Tekno RC EB48SL Thread
 

At Tekno RC, we pride ourselves on listening to our customers and responding to popular demand. After releasing the original SCT410 4×4 SC truck, many people were ‘converting’ the SC platform into a 1/8th scale buggy that utilized the lighter drivetrain and suspension components of the SC. This led us to release a conversion kit to accomplish the task easier. The acceptance in the marketplace was immediate, as many customers could now run a 1/8th scale buggy using 2s lipo batteries and Pro4 motors and ESC’s. Furthermore, they could run on some tracks that didn’t allow for ‘full weight’ 4s lipo powered beasts.

Then we thought, “why not make it even easier for our customers to get what they want and offer a full blown SL kit?” Enter the EB48SL. Tekno RC was the first company to offer a purpose built 1/8th electric buggy when it hit the scene a few years ago. And now we’ve done it again with the first purpose built ‘Super Light’ 1/8th electric buggy. The EB48SL is built on the new SCT410.3 platform and shares ~95% parts compatibility with it. All of the new improvements and features put into the SCT410.3 are all present in the EB48SL, along with a couple others specifically for the buggy.

The EB48SL represents a new and emerging class that is far more accessible to more people just starting out in the class. Batteries, motors, and parts are less expensive than their full weight 1/8th cousins. The kit itself is also an undeniable value and is backed by the best customer service in the industry.

But enough of that – how does it perform on the track? ‘Easy to drive fast’ would be the best way to describe the SL. Full traction patch of a 1/8th scale tread with much less weight and a touch less power results in maximum traction and corner speed. The EB48 is known for it’s steering, jumping ability, and efficiency and the SL continues this legacy.

Lightened differentials, lightened driveline, and lightened aluminum parts are standard and used throughout. 16mm bore, aluminum threaded body, long travel shocks are standard. Updated SCT410.3 suspension geometry is standard. Split center diff mount and lightened chassis are standard. This is how we say ‘thank you’ to our customers, by providing maximum performance at a reasonable price.

THIS IS NOT A REPLACEMENT FOR THE EB48.2. THIS IS A NEW 1/8th BUGGY KIT FOR AN EMERGING RACE CLASS.

EB48SL Features:
Chassis:
4mm CNC lightened aluminum black anodized chassis.
Super narrow layout – widest point is only 125mm (less than 5”) mudguard-to-mudguard.
Class leading front and rear clearance (short chassis overhang) provides better bump handling and jump landing.
Lightweight aluminum pivot balls and suspension bushing are standard.
New lighter camber link rod ends and turnbuckles.
Adjustable, LCG lightweight wing mount.
Integrated battery tray/mud guard, battery is sunken into chassis for a super low CG.
Integrated electronics tray/mud guard for easy removal of electronics.
Spacious, enclosed, easy access radio box with integrated transponder mount.
Adjustable chassis brace system for fine tuning flex with front, center, and rear braces.

Motor Mount:

2-piece CNC aluminum motor mount with precision dual clamping gear mesh adjustment.
LCG lightened motor mount insert is standard.
Split center diff mount for easy maintenance.
Lightweight direct-to-diff mount design.
Uses standard MOD 1 pinion gears (TKR4171-TKR4190).

Differentials and Drivetrain:

3 fluid filled adjustable super lightweight diffs.
Newly redesigned precision diff gears with innovative 1-piece cross-pin design for increased durability.
Lightened outdrives and diff couplers used throughout.
Aluminum tapered aluminum center driveshaft.
Angled rear gearbox with large bearings reduces wear.
CV driveshafts with captured pins on all 4 wheels.
Standard 17mm wheel hex fits standard 1/8th wheels without the use of adapters.
Straight center driveline and less rotating mass = better acceleration and efficiency.

Shocks:

16mm bore CNC aluminum hard anodized threaded shock bodies.
4mm hardened steel polished shock shafts.
4mm 7075 aluminum LCG shock towers are standard.
New clamping spring perches with captured shock boots.
Innovative conical piston design (not just tapered) provides varied compression and rebound rates.
Fully adjustable long travel suspension geometry maximizes stability and traction while providing superior cornering and on-power steering.
Triple guide design for true consistent shaft action.
Options for vented cap, emulsion, or standard shock configurations out of the box.
Optional springs and sway bars available.

