Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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#1606
The droop screws limit the suspension's down travel. So, thread the screws all the way in... Then back each screw out about 4 full 360 degree turns. Count the turns carefully. Once all 4 screws are backed out evenly, then measure the distance between the upper & lower shock mounts. Front should be 105mm. Rear should be 120mm
#1607
Tech Regular
Anyone ever mount a truggy body on one of these. Just trying to switch it up a bit. A nice low riding truggy body would be nice.
#1608
Has anyone tried putting the orange springs on the rear just to stiffen it up?
My truck is set up according to the stock setup and was wondering what this adjustment only might do.......Thanks.
My truck is set up according to the stock setup and was wondering what this adjustment only might do.......Thanks.
#1609
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
To measure droop, you just put the truck onto a stand with the suspension fully extended. It helps to do this with the wheels off. Then you simply measure from shock mount to shock mount center to center.
The droop screws limit the suspension's down travel. So, thread the screws all the way in... Then back each screw out about 4 full 360 degree turns. Count the turns carefully. Once all 4 screws are backed out evenly, then measure the distance between the upper & lower shock mounts. Front should be 105mm. Rear should be 120mm
The droop screws limit the suspension's down travel. So, thread the screws all the way in... Then back each screw out about 4 full 360 degree turns. Count the turns carefully. Once all 4 screws are backed out evenly, then measure the distance between the upper & lower shock mounts. Front should be 105mm. Rear should be 120mm
#1610
Tech Initiate
Hello, would anyone be able to explain the difference is between the "standard build" or the "emulsion build" for the shocks and how it will effect the setup and handling?
Thank you in advance.
Alex
Thank you in advance.
Alex
#1611
Tech Regular
Most of you wont care but someone will lol. Dremeled the lower mount slot to fit a 25 tooth pinion and using a castle 36mm 2400 motor on 5s with 2.8 g loc tires and an eb48 body with no wing did 80.4 mph on GPS lol. Just wanted to see how fast it would go with parts I had.
And the composite diff pins held up hahahahaha
And the composite diff pins held up hahahahaha
#1612
The standard build uses the bladder to keep the air separate from the oil. The oil is below the bladder, the air is above the bladder. They do not mix.
The emulsion build, there is no bladder... Just an O ring to seal the cap. The air & the oil actually mix creating frothy air filled oil. I've run both. Unless you are a pro and have vast experience with suspension testing & tuning, the average Joe most likely will not notice a difference.
The emulsion build feels softer to me across the board. I'm still playing with different set ups. But I will share so far what I've found out to work for me. You must 100% be sure to run the shock boots provided especially outdoors. With out the boots dirt will get inside the shocks and that's not good. I rebuild my shocks after every race.
Also, buy the Delrin shock parts. The stock ones suck. The Delrin will allow your shocks to operate smoother and more consistent.
I've been running on a large very rough outdoor track,
Dusty and low bite. 17T pinion
My diffs are 5/5/2. Traction-wise my truck is hooked... My ass end is planted and it also turns very well. I'm just working on my driving now and picking good lines. Made my first A main last weekend, I've been racing for 3 months.
2 degrees toe out in the front.
2 degrees camber all around.
My droop is 105 front & 120 rear.
I run AKA Impacts, Proline Square Fuzzies & JConcepts Lil' Chasers, also Proline Holeshots, and Blockades are excellent. As well as HB Megabites all on DE Boggego wheels.
Front:
32 weight oil (Losi)
Black Tekno springs
Rear 30 weght oil (Losi)
Green Tekno springs
I'm running Red CSI pistons now, and they work pretty good.
But I just bought the 6x1.5 Tekno pistons I will be testing next week end.
The emulsion build, there is no bladder... Just an O ring to seal the cap. The air & the oil actually mix creating frothy air filled oil. I've run both. Unless you are a pro and have vast experience with suspension testing & tuning, the average Joe most likely will not notice a difference.
The emulsion build feels softer to me across the board. I'm still playing with different set ups. But I will share so far what I've found out to work for me. You must 100% be sure to run the shock boots provided especially outdoors. With out the boots dirt will get inside the shocks and that's not good. I rebuild my shocks after every race.
Also, buy the Delrin shock parts. The stock ones suck. The Delrin will allow your shocks to operate smoother and more consistent.
I've been running on a large very rough outdoor track,
Dusty and low bite. 17T pinion
My diffs are 5/5/2. Traction-wise my truck is hooked... My ass end is planted and it also turns very well. I'm just working on my driving now and picking good lines. Made my first A main last weekend, I've been racing for 3 months.
2 degrees toe out in the front.
2 degrees camber all around.
My droop is 105 front & 120 rear.
I run AKA Impacts, Proline Square Fuzzies & JConcepts Lil' Chasers, also Proline Holeshots, and Blockades are excellent. As well as HB Megabites all on DE Boggego wheels.
Front:
32 weight oil (Losi)
Black Tekno springs
Rear 30 weght oil (Losi)
Green Tekno springs
I'm running Red CSI pistons now, and they work pretty good.
But I just bought the 6x1.5 Tekno pistons I will be testing next week end.
Last edited by Barillms; 07-18-2015 at 03:56 PM.
#1613
Tech Initiate
The standard build uses the bladder to keep the air separate from the oil. The oil is below the bladder, the air is above the bladder. They do not mix.
The emulsion build, there is no bladder... Just an O ring to seal the cap. The air & the oil actually mix creating frothy air filled oil. I've run both. Unless you are a pro and have vast experience with suspension testing & tuning, the average Joe most likely will not notice a difference.
