219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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06-14-2017, 12:57 PM
#5026
Thanks for the info everyone. Those run time numbers are a bit disappointing though. While I probably will race occasionally, I find I usually just run laps on the weekends at my local track. With a 4S 6700mah battery/1900kv SMC/Hobbwing XR8 SCT ESC I'm getting at least 30 minutes (maybe closer to 45 minutes) of run time out of my EB48.4. I'd like to see something comparable in any SCT I build as well. Would going down to a smaller motor help in any measurable way? Maybe something in the 3600-4000kv range?
06-14-2017, 01:09 PM
#5027
Tech Master
Thanks for the info everyone. Those run time numbers are a bit disappointing though. While I probably will race occasionally, I find I usually just run laps on the weekends at my local track. With a 4S 6700mah battery/1900kv SMC/Hobbwing XR8 SCT ESC I'm getting at least 30 minutes (maybe closer to 45 minutes) of run time out of my EB48.4. I'd like to see something comparable in any SCT I build as well. Would going down to a smaller motor help in any measurable way? Maybe something in the 3600-4000kv range?
I run for 10-12 minutes at a time with buggy or truggy. And usually during practice I'm using my 7200mah batteries, and run for 10 minutes with my SCT.
Best practice is to have 2 packs for each vehicle, and run them on rotation. Some people have 3. While your running, a pack is charging, and no issues.
06-14-2017, 04:51 PM
#5029
Stiggosaurus, I'm pretty sure you aren't getting 30-45 minutes of runtime with that setup. I could see 15 to 20 but much more than that seems unlikely. The other thing you need to consider here and it has been mentioned by others is motor heat. Firing batteries through one after the other doesn't allow the motor to cool and can lead to overheating. I know you aren't racing but a seized motor sucks for bashing or racing both. I would suggest you get a temp gauge and monitor your temps. I would also set a timer on your remote to remind you to pull off and let things cool down. Check with the locals and find out how long the races are set for the classes you have. They set the length for a reason, typically to ensure equipment isn't destroyed by running too long.
06-14-2017, 04:51 PM
#5030
If your running your buggy for 30-45 minutes, you need to stop. I assume by running it that long, your running to LVC, which is bad for the health of your batteries. Which also makes me ask if you keep your batteries at storage charge when not in use?
I run for 10-12 minutes at a time with buggy or truggy. And usually during practice I'm using my 7200mah batteries, and run for 10 minutes with my SCT.
Best practice is to have 2 packs for each vehicle, and run them on rotation. Some people have 3. While your running, a pack is charging, and no issues.
I run for 10-12 minutes at a time with buggy or truggy. And usually during practice I'm using my 7200mah batteries, and run for 10 minutes with my SCT.
Best practice is to have 2 packs for each vehicle, and run them on rotation. Some people have 3. While your running, a pack is charging, and no issues.
06-14-2017, 06:25 PM
#5031
Anti squat
I have a dumb question.....the book says the pill for the c mount goes in with the dot center, bottom. Book says this is 3* but continues to say that the dot in the center is 3* with the composite c block. Can anyone please explain? I have my dot center, bottom. What anti squat setting does this give? If I want to reduce anti squat, where would I move the dot to?
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
06-15-2017, 04:25 AM
#5032
I have a dumb question.....the book says the pill for the c mount goes in with the dot center, bottom. Book says this is 3* but continues to say that the dot in the center is 3* with the composite c block. Can anyone please explain? I have my dot center, bottom. What anti squat setting does this give? If I want to reduce anti squat, where would I move the dot to?
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
Antisquat is the front side (c block) of the hinge pin raised up more from the chassis than the back side (d block). The composite C block is 3 degrees taller than the D block, this is why when you have the same dot on both blocks you still have 3 degrees antisquat.
If you want less antisquat you would lower the dot on the C block (this puts the front of the hinge pin closer to the chassis). If you run out of adjustment on the C block you can start raising up the dot on the D block (this gives less antisquat because it raises the back of the hinge pin closer to the height of the C block)
06-15-2017, 04:29 AM
#5033
Your current setting would be 2 degrees, to go less than that you will need to adjust the D block upwards (explained in more detail below) or get the aluminum C block (it has 1 degree less antisquat than the composite)
Antisquat is the front side (c block) of the hinge pin raised up more from the chassis than the back side (d block). The composite C block is 3 degrees taller than the D block, this is why when you have the same dot on both blocks you still have 3 degrees antisquat.
