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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Old 09-05-2022, 08:19 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: rustyus
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.




Hinge Pin Insert Chart:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.





















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Old 05-12-2018, 03:17 PM
  #5581  
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Originally Posted by sickpuppy1
I wanna convert mine to nitro......
I converted mine to nitro for awhile and it was a blast! If there was a race class for it I would of kept it that way.... 2s is rough on electronics and nitro racing sct is awesome. It's a quick swap, try it out if you have both kits.
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Old 05-16-2018, 03:55 AM
  #5582  
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I only have the sct410, but may keep an eye open for a used nitro buggy.....
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Old 05-17-2018, 11:07 AM
  #5583  
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When I built this truck, all the diffs seemed to move pretty smooth. Still do individually. With the car on a stand running the motor very slowly, I occasionally get a little pop and see the center drive shaft flinch a little. Is this just a product of three diffs running slow with no resistance? Anyone else experienced this? At higher speed, it's inperceptable.

The reason I even noticed was that my rear out drive is nearly touching the receiver case where it has a buldge to accept a screw. I was running it slow to see if it made contact. I plan to take a Dremel to that part of case to give it a hair more clearence, as I think it has made contact.
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Old 05-17-2018, 11:53 AM
  #5584  
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No cups in any of the outdrives?
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Old 05-18-2018, 03:48 AM
  #5585  
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Originally Posted by WonTonsChicken
No cups in any of the outdrives?
So, I'm a bit ignorant here.... I think I have an idea what your referring to, but not certain. I'll have a look. Thanks.
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Old 05-18-2018, 04:53 AM
  #5586  
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The green shows the outdrives in the rear.
The red shows a horrible drawing of a "cupped outdrive"
Hope this helps!
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Old 05-18-2018, 09:00 AM
  #5587  
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WonTonsChicken is talking about a worn spot in the outdrive, I believe. Check the outdrives to see if they have excessive wear to the slot, causing the outdrive to catch and not move as smooth as it should.
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Old 05-18-2018, 10:12 AM
  #5588  
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That's kind of what I was picturing .You guys are a huge help. Thanks. I'll be able have a look after this weekend and I'll let you know what I find . Again, thanks.
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Old 05-19-2018, 11:10 PM
  #5589  
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While building all of the turnbuckles, I noticed the all of the pivot balls binds in the ball cup, I had to grind down each and every ball to have it moving freely. Is this normal? I have built a few other kits before, and have never seen this.
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Old 05-20-2018, 08:30 AM
  #5590  
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Originally Posted by syrss
While building all of the turnbuckles, I noticed the all of the pivot balls binds in the ball cup, I had to grind down each and every ball to have it moving freely. Is this normal? I have built a few other kits before, and have never seen this.
I wouldn't have ground them down...if they are a little tight you just take some pliers to the ball cup. By pinching the ball cup slightly you "stretch" the plastic a bit allowing the ball to move freely. I am pretty sure their is a video Lutz put out that explains this. I will see if I can find it for you.
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Old 05-20-2018, 08:35 AM
  #5591  
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Here you go.
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Old 05-20-2018, 12:33 PM
  #5592  
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Thanks guys for the useful tips!!!!!
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Old 05-22-2018, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Tbuggy
WonTonsChicken is talking about a worn spot in the outdrive, I believe. Check the outdrives to see if they have excessive wear to the slot, causing the outdrive to catch and not move as smooth as it should.

Well, no cupping found anywhere. After more thought, I think it's probably nothing. The speed I'm getting the clunk on the test stand is super slow. May even be some kind of low speed cog or something with pinion backlash. Running it wheels on the ground at very low speed there's nothing, and without the motor engaged everything moves very free as well .

On a side note, my issue of the rear out drive being too close to my receiver case, I found the set screw lose, so it backed out a little.

Last edited by TxLoser; 05-22-2018 at 04:58 PM.
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Old 05-22-2018, 06:13 PM
  #5594  
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Originally Posted by TxLoser
First off, really appreciate all the info on here. Got the bug a while back getting a Slash for my kid and I to mess around with. Took it to the track a number of times and then decided I wanted to build something. Went with the 410.3. Fast forward to first track day, and my RX8 suffered an unfortunate event due my own negligence of only using double sided tape to secure it. Broke lose and lost a post in the process.

Now I'm looking to replace it with a HW Xerun XR8 SCT pro. Will this ESC be ok with my Tekin 4300HD motor? It seems to me it would be just fine, but thought I'd double check here.

Thanks.
Like said before, it will work fine with that motor, but if really want to take full advantage of that esc you're going to want to get the HW G2 motor that has a shielded hall sensor specifically to be able to run full time sensor mode and get optimal performance out classing a brand mixed combo like you will have using the takin. Putting a cap pack on there is also highly advised for heavy 2S act setups to further eliminate electronic ripple and keep things cooler and smoother overall. I will rededit this post with the part numbers when I get back to a PC tonight. In my opinion, it doesn't get any better than the HW G2 combos, especially for SCT.
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Old 05-23-2018, 06:02 AM
  #5595  
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Finally got my short bus last night. I am usually a TLR guy but this truck seems to be bullet proof and had so many advantages over the SCTE. I won't be building it for at least another week or two but had already seen all of the helpful info that you guys put up here and I thank you for that in advance! Here is to a new RC adventure to me lol
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