The emulsion build feels softer to me across the board. I'm still playing with different set ups. But I will share so far what I've found out to work for me. You must 100% be sure to run the shock boots provided especially outdoors. With out the boots dirt will get inside the shocks and that's not good. I rebuild my shocks after every race.
Also, buy the Delrin shock parts. The stock ones suck. The Delrin will allow your shocks to operate smoother and more consistent.
I've been running on a large very rough outdoor track,
Dusty and low bite. 17T pinion
My diffs are 5/5/2. Traction-wise my truck is hooked... My ass end is planted and it also turns very well. I'm just working on my driving now and picking good lines. Made my first A main last weekend, I've been racing for 3 months.
2 degrees toe out in the front.
2 degrees camber all around.
My droop is 105 front & 120 rear.
I run AKA Impacts, Proline Square Fuzzies & JConcepts Lil' Chasers, also Proline Holeshots, and Blockades are excellent. As well as HB Megabites all on DE Boggego wheels.
Front:
32 weight oil (Losi)
Black Tekno springs
Rear 30 weght oil (Losi)
Green Tekno springs
I'm running Red CSI pistons now, and they work pretty good.
But I just bought the 6x1.5 Tekno pistons I will be testing next week end.
The emulsion build, there is no bladder... Just an O ring to seal the cap. The air & the oil actually mix creating frothy air filled oil. I've run both. Unless you are a pro and have vast experience with suspension testing & tuning, the average Joe most likely will not notice a difference.
The emulsion build feels softer to me across the board. I'm still playing with different set ups. But I will share so far what I've found out to work for me. You must 100% be sure to run the shock boots provided especially outdoors. With out the boots dirt will get inside the shocks and that's not good. I rebuild my shocks after every race.
Also, buy the Delrin shock parts. The stock ones suck. The Delrin will allow your shocks to operate smoother and more consistent.
I've been running on a large very rough outdoor track,
Dusty and low bite. 17T pinion
My diffs are 5/5/2. Traction-wise my truck is hooked... My ass end is planted and it also turns very well. I'm just working on my driving now and picking good lines. Made my first A main last weekend, I've been racing for 3 months.
2 degrees toe out in the front.
2 degrees camber all around.
My droop is 105 front & 120 rear.
I run AKA Impacts, Proline Square Fuzzies & JConcepts Lil' Chasers, also Proline Holeshots, and Blockades are excellent. As well as HB Megabites all on DE Boggego wheels.
Front:
32 weight oil (Losi)
Black Tekno springs
Rear 30 weght oil (Losi)
Green Tekno springs
I'm running Red CSI pistons now, and they work pretty good.
But I just bought the 6x1.5 Tekno pistons I will be testing next week end.
Hi thanks for getting back to me, I'll mainly be racing on AstroTurf as theres only a few dirt tracks in the UK. The stock setup seems to work well around my track with a few small changes.
What shock setup would you pick?
#1614
broke my first thing on the SCT410.3... and it's a strange one... shock bladder! Somehow got a hole in the middle... was very small, hard to notice until you kind of stretched it out, but it was leaking a good amount of oil because of the hole... a bit messy and annoying, but at least the truck still actually drove pretty well for about 6 packs after I noticed the leak, just filled a little oil every once in a while.
Question, I ran the stock vented setup, if i were running the emulsion setup I wouldn't have to deal with holes in bladders... think it's worth making the change for?
Thanks.
Question, I ran the stock vented setup, if i were running the emulsion setup I wouldn't have to deal with holes in bladders... think it's worth making the change for?
Thanks.
#1615
I took the shocks off, and the arms still don't go down far enough for the droop screws to touch the chassis when they are fully screwed in. Seems like it may be the tie rods or camber links, because I made sure that the arms moved very nice before installing. And they seem to move freely with the shocks disconnected. Anyway I ran a couple packs through it and it worked great. Had it all set as box setup except I ran 30wt oil and green springs in the rear and the 1.5 pistons all the way around. For the droop, I just turned the screws down till they touched the chassis, since droop was 105 like that. Thanks
#1616
The chassis isnt supposed to touch the droop screws when the screws are all the way in. Back the droop screws out approximately 4 full turns. This will get you close to what you should be running if you don't feel like measuring.
#1617
After you find a spring & oil combo you like, then you can start fooling with different pistons and Bladder vs. Emulsion. I think I like emulsion better.
Everybody I've spoken to have said the Tekno 6x1.5 pistons are a must have.
#1618
Tech Addict
iTrader: (21)
It's hard to say considering your on turf and I'm in low bite rough outdoor dusty dirt track. Buy Pink front & rear springs, and black fronts & Green Rears. And start playing with them until you find something you like. There's no way to just tell you what to run. It's all gotta be done thru trial & error. I like 32.5 w/ Blacks up front and 30 w/ Greens in Rear. It's a good balanced set up for my local off-road track.
After you find a spring & oil combo you like, then you can start fooling with different pistons and Bladder vs. Emulsion. I think I like emulsion better.
Everybody I've spoken to have said the Tekno 6x1.5 pistons are a must have.
After you find a spring & oil combo you like, then you can start fooling with different pistons and Bladder vs. Emulsion. I think I like emulsion better.
Everybody I've spoken to have said the Tekno 6x1.5 pistons are a must have.
#1619
Tech Adept
anyone knows whether this kit shares the same body posts position as the traxxas slash 4x4?
reason for asking this is because I intend to get a ford 150 svt body shell and it's designed for the traxxas (which requires extended body posts). but it doesn't seem to have pre-cut holes for body shells.
reason for asking this is because I intend to get a ford 150 svt body shell and it's designed for the traxxas (which requires extended body posts). but it doesn't seem to have pre-cut holes for body shells.
#1620
Do I need any spare parts for this truck what breaks the most