Tom Hax

Yes, I think you have a tear in the bladder. I read some people have some chafing of the bladder from some flashing left behind after drilling the hole. I would take a look there. ~Tom

JoeRC123

Jumpingstone

Hi. I am new to RC scene and I want to built RC truck to my 5 years old daughter (and for myself). I have purchaded second hand rolling sct410. Now i have questions regarding this my monster truck project. I am planning to buy 17mm Hex adapters tkr5570-17, 1/8 truggy tires and wheels, 1/8 120A ESC, 2650KV motor and 15t pinion, 2s or 3s battery and some monster body.

Any thoughts? Is this going to be good combination? Is it gearing too high with truggy tires? Can i use 0 off set wheels, or is it 1/2 off set better?

chucko

iTrader: (3)

Can some one post up a set up sheet for dirt.?????????????. I am going to buy this unit.. BUT most of the set ups are for carpet and clay I run out door loose hard pack, sometimes wet between classes. oils, springs, I will be running a 4600 on 2;s tekin. thanks

FastPete

iTrader: (44)

Any of these help?

https://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5507...b-setup-sheets

lexusbest

Hi! I'm gonna pick a new sct410.3 on a budget. Could i use HW ezrun max10 sct electronics? The motor has 3.175mm shaft.
thank you in advance!

FastPete

iTrader: (44)

What are you going to use it for?

lowspark

iTrader: (7)

Chucko, here is my current set-up sheet.
See the notes in the Electronics section noted for Shaws which is hard pack,but gets blown out and loose later in the day. I also raise the ride height a touch.

lexusbest

just playing. The motor has 5mm shaft, my mistake

BigBassBrent

Hello and thanks to all the contributors to this thread. I've read it a few times now and learned a ton. I have less than a year RC experience at this point so I am kinda like a sponge, soaking it all in.

I built my 410.3 a couple months ago as a 4s machine for my home track. Later I found out that I am only 30 minutes away from one of the best tracks in Texas, Thornhill Raceway. So now I plan to race on their indooor carpet track as a beginner and eventually progress to the 1/8 scale dirt track with 4wd buggy.

I rebuilt the truck this past week and used the Munn AstroTurf setup sheet. I deviated from the setup with my own shock combo. I installed a HW XERUN 5100kv motor to go with the XR8 ESC already in the truck. Currently have a 15T pinion installed. I'm not sure this was the best motor choice but I'm going to work with it. Already looking at motor fans.

With the box setup I was one of the folks who couldn't achieve ride height. I couldn't get it down low enough. Since my home track is bumpy with big jumps I didn't worry about it. On this recent rebuild, I was able to achieve the 19mm ride height prescribed in the setup. I think there were two main factors. One, the factory springs are too long to get that low. I installed the low frequency green springs all the way around. They are shorter. I have a set of LF pinks for further tuning. Second was my shock build. I was running nonvented bladder shocks previously. When I built them with no rebound, they still had rebound. I assume because the area above the bladder is sealed and builds pressure during compression. I vented the cap this time and the result was a a no rebound shock. Once everything was installed I had to actually tighten the spring tensioners to come up to ride height.

I have a setup question I'm hoping someone can answer. When setting ride height, front toe and f&r camber, what is the order of operations? I started with ride height, then should I adjust camber, then recheck ride height? I know ride height affects camber and vice versa.

Im also having a problem with replacement front a arms. After intalling them, there is now a gap, 3mm or so, between the arm and the blocks. The arm now moves forward and backwards on the pin. I didn't have the issue with the box parts setup. I saw someone else had this issue in this thread but it was never addressed. For now I've simply put one of those C spacers on the pin to take up the slop but I feel that it's a bandaid and there is some other issue.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Tom Hax

Hi chaps, I’m new to short course and took my truck out for the first time. The track is hard packed clay with some loose dust on top and I was struggling to keep the rear from spinning out. I’ve never really had to tune my buggy to get “neutral” handling so I was wondering what would be the biggest factor in helping to stabilize the rear and keep it from spinning 180’s both on and off throttle?
I’ve built it stock. One thing I was pleased about was the jumping. I had read people having a nose down issue but I found it capable of nose down or nose up depending on how I applied the throttle and very quickly I was landing nicely on the downhill ramp of the second jump.
I just need to get the 180 spins fixed and I think I will be very happy. :-)
-Tom

chucko

iTrader: (3)

Hi Tom sounds like diff oils.. it might help to post up what your running. tires are 80% throttle finger and gearing is 10% Driving is everything. shock oils and angles are important along with ride height droop springs so on and on.

FastPete

iTrader: (44)

That will work well.

Tom Hax

Thanks for the offer of help. I raced yesterday and gave my truck to a couple of the faster guys to see how they liked it. They said it wasn't bad. But I was struggling, for instance at the end of the straight I could spin out 180 degrees or on a sweeping turn, the rear can start to come around. I was advised to loosen the rear anti roll bar screws but not many other suggestions.

Set up is : AKA city block tyres, shocks 350 front, 200 rear with green and black springs respectively. Front has shocks on inside hole on tower, inside on arm with camber link on B2. Center dots for sweep and kick up.

Rear has shocks second hole from inside on tower, inside on arm. Camber link on B2. Aluminum C block with centre dots on both pills. This reduces anti squat by 1 degree.

Camber is small negative, front toe out is slight. (No tools, I eye ball it with calipers!) Ackermann on rear hole. I know I have now changed a few things from stock. I haven't made it worse but no better either.

Diff oils are 7000, 7000, 5000. Stock

But maybe I just need to learn SCT. It drives very differently from my buggy which seems to follow the path I want without deviation. I'm told I need to kind of drift the truck. But anyway, I will gladly take any other set up advice.

Kind wishes

Tom

edjo69

Try shimming the rear hubs forward, that will put more weight over the rear tires, you have 5mm to play with, cant remember what stock is but check your hubs.