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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Old 09-05-2022, 08:19 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: rustyus
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.




Hinge Pin Insert Chart:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.





















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Old 07-17-2015, 06:47 AM
  #1606  
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Originally Posted by qstorm777
If you take your shocks off, do the droop screws touch the chassis? And also, approx. how long are your shocks fully extended measuring from center of the top and bottom mount holes when off the truck?
To measure droop, you just put the truck onto a stand with the suspension fully extended. It helps to do this with the wheels off. Then you simply measure from shock mount to shock mount center to center.

The droop screws limit the suspension's down travel. So, thread the screws all the way in... Then back each screw out about 4 full 360 degree turns. Count the turns carefully. Once all 4 screws are backed out evenly, then measure the distance between the upper & lower shock mounts. Front should be 105mm. Rear should be 120mm
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Old 07-17-2015, 07:34 AM
  #1607  
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Anyone ever mount a truggy body on one of these. Just trying to switch it up a bit. A nice low riding truggy body would be nice.
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Old 07-17-2015, 03:24 PM
  #1608  
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Has anyone tried putting the orange springs on the rear just to stiffen it up?
My truck is set up according to the stock setup and was wondering what this adjustment only might do.......Thanks.
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Old 07-17-2015, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Barillms
To measure droop, you just put the truck onto a stand with the suspension fully extended. It helps to do this with the wheels off. Then you simply measure from shock mount to shock mount center to center.

The droop screws limit the suspension's down travel. So, thread the screws all the way in... Then back each screw out about 4 full 360 degree turns. Count the turns carefully. Once all 4 screws are backed out evenly, then measure the distance between the upper & lower shock mounts. Front should be 105mm. Rear should be 120mm
Right. But he says his droop screws aren't touching the chassis so I'm wondering if they touch without the springs attached. Second, I was wondering if for some reason his shocks weren't long enough to obtain the proper length.
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Old 07-18-2015, 06:28 AM
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Hello, would anyone be able to explain the difference is between the "standard build" or the "emulsion build" for the shocks and how it will effect the setup and handling?

Thank you in advance.


Alex
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Old 07-18-2015, 11:19 AM
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Most of you wont care but someone will lol. Dremeled the lower mount slot to fit a 25 tooth pinion and using a castle 36mm 2400 motor on 5s with 2.8 g loc tires and an eb48 body with no wing did 80.4 mph on GPS lol. Just wanted to see how fast it would go with parts I had.
And the composite diff pins held up hahahahaha
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Old 07-18-2015, 03:45 PM
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The standard build uses the bladder to keep the air separate from the oil. The oil is below the bladder, the air is above the bladder. They do not mix.

The emulsion build, there is no bladder... Just an O ring to seal the cap. The air & the oil actually mix creating frothy air filled oil. I've run both. Unless you are a pro and have vast experience with suspension testing & tuning, the average Joe most likely will not notice a difference.

The emulsion build feels softer to me across the board. I'm still playing with different set ups. But I will share so far what I've found out to work for me. You must 100% be sure to run the shock boots provided especially outdoors. With out the boots dirt will get inside the shocks and that's not good. I rebuild my shocks after every race.

Also, buy the Delrin shock parts. The stock ones suck. The Delrin will allow your shocks to operate smoother and more consistent.

I've been running on a large very rough outdoor track,
Dusty and low bite. 17T pinion
My diffs are 5/5/2. Traction-wise my truck is hooked... My ass end is planted and it also turns very well. I'm just working on my driving now and picking good lines. Made my first A main last weekend, I've been racing for 3 months.

2 degrees toe out in the front.
2 degrees camber all around.
My droop is 105 front & 120 rear.
I run AKA Impacts, Proline Square Fuzzies & JConcepts Lil' Chasers, also Proline Holeshots, and Blockades are excellent. As well as HB Megabites all on DE Boggego wheels.

Front:
32 weight oil (Losi)
Black Tekno springs

Rear 30 weght oil (Losi)
Green Tekno springs

I'm running Red CSI pistons now, and they work pretty good.
But I just bought the 6x1.5 Tekno pistons I will be testing next week end.

Last edited by Barillms; 07-18-2015 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 07-19-2015, 12:25 AM
  #1613  
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Originally Posted by Barillms
The standard build uses the bladder to keep the air separate from the oil. The oil is below the bladder, the air is above the bladder. They do not mix.

The emulsion build, there is no bladder... Just an O ring to seal the cap. The air & the oil actually mix creating frothy air filled oil. I've run both. Unless you are a pro and have vast experience with suspension testing & tuning, the average Joe most likely will not notice a difference.

The emulsion build feels softer to me across the board. I'm still playing with different set ups. But I will share so far what I've found out to work for me. You must 100% be sure to run the shock boots provided especially outdoors. With out the boots dirt will get inside the shocks and that's not good. I rebuild my shocks after every race.