Suspension and Steering:

All new SCT410.3 front and rear suspension geometry.
New V2 hinge pin brace system for incredible adjustability.
Adjustable front arm sweep and angle to make the car more aggressive (swept forward), or easier to drive (swept back).
New longer rear sway bar for better consistency.
‘Narrow pivot’ steering posts provide ‘0 bump’ geometry with almost 0 steering slop.
4mm inner, 3.5mm outer hinge pins, polished for smooth action.
Adjustable Ackermann and bump-steer (bump in, 0 bump, bump out).
Steering system is fully supported on precision ball bearings. No bushings here.


Other Features:

Exceptional wear characteristics. Leave the slop and warping to the other guys.
Easily adjust anti-squat, rear toe, front arm angle, front arm sweep, roll center, toe, camber, wheelbase, Ackermann, bump steer, suspension geometry out of the box..
Extremely easy to work on with minimal screw count.
Shares many parts with the SCT410/EB/NB/ET/NT48 = less parts in your toolbox.
Compatibility with many existing parts and options.
All metric hex hardware.
100% Tekno RC Designed and Tested in Southern California.

Specifications:

Length: 522mm
Wheelbase: 323-335mm
Width: 306mm
Weight: ~2950g (6.5lb) – depends on equipment used, can be setup much lighter
Diff Ratio: F/R – 10/40t, Center – 44t
Battery tray dimensions: 50x148mm
Kit/RTR: Kit

Needed to complete:

2 channel radio/transmitter
ESC and Pro4 SCT motor
High torque steering servo
2s LiPo battery
1/8th tires, wheels & CA glue
paint for body
Hex tools (1.5, 2.0, 2.5mm), nut drivers (5.0, 5.5, 7.0mm), 17mm wheel wrench, pliers, other tools


Diff Gasket Tip. The gasket fits really snug in the ring gears of the front and rear diffs and the holes in the gasket are precisely the size of the holes in the ring gear. So, install the gasket in the ring gear at an angle and get the first hole aligned perfectly before working the rest of the gasket in. You can smear a little bit of black grease on both sides of the gasket first. Once the gasket is fully seated, you can not turn it within the ring gear.

Outer Diff Shims Tip. Getting the diff in the housings with one shim on each side can be challenging. They are delicate, thin, and have nothing to keep them in place while you try to install the diff. It's very easy to buckle/bend one or miss getting it in the housing. What you can do to make installation easier is to cut a .5mm x 30-40 degree chamfer on the inside of each of the four corners of the bearing lip of each diff housing halve (8 total for front diff, 8 total for rear diff). [See pic below] This allows a bit of alignment assistance to get the diff installed without damaging the shims.
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...psaea5eedf.jpg


SPRING CHART
http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...ringChart2.jpg

I also found this chart comparing Losi 8ight and Hot Bodies D8 springs, both of which fit Tekno shocks.
http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/...ps520a8fd4.jpg

I made a chart of the Kyosho springs.
http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/...ps748f3601.jpg

Here's a chart of all the available springs together.
PISTON CHART
http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7dd561db.jpg
BEARING CHART
http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...ingChart_4.jpg

Avid RC now makes a bearing kit.
http://avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=524&kitname=SCT410


GEARING RECOMMENDATIONS
These recommendations are based on 2s lipo setups and are guidelines only. If you're switching to this vehicle from another that you had achieved a speed you liked I highly recommend visiting this site -http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html, inputting your old/current vehicles information, recording that data, then input the SCT410 info and adjust the pinion gear until you are close to your original top speed.
Small track (50-100 ft straight)
3600-4000 kv 13-15 tooth pinion
4400-4800 kv 12-14 tooth pinion
5000-5400 kv 11-13 tooth pinion
Medium track (100-150 ft straight)
3600-4000 kv 15-17 tooth pinion
4400-4800 kv 14-16 tooth pinion
5000-5400 kv 13-15 tooth pinion
Large track (150-200 ft straight)
3600-4000 kv 16-18 tooth pinion
4400-4800 kv 15-17 tooth pinion
5000-5400 kv 14-16 tooth pinion

INNER HINGE PIN ADJUSTMENTS
The EBSL has adjustable hinge pin holders that allow users to fine tune their truck for different tracks, conditions, or driving styles.
You can adjust the amount of front arm "sweep" in 0.5 degree increments from 2 degree forward to 2 degree back.
This picture is top down, looking at the left side of the hingepin blocks.
http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/...pszvgo3ceb.jpg

You can adjust the amount of arm kick-up in 0.5 degree increments from 8 degrees up to 12 degrees. This in turn also adjusts your total caster angle from 18-22 degrees.
[IMG]http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/...psaargedyi.jpg[/IMG]

You can adjust the rear toe angle in 0.5 degree increments from 0 degrees up to 4 degrees.
This picture is top down, looking at the left side of the hingepin blocks.
http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/...ps02lgrgsg.jpg


You can adjust the rear anti squat angle in 0.5 degree increments from 1 degree up to 5 degrees with the stock plastic hingepin holders and 0 to 4 degrees with the addition of the aluminum C block.