If you want less antisquat you would lower the dot on the C block (this puts the front of the hinge pin closer to the chassis). If you run out of adjustment on the C block you can start raising up the dot on the D block (this gives less antisquat because it raises the back of the hinge pin closer to the height of the C block)
Antisquat is the front side (c block) of the hinge pin raised up more from the chassis than the back side (d block). The composite C block is 3 degrees taller than the D block, this is why when you have the same dot on both blocks you still have 3 degrees antisquat.
If you want less antisquat you would lower the dot on the C block (this puts the front of the hinge pin closer to the chassis). If you run out of adjustment on the C block you can start raising up the dot on the D block (this gives less antisquat because it raises the back of the hinge pin closer to the height of the C block)
06-16-2017, 11:59 AM
#5034
Vid of some more action:
https://www.facebook.com/bdb86/video...8775858580024/
This time conditions were a bit on the dry side, so it may be a little wetter next time.
https://www.facebook.com/bdb86/video...8775858580024/
This time conditions were a bit on the dry side, so it may be a little wetter next time.
06-17-2017, 10:02 PM
#5035
Tech Adept
I used to run a tekin 1850kv pro 4 hd/ RX8 4S set up in 410.3
On 4S 16tooth pinion with fans/ heatsink on motor temps hit 45 deg celcius then 70 deg celcius without fans/ heatsink on motor, 2 x 5000 batteries gave 15 min constant runs till lipo cut out on track
On 4S 16tooth pinion with fans/ heatsink on motor temps hit 45 deg celcius then 70 deg celcius without fans/ heatsink on motor, 2 x 5000 batteries gave 15 min constant runs till lipo cut out on track
Last edited by Losixxl2e; 06-22-2017 at 03:30 AM.
06-22-2017, 06:35 AM
#5036
Tech Adept
hi guys
I bought a sct410.3 sometime ago but i didn't get a chance to run it till today due to some issues and it seems it makes a screaming sound when it's running and the gears don't seem to mesh well (some sort of jitter noise at the drive shaft)
I've tried moving the motor and pinion gear closer to the spur gear but there's no improvement,
https://youtu.be/btr73y8DGZg
I bought a sct410.3 sometime ago but i didn't get a chance to run it till today due to some issues and it seems it makes a screaming sound when it's running and the gears don't seem to mesh well (some sort of jitter noise at the drive shaft)
I've tried moving the motor and pinion gear closer to the spur gear but there's no improvement,
https://youtu.be/btr73y8DGZg
06-22-2017, 08:13 AM
#5037
hi guys
I bought a sct410.3 sometime ago but i didn't get a chance to run it till today due to some issues and it seems it makes a screaming sound when it's running and the gears don't seem to mesh well (some sort of jitter noise at the drive shaft)
I've tried moving the motor and pinion gear closer to the spur gear but there's no improvement,
https://youtu.be/btr73y8DGZg
I bought a sct410.3 sometime ago but i didn't get a chance to run it till today due to some issues and it seems it makes a screaming sound when it's running and the gears don't seem to mesh well (some sort of jitter noise at the drive shaft)
I've tried moving the motor and pinion gear closer to the spur gear but there's no improvement,
https://youtu.be/btr73y8DGZg
06-22-2017, 08:56 AM
#5038
anyone have some recent opinions going with the "standard" setup from the diff perspective on loamy surfaces? Running 7-7-3 here but still curious about the 15-15-10 setup .
I may give it a try if I can find some spare diffs here too, but still curious on first hand experiences.
I may give it a try if I can find some spare diffs here too, but still curious on first hand experiences.
06-22-2017, 09:18 AM
#5039
Tech Master
anyone have some recent opinions going with the "standard" setup from the diff perspective on loamy surfaces? Running 7-7-3 here but still curious about the 15-15-10 setup .
I may give it a try if I can find some spare diffs here too, but still curious on first hand experiences.
I may give it a try if I can find some spare diffs here too, but still curious on first hand experiences.
06-22-2017, 09:19 AM
#5040
Tech Master
If your running your buggy for 30-45 minutes, you need to stop. I assume by running it that long, your running to LVC, which is bad for the health of your batteries. Which also makes me ask if you keep your batteries at storage charge when not in use?
I run for 10-12 minutes at a time with buggy or truggy. And usually during practice I'm using my 7200mah batteries, and run for 10 minutes with my SCT.
Best practice is to have 2 packs for each vehicle, and run them on rotation. Some people have 3. While your running, a pack is charging, and no issues.
I run for 10-12 minutes at a time with buggy or truggy. And usually during practice I'm using my 7200mah batteries, and run for 10 minutes with my SCT.
Best practice is to have 2 packs for each vehicle, and run them on rotation. Some people have 3. While your running, a pack is charging, and no issues.