Also, buy the Delrin shock parts. The stock ones suck. The Delrin will allow your shocks to operate smoother and more consistent.

I've been running on a large very rough outdoor track,
Dusty and low bite. 17T pinion
My diffs are 5/5/2. Traction-wise my truck is hooked... My ass end is planted and it also turns very well. I'm just working on my driving now and picking good lines. Made my first A main last weekend, I've been racing for 3 months.

2 degrees toe out in the front.
2 degrees camber all around.
My droop is 105 front & 120 rear.
I run AKA Impacts, Proline Square Fuzzies & JConcepts Lil' Chasers, also Proline Holeshots, and Blockades are excellent. As well as HB Megabites all on DE Boggego wheels.

Front:
32 weight oil (Losi)
Black Tekno springs

Rear 30 weght oil (Losi)
Green Tekno springs

I'm running Red CSI pistons now, and they work pretty good.
But I just bought the 6x1.5 Tekno pistons I will be testing next week end.

Hi thanks for getting back to me, I'll mainly be racing on AstroTurf as theres only a few dirt tracks in the UK. The stock setup seems to work well around my track with a few small changes.

What shock setup would you pick?
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Old 07-19-2015, 11:19 AM
  #1614  
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broke my first thing on the SCT410.3... and it's a strange one... shock bladder! Somehow got a hole in the middle... was very small, hard to notice until you kind of stretched it out, but it was leaking a good amount of oil because of the hole... a bit messy and annoying, but at least the truck still actually drove pretty well for about 6 packs after I noticed the leak, just filled a little oil every once in a while.

Question, I ran the stock vented setup, if i were running the emulsion setup I wouldn't have to deal with holes in bladders... think it's worth making the change for?

Thanks.
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Old 07-19-2015, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by qstorm777
Right. But he says his droop screws aren't touching the chassis so I'm wondering if they touch without the springs attached. Second, I was wondering if for some reason his shocks weren't long enough to obtain the proper length.
I took the shocks off, and the arms still don't go down far enough for the droop screws to touch the chassis when they are fully screwed in. Seems like it may be the tie rods or camber links, because I made sure that the arms moved very nice before installing. And they seem to move freely with the shocks disconnected. Anyway I ran a couple packs through it and it worked great. Had it all set as box setup except I ran 30wt oil and green springs in the rear and the 1.5 pistons all the way around. For the droop, I just turned the screws down till they touched the chassis, since droop was 105 like that. Thanks
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Old 07-19-2015, 05:54 PM
  #1616  
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The chassis isnt supposed to touch the droop screws when the screws are all the way in. Back the droop screws out approximately 4 full turns. This will get you close to what you should be running if you don't feel like measuring.
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Old 07-19-2015, 06:02 PM
  #1617  
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Originally Posted by Millsy97
Hi thanks for getting back to me, I'll mainly be racing on AstroTurf as theres only a few dirt tracks in the UK. The stock setup seems to work well around my track with a few small changes.

What shock setup would you pick?
It's hard to say considering your on turf and I'm in low bite rough outdoor dusty dirt track. Buy Pink front & rear springs, and black fronts & Green Rears. And start playing with them until you find something you like. There's no way to just tell you what to run. It's all gotta be done thru trial & error. I like 32.5 w/ Blacks up front and 30 w/ Greens in Rear. It's a good balanced set up for my local off-road track.

After you find a spring & oil combo you like, then you can start fooling with different pistons and Bladder vs. Emulsion. I think I like emulsion better.

Everybody I've spoken to have said the Tekno 6x1.5 pistons are a must have.
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Old 07-19-2015, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Barillms
It's hard to say considering your on turf and I'm in low bite rough outdoor dusty dirt track. Buy Pink front & rear springs, and black fronts & Green Rears. And start playing with them until you find something you like. There's no way to just tell you what to run. It's all gotta be done thru trial & error. I like 32.5 w/ Blacks up front and 30 w/ Greens in Rear. It's a good balanced set up for my local off-road track.

After you find a spring & oil combo you like, then you can start fooling with different pistons and Bladder vs. Emulsion. I think I like emulsion better.

Everybody I've spoken to have said the Tekno 6x1.5 pistons are a must have.
I am not sure that the 6X1.5's are going to be best for Astro or any high bite track though, I am running the stock pistons with all the cnc shock parts and my truck is working VERY good on high bite surface. I do plan to play with pistons though as soon as this season is over to see if I can get it better.
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Old 07-20-2015, 04:57 AM
  #1619  
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anyone knows whether this kit shares the same body posts position as the traxxas slash 4x4?


reason for asking this is because I intend to get a ford 150 svt body shell and it's designed for the traxxas (which requires extended body posts). but it doesn't seem to have pre-cut holes for body shells.
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Old 07-20-2015, 05:56 AM
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Do I need any spare parts for this truck what breaks the most
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