Plastic brace
http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5iauwxzw.jpg

Aluminum brace
http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/...pspqsemdxq.jpg

Arm Sweep
The purpose of sweeping the arm forward or backward is mostly to sweep the driveshafts forward or backward. When the driveshafts are angled it changes how the car reacts on and off power. (This goes for the rear driveshafts as well.)

When the driveshafts are swept forwards, the stub axles are being twisted down toward the ground, pushing down on the tires and lifting the front of the chassis. This can be helpful in really bumpy sections to keep the front up and not dig in. It will also create more weight transfer to the front during braking which will increase your off-power steering.
When the driveshafts are swept backwards, the stub axles are now being twisted up, lifting the tires and pushing the chassis down. We've found that the biggest benefit to sweeping the arms back is jump landing. With the arms back, the car kind of "sucks" itself to the ground. It settles much faster and allows you to get on the throttle immediately. During breaking and off throttle the chassis will stay a little flatter front to back and either feel "pushy" or more controlled into the corner.

You can adjust the rear sweep by changing the wheelbase.
It's possible to have toe in on the rear and have the axles swept backwards (not on our car, I'm just making a generalization), but it doesn't handle well. It will squat really hard on acceleration and the nose will dip under braking. If any of you have ever driven a Revo with the long wheelbase rear arms you know what I'm talking about ;)


Skid plates
LeadFinger RC makes a makes a stainless steel skid-plate. Here's a link to the store.
http://shop.leadfingerrc.com/images/...d%20design.jpg
APE-RC makes a stainless steel skid-plate. Here's a link to his online store.
http://images.ecwid.com/images/1226186/54142875.jpg

T-Bone Racing makes several bumpers/skids in different sizes for the front and rear of the truck.
http://t-bone-racing.net/images/products/24497.jpg
http://t-bone-racing.net/images/products/21921.JPG
Here's a link to the Tekno section of their online store.

DE-Racing's rear skid plate
http://www.deracing.net/store/image/...2s-500x500.jpg
http://www.deracing.net/store/index....product_id=301


LIST OF COMPATIBLE ALUMINUM SERVO HORNS:
OFNA-
23T OFN10772
24T OFN10774
25T OFN10776
http://c456141.r41.cf0.rackcdn.com/i...n/ofn10774.jpg
Serpent-
23T SER600463
24T SER600464
25T SER600465
http://c456141.r41.cf0.rackcdn.com/i.../ser600464.jpg
Hot Bodies-
23T HBS67167
24T HBS67168
25T HBS67169
http://c456141.r41.cf0.rackcdn.com/i...s/hbs67169.jpg
Tekno-
23T TKR5251
24T TKR5252
25T TKR5253
http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con.../TKR5252_s.jpg
VPPro
http://www.vpprousa.com/rc-parts-acc...category_id=22
http://www.vpprousa.com/components/c...634_150x76.jpg

OTHER STEERING UPGRADES
APE-RC makes a stainless steel ackermann plate.
http://images.ecwid.com/images/1226186/52522721.jpg It's available here.
Tekno makes an aluminum ackermann plate.
http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...2s-248x248.jpg
Available direct, your LHS, or your favorite online store.

MISCELLANEOUS TOOLS
APE-RC has a great shock tool set that can be purchased here.
http://images.ecwid.com/images/1226186/212138920.jpg

CAMBER LINK INFO
The camber links need a 4mm turnbuckle wrench for adjustment. We've found that some wrenches work exceptionally well.-
-The Losi stamped steel wrench (the one included with the 22 series of vehicles)

-The Hudy wrench
http://c456141.r41.cf0.rackcdn.com/i.../hud181040.jpg


CAMBER/STEERING LINKS

Stock lengths-
Front- 4x56mm
Rear- 4x56mm
Steering- 4x56mm

Optional Titanium links can be found at Lunsford-
http://c456141.r41.cf0.rackcdn.com/i...ns/lns1555.jpg

