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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 08-24-2015, 08:34 PM   #241
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Default Spindles

Any thoughts on the trailing spindle design? Has anyone noticed a difference?
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Old 08-24-2015, 09:44 PM   #242
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Any thoughts on the trailing spindle design? Has anyone noticed a difference?
I believe they're supposed to yield more steering but don't quote me
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Old 08-25-2015, 10:43 AM   #243
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Are the heavier oils that folks seem to be using in setups in the rear shocks a result of the increased volume of the longer shocks? I've always run with the front weight using the heavier fluid than the rear shocks, but not so with the .3 setups I'm seeing so far. I won't get to test mine out for a few weeks yet and it will run on a small/med indoor where 35F / 30R shock oil has seemed to work well in the past, anyone have suggestions on where to start with fluids for my newly converted .3 in these types of conditions

Thanks,
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Old 08-25-2015, 01:33 PM   #244
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Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
Are the heavier oils that folks seem to be using in setups in the rear shocks a result of the increased volume of the longer shocks? I've always run with the front weight using the heavier fluid than the rear shocks, but not so with the .3 setups I'm seeing so far. I won't get to test mine out for a few weeks yet and it will run on a small/med indoor where 35F / 30R shock oil has seemed to work well in the past, anyone have suggestions on where to start with fluids for my newly converted .3 in these types of conditions

Thanks,
I just test drove my converted .3 last week at our local indoor and it definitely felt like I need thinker front oil or maybe next rate up from Green front spring. With the Green front and lighter oil it compressed pretty good in some of the hard turns, which almost felt like a little push in the front. The only other thing I noticed with the .3 stuff is that some of my turns in the 180s were a little wider, like couldn't hug the tight 180s like prior, but I think that will be just more working on the setup to fine tune for indoors.

Indoor doesn't officially start for us until October, so I'll have to wait to mess with the indoor setup, but for now it handles good outdoors.
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Old 08-25-2015, 02:28 PM   #245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
Are the heavier oils that folks seem to be using in setups in the rear shocks a result of the increased volume of the longer shocks? I've always run with the front weight using the heavier fluid than the rear shocks, but not so with the .3 setups I'm seeing so far. I won't get to test mine out for a few weeks yet and it will run on a small/med indoor where 35F / 30R shock oil has seemed to work well in the past, anyone have suggestions on where to start with fluids for my newly converted .3 in these types of conditions

Thanks,
The obvious change in the .3 buggy platform is the movement of the lower shock mounting position outward, both front and rear. The further the shock is moved out on the arm, the faster the shock shaft travels when input is provided from the track surface pushing up on it. Faster shock shaft speed will allow the piston to "pack up" quicker. This allows us to get away with slightly lighter oil up front, but still feel the gain of "stability" when the nose of the car doesn't bottom out from a big hit, especially when landing nose down first.

Without breaking out the calipers and measuring, it seems as though the front, lower mounting position moved more from the .2 to the .3 than the rear did. Especially when using the .3 kit (box stock) mounting locations (outer on front arm, inner on the rear arm).

If this is accurate, without measuring to confirm, the front shock on the .3 has gained more relative shock shaft speed than on the rear, allowing us to run either equal or thinner weight shock oil up front. If you were to run your shock oils on the .3 like the .2 (thicker front shock oil), you may find it feeling even thicker than expected as a result of this geometry change and the extra shock shaft speed.
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Old 08-27-2015, 07:52 PM   #246
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What's everyone liking for shock setup?
Im gonna try pink front 32.5wt rear yellow 35wt this weekend
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Old 08-27-2015, 08:37 PM   #247
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What's everyone liking for shock setup?
Im gonna try pink front 32.5wt rear yellow 35wt this weekend
I did 32.5 Black front and 35 red rear, I'm trying the same spring setup I had used last on my EB48.2.
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Old 08-28-2015, 06:19 PM   #248
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I did 32.5 Black front and 35 red rear, I'm trying the same spring setup I had used last on my EB48.2.
How do you like that setup on it?
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Old 08-29-2015, 02:52 AM   #249
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How do you like that setup on it?
I won't be able to try it out on a track for a couple weeks yet. I'm sure I'll have to make some adjustments, but thought this was a good starting point for fluids based on .3 setups found on the Tekno site.

I'll report back when I do.
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Old 08-29-2015, 07:00 AM   #250
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I am getting the new .3 and thinking of running either on 4S (2050kV) or 3S (2650kV). I am going to run the .3 at a small-medium size indoor track with lot of tight turns. What do you guys think?
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Old 08-29-2015, 09:44 AM   #251
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I am getting the new .3 and thinking of running either on 4S (2050kV) or 3S (2650kV). I am going to run the .3 at a small-medium size indoor track with lot of tight turns. What do you guys think?
4S with a Tekin or SMC 1900 Kv motor
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Old 08-29-2015, 09:56 AM   #252
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Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
4S with a Tekin or SMC 1900 Kv motor
Agree. The 1900kv motors don't give up much, if any, power to the 2050 and are much more drive-able. Especially on smaller tracks.
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Old 08-29-2015, 10:05 AM   #253
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Agree. The 1900kv motors don't give up much, if any, power to the 2050 and are much more drive-able. Especially on smaller tracks.
I thought that I won't need that much power on an indoor small tight track, isn't that 3S would be more drive-able....
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Old 08-29-2015, 11:46 AM   #254
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I thought that I won't need that much power on an indoor small tight track, isn't that 3S would be more drive-able....
A 4s setup is going to run lower amps and keep temps lower and with a 1900kv very versatile in gearing options. I typically run a 18t everywhere and it does well on tight indoor tracks as well as big outdoors.

Now if you were talking about running a SL buggy or an SCT convert I would say go with 3s and a 4x4 SCT motor.
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Old 08-29-2015, 02:38 PM   #255
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4S with a Tekin or SMC 1900 Kv motor
Ditto
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