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Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread

03-13-2017, 12:03 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread

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Last edit by: MattDub

Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 – Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 – Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 – Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 – Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T – Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T – Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 – Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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11-18-2016, 06:24 AM

#2551

JKresty

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Quote:

Originally Posted by ezlight

OOhh, a lutz roller...Awesome...Don't change too much! haha

On teh SCT and EB, the middle and rear braces are optional. I still crash with the best of them, so I run all braces.

At a glance the SCT and EB braces look to be the same parts?

I think I will take the advice given and run the braces, crashing is given for me.

11-18-2016, 06:49 AM

#2552

ezlight

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Quote:

Originally Posted by JKresty

At a glance the SCT and EB braces look to be the same parts?

I think I will take the advice given and run the braces, crashing is given for me.

Yes they are. Same chassis and diff housings too.

11-18-2016, 07:08 AM

#2553

RookieRacer00

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Is the Protek 150T a good servo choice for the eb48.3?

11-18-2016, 03:20 PM

#2554

qstorm777

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RookieRacer00

Is the Protek 150T a good servo choice for the eb48.3?

That's what I use and I like it.

11-18-2016, 03:46 PM

#2555

justpoet

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RookieRacer00

Is the Protek 150T a good servo choice for the eb48.3?

I ran one for my first 2 seasons without issue. After that, it needed a gear replacement set. I run the 170s now just so it'll match my truggy servo. Considering trying an MKS in the future.

11-18-2016, 05:15 PM

#2556

akshayp14

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Quote:

Originally Posted by akshayp14

i have batteries ranging from 400 grams to 470 grams, but after seeing some setup sheets it seems as though something with more weight may be better balanced... any advice or a ballpark weight figure i should be aiming for?

equipment is as follows:
ESC (RX8g2) - 77g
Motor (T8g2) - 368g
Receiver (Rx471) - 7g
Transponder (rc4) - 5g
Servo (Savox 1271)- 63g
+- wiring & pinion - 40g

Total right side weight: 560 grams

anyone have any thoughts on this?

11-18-2016, 06:02 PM

#2557

justpoet

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Quote:

Originally Posted by akshayp14

anyone have any thoughts on this?

Your batteries are fairly light for 4s 8th scale. Most are in the 500-600g range for the 5000-6500mah range packs we usually run. That being said, put the wheels on scales before worrying too much about balance. I thought mine would be way off, but with a heavier servo than yours I was actually quite well balanced. Where the weight is and how that load is distributed, matters just as much as how much there is, for side to side balance.

I personally run SMC 6500 packs most all the time, and would probably get the new 6000 true spec pack if I were buying today, but even their 5200 budget pack is in the same weight range as what you'd want.

11-19-2016, 02:40 PM

#2558

akshayp14

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Quote:

Originally Posted by justpoet

Thanks for your informative response.

i actually run a 6s setup so even lighter batteries are possible but yeah just the chassis balance that im concerned about, and thanks for reminding me about the importance of where exactly the weight is i.e. battery positioning.

i will buy one of each (470g and 570g) and see how it feels once Ive built the car.

11-19-2016, 10:38 PM

#2559

Matthew_Armeni

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Quote:

Originally Posted by akshayp14

Based on the weight you gave it appears you're running a truggy motor. I'd suggest try running a buggy motor as well to help equalize your L/R bias, good for about 50 grams.

11-20-2016, 04:02 AM

#2560

SCATO

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Eb48 and Et48

I am looking for the best set up for my two tekno... the condition of our outdoor track is a little compact with the top lose.. on my arrma typhon I run Aka cityblock...

1. Looking the best moto and esc combo.
2. Servo
3. Tire
4.diff oil.
5. Shock oil.
And any other tip that you recommend..

11-20-2016, 11:27 PM

#2561

akshayp14

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni

Based on the weight you gave it appears you're running a truggy motor. I'd suggest try running a buggy motor as well to help equalize your L/R bias, good for about 50 grams.

Thanks for your advice!

i used to run the buggy motors but then found the truggy motors to be a little more efficient (uses less mah), gives a little more vroom and stays cooler which all adds up to the motor lasting longer which i was ok to sacrifice 50-60 grams for, but i guess this means i will have to play around with motors and batteries before setup...

11-21-2016, 02:35 PM

#2562

justpoet

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Quote:

Originally Posted by SCATO

1) Common ESCs are the Tekin RX8 Gen2 (what I like the best of those on the market currently), the HobbyWing SCT Pro (decent, but weak and non-HV BEC), and the HobbWing XR8. The HW XR8 is a bit larger than the others, so is a really tight fit into the chassis, but all 3 should serve you well in buggy, and the RX8/XR8 should both handle truggy power well, though the truggy is where the larger ESC footprint makes things really difficult if you're running a truggy sized motor. I run the SMC eBuggy motor and the Tekin truggy motor, but most any motor will be decent in proper KV range (1900-2100 is a generally safe spot for both on the usual 4s).
2) For buggy, get something 300oz/in or better, for truggy, get something 400oz/in or better. Speed is whatever you prefer, but for most folks that's something in the .07-.11 range. I'm personally running the ProTek 170s in both buggy and truggy so they match, and previously ran the ProTek 150t in the buggy for a couple seasons and have been happy with both. Going overboard on specs just means your servo will last longer and not work as hard, so don't skimp here if you're racing. If you're bashing, you can get away with a little less torque and keeping the servo saver more loose than normal.
3) Whatever tires are fast at the given track. Look at whatever the folks finishing on the podium are using, and get one of those if you don't already have it.
4) Stock oils are pretty good, but in general, these diff oils are good to have on hand: 5, 7, 10, 12, 15. If you're on really loose tracks, maybe 3 as well. I run 7-7-5 almost everywhere in the buggy and have run 10-10-5 most places with the truggy, though that's changing to 10-12-5.
5) Highly dependent on setup, temps, and track conditions. Once you find a setup you generally like, get 50cst or 2.5wt up and down from the oils used in it so you can adjust for temperature or how bad the bumps get on the track.