LNS1455
Lunsford 4x55mm Titanium Turnbuckle

Durango Makes aluminum links that can fit-
http://c456141.r41.cf0.rackcdn.com/i.../tdr310214.jpg


TDR310215 - 4x60mm

Lightweight parts and chassis modding
Carbon Towers
ALTERNATIVE CHASSIS
The stock chassis, TKR5288, is stamped 4mm black anodized aluminum with cutouts.
http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...8s-248x248.jpg

The stock EB48 chassis is milled 7075 hard anodized aluminum with a number of cutouts. It decreases weight, increases flex, and maintains stock hole locations and chassis thickness.
http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...3/TKR5288s.jpg

The original SCT chassis, TKR5001, is stamped 4mm 7075 black anodized aluminum with a minimum amount of cutouts.
http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...1/TKR5001s.jpg

M2CRacing released 2 new chassis-
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...%20CHASSIS.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...0CHASSIS-1.jpg
M2CRacing released 2 new chassis-
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...%20CHASSIS.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...0CHASSIS-1.jpg

M2C RACING is pleased to announce the release of our Tekno Electric
chassis for the 1/8 scale and sct410.
We will have 2 models. The standard design and the modded model which
will move the battery tray back 10 mm.
These chassis are made using 1/8 inch(3.25mm) thick 7075 aircraft grade materials and clear anodized.

use of the material greatly increases the overall life of the chassis.

we have tested and tweeked these chassis to provide the racers a top notch chassis that will perform very well on all surfaces.

This model is made for the tracks with a high wear situations like the tracks we have out West, up north and in Canada

It is important to note that these skid plates fit flush to the bottom of the chassis and will not effect the droop settings and cause you to

scrub speed on the landings.

FEATURES:

We have adopted this model so that if you wish you can cut off the front bumper to help the vehicle not to get upset on landings

and increase ground clearance.

front and rear skid plates.

It is advised you replace the skid plate when the edge of the skid plate wears down to 1 mm.

This will make the chassis last much longer.

hardened droop stops to prevent chassis wear and droop changes.

m2c 6501 (front and rear skid plate)

m2c 6502 (front rear skid plate)
And be sure to take advantage of our 20% off discount coupon
m2ccoupon
just copy and paste in the coupon box as you check out.


Battery Mod
Several people are modding their battery tray to move the battery back to the front of the brake servo mount. Here's an example by sramos.

Heres the jist of what i did. the rubber that goes along the side of battery tray is from a rubber pipe couple i picked home from home depot and cut off and glued in. put a big enough foam in rear to keep well away from diff.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...419-164140.jpg
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...419-164234.jpg
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...419-164256.jpg


OVERDRIVE OPTION
A track with loose conditions is where you'll see the biggest benefit of running an overdrive setup. To achieve this you will need to run the truggy ring and pinion in the rear of the buggy.
You have to use both the pinion and ring gear from the truggy. The truggy's ring gear has a different offset to mate up with the smaller 9t pinion gear.

I built up a whole truggy diff so that I could quickly swap out the diff and pinion gear at the track. It's more expensive that way but the time it saves you at the track is worth it.

For those that are thinking of trying the truggy gears in the rear, here's a couple of tips/things to be aware of -
-You'll need to go up 1 tooth on your pinion gear or you'll lose a noticeable amount of top speed.
-You may want to strongly consider going up in your center diff oil if you're running 5k or less.
-Be aware that your buggy will jump with more of a "nose up attitude" then before.
-Your buggy will now have a slight drag brake off-power coming from the rear end.

ALUMINUM SCREW LISTING

From MattP-
I just made a list of all the screws, washers and nuts needed to convert a Tekno ride over to all aluminum screws. I listed the stock replacement Tekno screw part number first with details beside each. Only screws I did not list for an aluminum swap are the diff screws holding the ring/spur on to the diff. That's a high load bearing screw and steel is a better choice there.

