's/uni's will not work, nor will the arms, etc. You can run a .3 chassis in a pinch, but the rear droop screws barely touch the pads. You will also need to open up the "key-way" for the C-block in the chassis by about 1mm.
Can you replace the A, B, C, and D blocks on the EB48.1 with the blocks on the .4 If not what all do you need to replace to do so? Thanks! |
Originally Posted by wadestew
(Post 15146609)
New to the forum. This is a great source!
Can you replace the A, B, C, and D blocks on the EB48.1 with the blocks on the .4 If not what all do you need to replace to do so? Thanks! |
Originally Posted by MX304
(Post 15146630)
No. You can use the same block from .1 to .3. The .4 is a completely different car, with all new suspension geometry. About the only parts shared with the older versions are the diffs, center drive shafts, and diff bulkheads.
I have an sct410 that I bought the buggy conversion for before thy cameout with the EB48.2 Would you recommend selling it and upgrading to a .4? Does .4 really handle a drive that much better? Is it worth the trouble and effort. I知 an intermediate driver and race locally on backyard tracks in the northern CA area so nothing serious. I just love to have the best car possible if I can. My conversion kit buggy drives pretty amazing and I bought the top of the line upgrades for it at the time. Carbon shock towers, lightweight outdrives, aluminum coned shock pistons, and on and on. Just wondering if I知 missing out on some adjustability and handling if I don稚 upgrade. |
Originally Posted by wadestew
(Post 15147178)
Thank you, MX304! Interesting. The a-d blocks look like they have the same block insert configs for the .3 and .4 when you look at teknos racer setup sheets. Know what I mean?
Originally Posted by wadestew
(Post 15147178)
I have an sct410 that I bought the buggy conversion for before thy cameout with the EB48.2
Would you recommend selling it and upgrading to a .4? Does .4 really handle a drive that much better? Is it worth the trouble and effort. I’m an intermediate driver and race locally on backyard tracks in the northern CA area so nothing serious. I just love to have the best car possible if I can. My conversion kit buggy drives pretty amazing and I bought the top of the line upgrades for it at the time. Carbon shock towers, lightweight outdrives, aluminum coned shock pistons, and on and on. Just wondering if I’m missing out on some adjustability and handling if I don’t upgrade. Long answer below IMHO, the .3 car negated any buggy before it (the eb48.2 was still a good car), but they also released the KIT EB48SL, which is the sct410.3 for the prolite class. That said, if your outdoors, you would enjoy a little more consistency and stability of the full size buggy. The .3 would be an upgrade, and the eb48.4 is an upgrade over that. If your looking to buy, the .4 is the way to go. Easier to drive, and the recommended setup they have on teknoRC.com is really good. I'm only a couple changes from it. You will find that setup on the eb48.4 to be where you want it, when compared with months of fiddling with any of the previous cars. The nice thing about the .4, is if you run indoors, swap everything over to 2s electronics to the class requirements, and you make weight for the class. So you can run your .4 indoors and not need another buggy. |
Originally Posted by wadestew
(Post 15147178)
Thank you, MX304! Interesting. The a-d blocks look like they have the same block insert configs for the .3 and .4 when you look at teknos racer setup sheets. Know what I mean?
I have an sct410 that I bought the buggy conversion for before thy cameout with the EB48.2 Would you recommend selling it and upgrading to a .4? Does .4 really handle a drive that much better? Is it worth the trouble and effort. I知 an intermediate driver and race locally on backyard tracks in the northern CA area so nothing serious. I just love to have the best car possible if I can. My conversion kit buggy drives pretty amazing and I bought the top of the line upgrades for it at the time. Carbon shock towers, lightweight outdrives, aluminum coned shock pistons, and on and on. Just wondering if I知 missing out on some adjustability and handling if I don稚 upgrade. |
I recently upgraded from the .3 to the .4 and my fast lap dropped from 35.5 to 34.7 on the same layout and same track conditions, same set of tires... couldn't be happier with the .4 :)
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Originally Posted by ezlight
(Post 15147189)
They do use the same pills, but the blocks and chassis themselves are different for different geometry
Short answer, get the .4. Long answer below IMHO, the .3 car negated any buggy before it (the eb48.2 was still a good car), but they also released the KIT EB48SL, which is the sct410.3 for the prolite class. That said, if your outdoors, you would enjoy a little more consistency and stability of the full size buggy. The .3 would be an upgrade, and the eb48.4 is an upgrade over that. If your looking to buy, the .4 is the way to go. Easier to drive, and the recommended setup they have on teknoRC.com is really good. I'm only a couple changes from it. You will find that setup on the eb48.4 to be where you want it, when compared with months of fiddling with any of the previous cars. The nice thing about the .4, is if you run indoors, swap everything over to 2s electronics to the class requirements, and you make weight for the class. So you can run your .4 indoors and not need another buggy. I値l start looking for a clean slightly used .4 roller |
Originally Posted by blankenj99
(Post 15147192)
Also, since you mentioned the sct, there isn't a .4 version of the sct. Only the buggies. Fierce rc solutions sales a kit to upgrade the sct to .3, which is the most current version.
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Originally Posted by SPEEDYCYCLONE
(Post 15144931)
Getting ready to replace the chassis on my EB48.3. Then I was looking at the chassis on my SCT410 .3, and they look EXACTLY the same ! Seems to be different part numbers tho.....what am I missing ??
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my eb48.3 jumping a 360ー . some guys do it nicely on racing tracks, i have to do it my way !
https://youtu.be/RHUiGKEVKv0 |
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