codysb05

https://wwwcdn.teknorc.com/wp-content/uploads/setup_sheets/SCT410.3/-2018_03_13%20-%20SCT410.3%20-%20Recommended%20Indoor%20Outdoor%20Dirt.jpg
So this setup works well. Jesse Munn Tekno's northwest regional manager and team member Derek Rasheed recommended this setup. It is what Derek Rasheed used to win the six race North West Championship tour in 4wd SCT. The only modification to the sheet was running the ride-height between 22-24 depending on the track. I have tried other setups and this has been the best by far. The front end setup seems like it wouldn't work right but it does. One important thing with this truck is to have a nice smooth run up to all jumps and stay on the throttle slightly and it jumps beautifully. Hit the brakes mid air or try and burst over jumps and you will have issues but once you got the throttle control down it is awesome! Good luck with it.

JoeRC123

Debating whether to get another 410.3 or wait for a 410.4. My .3 is getting beat up.

Big Features

iTrader: (4)

Any suggested modifications or parts for these trucks?

lowspark

iTrader: (7)

Low frequency springs (I run pink front w/35 and yellow rear/25) on a hard packed track. Rougher track I go to a green in the rear)

Steering parts 8104 and 8100

Rear hubs 5545B

JoeRC123

What he said and there is a sticky at the top of the thread where the latest setup and part numbers are posted. I'm running it and it's good.

SLAYERDUDE

Is it possible to EASILY convert this to nitro?
I race against a guy on a clay oval and he smokes everybody with his 410.1, he showed me holes to mount a throttle servo on his stock, says it's made to slap a nitro engine on it...
Any thoughts?
Currently running a 4X4 HPI Bullet ST with an O.S. .18TZ and I'm the only nitro guy, second in points against all electric and I want to have a little more next year against him lol.
If I can do nitro in the Tekno, it will be a big block, I have a modded JL .21 that I'll take out of my race truggy.

Thanks in advance, and don't hate on an old nitro guy...

shadaloo

iTrader: (2)

shadaloo

iTrader: (2)

SLAYERDUDE

I have never owned any SCT, I'm old school and have a bunch of RC10GT's, RC10's, MGT8.0, few Savages, Hot Bodies D8T that I raced 7 years ago, etc, AE guy, But I have an old HPI MT1 that I was running until I bought the O.S. .18TZ and it ripped the drivetrain apart, made my own jig to replace dogbone pins every week lol.
Blew the brand new shimmed diff out of the rear while leaning the engine out from break - in lol.
Bought the HPI Bullet ST to handle the power but don't want to play around next year, looking for winter build info and gonna ride the Bullet ST out this year.
No clue what brand you are even talking about with the NB48 etc, what brand?
Guessing Tekno,
Only 1/10 is allowed, but you can stuff a Chevy 350 in it if you can hold onto it is what the rule is.
I just want something I can get parts for, and destroy the competetion on a small clay oval track.
Currently that is the Tekno that won 10 out of 12 races...
I'm second place in points, got dropped to third this week, Gonna try to figure out a center diff for next week.
Thanks in advance, yea, he said there's a servo mount set of holes that makes it look like it's ready for a nitro throttle servo...

SLAYERDUDE

OK, just googled NB48 and 1/8 is not allowed.
Gotta be advertised as 1/10 scale to be legal, but that is the only rule...

shadaloo

iTrader: (2)

well technically the tekno 1/10 sct and tekno 1/8 eb48 have the same chassis... so if you use all of the sct axles, shocks, arms, etc... and just use the nb48 chassis you would be okay. [:

Matthew_Armeni

iTrader: (31)

Yeah I would just use the NB center parts and the front and rear clips from the SCT. Everything will bolt together just fine.

a1

iTrader: (9)

how much weight are you guys running? Running on a med traction hard packed indoors and the truck doesnt feel planted.

JoeRC123

Check the sticky at the top of this thread. They detail all the new setup with part numbers. Feels very planted and mine is a pig.

Lineman26

New member here, and a fairly new Tekno owner also. Last month I ordered the ET48.3 and loved the quality and design so much compared to a lot of other rigs I've built and owned over the last 25 years that just 2 weeks later I ordered the SCT410.3. Having never raced in my near 30 years of RC, I wasnt concerned about getting electronics and things that you need to race. My local hobby shop has a smallish outdoor track that gets a bit of use, but basically no maintenance, and since I picked up these cars ove spent many many hours at the track. I love it. The ET has pretty much the box stock setup except I've put orange springs on it because the track is super bumpy, even the straight is full of rolling pot holes, but I can really push it with the ET. When I was building the SCT, I had done some research and heard about the nosedive problem and the ridiculously soft rear springs. I purchased the Tekin RX8 Gen 3 and 2250kv T8 Gen 3 truggy motor and it rips. When I ordered the SCT, I had no plans on racing, so to save a bit of money as I had 4 brand new Protek Graphene 6500mah 4s LiHV batteries, I ordered the same speed control but got the combo that included the 2650 buggy spec motor. I figured I could just gear it a bit taller and end up with around the same speed as the 4600kv Pro4 HD, which was what I was going to get. I just already had all the 4s batteries.

When I built it, I compensated for the extra weight by putting heavier springs on (orange) and thicker oil. I've never really played with adjustments like this in the past as I always just put fast equipment in and ripped around the streets or parks etc. Needless to say i couldnt carry any speed over any bumpy areas, and over half the jumps it was pretty much impossible to not crash. I switched it all around as close to one of the setups from Teknos site, and once I put much thinner oil in it was way better. There are still a couple jumps that give me major problems with it landing straight on its nose, and those are any that have any type of lip at the top. The front goes off fine, then the back hits the lip and just get flipped into the air. Same thing when I try to go even half throttle down the straight. The back end hits a bump and the truck will just start tumbling. I just dont know if the rear shock setup is too still now or if its bottoming out. I know if I can get the setup right I could go much faster as there are some guys who run 1/8 buggies and they can fly as fast if not faster than my ET.

I haven't gone through all these pages to look for help, bit what I've done so far is, green front springs, orange rear springs, (I want the green but they haven't been ordered yet), I drilled out some blank delrin pistons to 8x1.4, 35wt front oil, 30wt rear oil. I haven't done anything with the rideheight as I'm not sure what adjustments need to be done. Is that the drop screws or the preload adjusters? The only things I've adjusted are the shock package and the hinge pin pills. I built it with the vented aluminum shock caps and bottom retainers and the stock style delrin shaft guide set. I have not tried a body that is vented out the back areas much yet, but I wouldnt think that could be much of a cause for my problems. To me it seems as though the problems I have on the bumps could be helped with lighter oil as it still seems too thick to fly over bumps. But then it seems if I did that then I would have more problems of the jumps with the "kicker" at the lip.

Sorry for the long post, but although I have tons of experience with RC, I am a complete newbie when it comes to knowing how to make a particular car perform good on tpulls. Any advise or help would be much appreciated as I really want to get involved in racing next year so the more I can learn between now and then would be helpfull.
-Thanks