Tekno Screw List:

Tekno #1523 3x10mm Flat Head 2
Tekno #1529 3x20mm Cap Head 20
Tekno #1341 4x6mm Flat Head 6
Tekno #1525 3x14mm Cap Head 18
Tekno #1524 3x12mm Cap Head 10
Tekno #1333 3x40mm Flat Head 4
Tekno #1327 3x16mm Flat Head 4
Tekno #1443 4x10mm Button Head 11
Tekno #1522 3x8mm Cap Head 9
Tekno #1445 4x14mm Button Head 6
Tekno #1447 4x16mm Button Head 2
Tekno #1401 3x6mm Button Head 8
Tekno #1448 4x18mm Button Head 2
Tekno #1343 4x10mm Flat Head 12
Tekno #1322 3x8mm Flat Head 11
Tekno #1344 4x12mm Flat Head 12
Tekno #1346 4x15mm Flat Head 2
Tekno #1325 3x14mm Flat Head 3
Tekno #1407 3x16mm Button Head 1
3x8mm Washer 20
4x9mm Washer 2
3mm Locknuts 20
3mm Flanged Locknuts 8


Part list for all the Tekno screws cross referenced over to blue aluminum at Fastenerexpress.com:
Only thing not listed are the washers.

M3 x .5 x 8mm Socket Head Cap Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30968
$6.01
M3 x .5 x 12mm Socket Head Cap Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30974
$6.47
M3 x .5 x 20mm Socket Head Cap Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30989
$7.51
M3 x .5 x 16mm Button Head Socket Screws - Blue Anodized Qty. 25
Item Number: 30671
$6.82
M3 x .5 x 6mm Flat Head Socket Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30750
$5.78
M3 x .5 x 10mm Flat Head Socket Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30756
$6.24
M3 x .5 x 16mm Flat Head Socket Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30765
$6.82
M4 x .7 x 10mm Button Head Socket Screws - Blue Anodized Qty. 25
Item Number: 30604
$8.44
M4 x .7 x 14mm Button Head Socket Screws - Blue Anodized Qty. 25
Item Number: 30610
$9.59
M4 x .7 x 16mm Button Head Socket Screws - Blue Anodized Qty. 25
Item Number: 30613
$10.16
M4 x .7 x 18mm Button Head Socket Screws - Blue Anodized 25 Pieces
Item Number: 30622
$10.75
M4 x .7 x 10mm Flat Head Socket Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30717
$7.51
M4 x .7 x 12mm Flat Head Socket Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30720
$7.98
M4 x .7 x 14mm Flat Head Socket Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30723
$8.44
M4 x .7 x 6mm Flat Head Socket Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30711
$11.21
3mm Hex Lock Nut Aluminum,Low Profile 5.5mm Hex - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30147
$14.09
M3 x .5 x 14mm Socket Head Cap Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 30977
$6.57
M3 x .4 x 6mm Button Head Socket Screws - Blue Anodized Qty. 25
Item Number: 30646
$5.78
M3 x .5 x 14mm Flat Head Socket Screws - Blue Qty. 25
Item Number: 90193
$6.70

Total with all screws having a count of 25 is $162.58

I will keep updating it as information becomes available. Thanks

Wait a minute- EB410? Does that mean its a 1/10 4x buggy? can't wait to see pics of it!

Crap, I was making this and the SCT410.3 thread at the same time. It is the EB48SL.3. I'll get a mod to fix that.

This is more likely a buggy version of the SCT 410, ie. a super light 1/8 buggy.

Correct. Previously we offered a conversion kit to go from the SC to the SL buggy and now there will be a standalone kit.

ok, I was hopeful. Excited to see the 48 as well.
Thanks

Ah figures. I pick up a sct410 to piece a conversion and the news of this comes out. Can't wait to see it.

Yeah, the heck with an SL I want the new EB48HW.

Whats the latest 8th scale electric buggy from tekno. do you guys recommend this for newbie in 1/8th electric? thanks

If you're indoors or on a small to medium track and want to go 8th scale, this SL (SuperLite) eBuggy is definitely a very good option. If you're outdoors with large jumps, the EB48.2 will be a little beefier and able to take a bit more abuse.

Will this car have the new wing mount?

Yes.

I am interested in this, whats the word on how it well it would work in traditional 1/8 buggy usage (4S, buggy sized electronics) when you get the right straps and motor mount insert?

I am figuring with the larger bearings we could be more durable, and then I could share parts with the new SCT410.3

The outdrives, CVDs, pins in the drivetrain, stub axels, etc are slightly smaller than in the EB48.2 buggy so I would assume they would wear in a bit faster with that kind of power running through them. Plus the battery and motor would ad a great deal of weight vs 2S and SC style motor killing some of the weight advantage you were hoping for.

won't be looking for weight advantage as it still would need to meet min 7lbs for the class. Basically this would be more for the commonality of parts. Looking back at the old thread, seems the main complaint was the bearings in the hubs. So crossing fingers, will see lol.