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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 06-21-2016, 02:35 PM   #1846
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Originally Posted by Geeves View Post
I just built my eb48.3 and my front steering is binding or rubbing when there is no load on the tires. I am putting the buggy on the stand with the servo disconnected and i have these symptoms. If i drop the buggy on the table to ride height it turns left and right freely. Any thoughts?
Flip the screws that attach the steering tie rod to the knuckle. They can hit or rub, so flip them.
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Old 06-21-2016, 02:44 PM   #1847
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Wow that was it thank you so much that was it.
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Old 06-22-2016, 08:14 AM   #1848
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so i ran my buggy today and am pretty pleased with it.there was one area on the track that cost me the win though,it was a whoop section about 30 yds long.if i managed to come into it "right" i could muttle my way through it.otherwise it was bucking like bronco!the other thing is,it a bit of on power push through certain corners.i put joes summer nat setup on there ,with exception to the pills for the "c" block,which i didnt have.so im thinking the "c" block is anti squat,and by not having it go negative,it was almost to much forward bite in ares?
I was thinking all the pills needed to run Joe's setup was included. So what antisquat are you currently running. Compared to my serpent, I thought it pushed too on-power. I didn't run for a couple of weeks than ran and it seemed like the push was gone. I think I just adapted to it, but I would love to see what others think and what the solution is.

Yeah, the c and d block combined sets your antisquat.
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Old 06-22-2016, 09:15 AM   #1849
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I know with the sct they remove all the antisquat. Do people do that with this buggy also?
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Old 06-22-2016, 01:30 PM   #1850
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I know with the sct they remove all the antisquat. Do people do that with this buggy also?
Some do, but the .3 seems to like more anti-squat and less rear toe than the .2 did. I have mine set to half of the available anti-squat. I can't remember how many degrees that is off the top of my head.
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Old 06-22-2016, 08:16 PM   #1851
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Has anyone put a 4274 sized motor in an EB48.3?

Hobbying just released their XeRUN G2 4274. They also have a 4268 but it is not available yet.

I emailed Tekno support, and they said I can fit up to a 79mm long motor. Looking at some of the photos though, the ESC fits close to the end of the motor, and the ESC size may change how long of motor will fit in there?

My combo (arriving tomorrow) is a Hobbywing XR8 Plus with the HW G2 4274 (2250kv) motor. Im a bit hesitant to open the motor until I can verify if it will indeed fit... would hate to open it and not be able to send it back to Amain.

The 48.3 kit just arrived yesterday and I haven't began building it yet... just trying to plan accordingly for any issues I may have.
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Old 06-22-2016, 08:19 PM   #1852
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*DELETE*, had the wrong info.
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Old 06-23-2016, 01:45 AM   #1853
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Originally Posted by z28mccrory View Post
Has anyone put a 4274 sized motor in an EB48.3?

Hobbying just released their XeRUN G2 4274. They also have a 4268 but it is not available yet.

I emailed Tekno support, and they said I can fit up to a 79mm long motor. Looking at some of the photos though, the ESC fits close to the end of the motor, and the ESC size may change how long of motor will fit in there?

My combo (arriving tomorrow) is a Hobbywing XR8 Plus with the HW G2 4274 (2250kv) motor. Im a bit hesitant to open the motor until I can verify if it will indeed fit... would hate to open it and not be able to send it back to Amain.

The 48.3 kit just arrived yesterday and I haven't began building it yet... just trying to plan accordingly for any issues I may have.
I've seen pictures of the Tekin T8 truggy motor fit with the HW XR8, but JUST BARELY. I wouldn't run it, because chassis flex would likely shove the sensor wire into breaking in addition to slamming the motor and ESC together. The new HW 4274 is a truggy length motor as well, so SHOULD fit (barely), but it also wouldn't be a normal buggy motor so somebody could get on your case with rules if you attend any larger events. If you have the option to, I would swap it for a normal buggy motor in the 1800-2100kv range, with 1900kv being what most run in the eBuggies. The XR8 is quite large, so that's why you'll find these things challenging. A smaller ESC like the HW SCT Pro, Tekin RX8, or Orion R8.1 Pro will make motor clearance a non-issue.
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Old 06-23-2016, 03:05 PM   #1854
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I have a Tekin T8 1900 motor. Is anybody running a 17t pinion? I run on a medium size outdoor track and the outside temperature lately is around 95 when we start racing. I have been running a 18t pinion but motor is getting hot. Tekin website says to stay under 180. I get up around 200. Is that too hot or am I safe? I assume going to a 17T will help with my heat. Anybody running a heatsink? If so, what heatsink fits? Thanks!!!
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Old 06-23-2016, 04:14 PM   #1855
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Originally Posted by Ruffdog1 View Post
I have a Tekin T8 1900 motor. Is anybody running a 17t pinion? I run on a medium size outdoor track and the outside temperature lately is around 95 when we start racing. I have been running a 18t pinion but motor is getting hot. Tekin website says to stay under 180. I get up around 200. Is that too hot or am I safe? I assume going to a 17T will help with my heat. Anybody running a heatsink? If so, what heatsink fits? Thanks!!!
Well I run on a large track and I use a 19t pinion and my temps are good. It's usually around 90 degrees on race day. I started at 17 but was way undergeared and 18t was better but still off some. The 19t really made the car run cooler for me versus the smaller pinions. You running timing? Maybe binding in driveline? Wheelspin? Excessive brake use?
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Old 06-23-2016, 04:19 PM   #1856
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Originally Posted by Ruffdog1 View Post
I have a Tekin T8 1900 motor. Is anybody running a 17t pinion? I run on a medium size outdoor track and the outside temperature lately is around 95 when we start racing. I have been running a 18t pinion but motor is getting hot. Tekin website says to stay under 180. I get up around 200. Is that too hot or am I safe? I assume going to a 17T will help with my heat. Anybody running a heatsink? If so, what heatsink fits? Thanks!!!
Make sure you don't have a bind , bearing going bad etc. I run that motor with a 19t and never get over 180 in 100+ deg. heat.
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Old 06-24-2016, 07:53 AM   #1857
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Am I able to run an 1900kv SMC motor with a Trackstar ESC?

Im trying to save some money and sell the tekin setup I bought months ago and Still havent built the car as Im not racing as much as I thought I would so im trying to go cheaper.
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Old 06-24-2016, 09:06 AM   #1858
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Not sure about the specifics on that ESC, but as long as it supports sensored, 4 pole motors and 4 cells, it should work.

On another note, I had a sensor board get damaged when I loaned out my Novak HD8 so I'll be trying that SMC 1900kv as well. I'll let you guys know what I think after I get to run it.
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Old 06-24-2016, 09:15 AM   #1859
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Am I able to run an 1900kv SMC motor with a Trackstar ESC?

Im trying to save some money and sell the tekin setup I bought months ago and Still havent built the car as Im not racing as much as I thought I would so im trying to go cheaper.
i run the trackstar 150amp esc w/ the smc 1900kv motor. no issues running.
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Old 06-24-2016, 10:50 AM   #1860
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
Not sure about the specifics on that ESC, but as long as it supports sensored, 4 pole motors and 4 cells, it should work.

On another note, I had a sensor board get damaged when I loaned out my Novak HD8 so I'll be trying that SMC 1900kv as well. I'll let you guys know what I think after I get to run it.
They're great! Slightly more punchy than the Tekin 1900. The 2100 SMC is what I'm running now and it is smooth as butter.
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