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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Old 10-10-2017, 01:54 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 03-22-2019, 04:33 PM
  #5836  
mkl
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use these
https://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5569...ed-wpins-2pcs/
https://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5580...ed-steel-2pcs/
You can also use these but you have to drill out the center bore to fit
https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxas...a5353r/p236845
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Old 03-22-2019, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by mkl View Post

+1 on the TEKNO Original parts. I tried the M2C adaptors but they didn’t last more than 10 packs.
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Old 03-23-2019, 07:26 AM
  #5838  
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Great, thanks
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Old 03-23-2019, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by thecaptain View Post
Can anyone tell me the differences to spot between a the .3 and .2 models?
The easiest way is to look at the bottom of the a arms. The bottom of the arms on the .3 are smooth, where as the .1 are not.
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Old 03-24-2019, 01:23 PM
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Hey guys,

Is there a way to run the shocks on the front of the rear tower for high bite clay?
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Old 03-25-2019, 10:31 AM
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Howdy, I've spent the last few hours trawling through this thread but couldn't find a real answer to my question... just finished building my 410.3 kit and the thing I noticed was that the front control arms had a decent amount of forward and backwards play... meaning they could slide on the hinge pins, maybe the distance of the thickness of two pennies. I had two extra plastic circular washers from building the shocks so I threw them in front of the arms since they happen to fit perfectly on the hinge pins. This has got rid of my slack but it also moves the arms back a hair. I guess what I'm asking is this a normal condition for this kit? My back end control arms by comparison are nice and tight. I've taken the front end apart a couple times thinking maybe I didn't have it together right but all seems good. I appreciate any assistance!

Last edited by azzwethinkweiz; 03-25-2019 at 11:07 AM.
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Old 03-25-2019, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by azzwethinkweiz View Post
Howdy, I've spent the last few hours trawling through this thread but couldn't find a real answer to my question... just finished building my 410.3 kit and the thing I noticed was that the front control arms had a decent amount of forward and backwards play... meaning they could slide on the hinge pins, maybe the distance of the thickness of two pennies. I had two extra plastic circular washers from building the shocks so I threw them in front of the arms since they happen to fit perfectly on the hinge pins. This has got rid of my slack but it also moves the arms back a hair. I guess what I'm asking is this a normal condition for this kit? My back end control arms by comparison are nice and tight. I've taken the front end apart a couple times thinking maybe I didn't have it together right but all seems good. I appreciate any assistance!
This doesn't help you, but I noticed the same thing on a newer roller I just picked up. My 2 to 3 year older model has hardly any play from the front arms, between the a and b hinges. It's either the arms, or the gearbox causing it.
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Old 03-25-2019, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by dbld49 View Post
This doesn't help you, but I noticed the same thing on a newer roller I just picked up. My 2 to 3 year older model has hardly any play from the front arms, between the a and b hinges. It's either the arms, or the gearbox causing it.
Well I'm kind of glad someone else noticed it. Im only concerned because in the instructions it states how drasticly the handling is altered by the movement of the arms and drive shaft... And being that it has that amount of play it got me wondering. It will be a bit before I can run the truck anyways to see how it does... Might have to mess with different thickness spacers on either side of the arms hinge pins in between the a and b blocks. Right now I just have spacers behind the a block.
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Old 03-25-2019, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by azzwethinkweiz View Post
Well I'm kind of glad someone else noticed it. Im only concerned because in the instructions it states how drasticly the handling is altered by the movement of the arms and drive shaft... And being that it has that amount of play it got me wondering. It will be a bit before I can run the truck anyways to see how it does... Might have to mess with different thickness spacers on either side of the arms hinge pins in between the a and b blocks. Right now I just have spacers behind the a block.
seams to me I would run long base for big sweeping tracks,... short for tight small track. its nice to have that adjustment if your technical ...and the arms should have a tiny bit of looseness. not slop JMO go race it
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Old 03-25-2019, 10:11 PM
  #5845  
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I've been away from rc for a while so trying to catch up. I had several people at the hobby shop talking about how good this truck was and that it was virtually impossible to break. I was wondering how much truth there is to this. I was also wondering how well they compete with the losi 3.0 on the track.
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Old 03-26-2019, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Owl View Post
I've been away from rc for a while so trying to catch up. I had several people at the hobby shop talking about how good this truck was and that it was virtually impossible to break. I was wondering how much truth there is to this. I was also wondering how well they compete with the losi 3.0 on the track.
Anything can break but this truck is as tough as they get. I have gone through front spindles from slamming into the wall in a sweeper. They break at the base of the steering arm. Yes it was bone head driving I know. Also the axle stubs get hogged out where the pins go through, and the pins get thin at the ends. This is all consumable stuff to me. The worse part is how fast the bodies get beat to hell. It’s way tougher than anything out there especially the Losi.

Last edited by JoeRC123; 03-28-2019 at 10:16 AM.
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Old 04-02-2019, 06:01 AM
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Is everybody using an steering servo extension or is there a specific servo that you're using? I don't like the idea of having a extension lead. And is anybody running the bittydesign black hawk body? I know their buggy bodies are thin so I was curious if this is as thin?
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Old 04-03-2019, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by hyperfuxx View Post
Is everybody using an steering servo extension or is there a specific servo that you're using? I don't like the idea of having a extension lead. And is anybody running the bittydesign black hawk body? I know their buggy bodies are thin so I was curious if this is as thin?
No extension needed. Protek 130 is what I use and has taken a serious beating for lap after lap. What do you think Celt?
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Old 04-05-2019, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by azzwethinkweiz View Post
Howdy, I've spent the last few hours trawling through this thread but couldn't find a real answer to my question... just finished building my 410.3 kit and the thing I noticed was that the front control arms had a decent amount of forward and backwards play... meaning they could slide on the hinge pins, maybe the distance of the thickness of two pennies. I had two extra plastic circular washers from building the shocks so I threw them in front of the arms since they happen to fit perfectly on the hinge pins. This has got rid of my slack but it also moves the arms back a hair. I guess what I'm asking is this a normal condition for this kit? My back end control arms by comparison are nice and tight. I've taken the front end apart a couple times thinking maybe I didn't have it together right but all seems good. I appreciate any assistance!
I just finished my new kit. I did upgrade all four a,b,c,d. hinges to aluminum I have barely any room/play.
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Old 05-06-2019, 06:49 AM
  #5850  
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Anybody have an excess of left hand side steering spindles TKR5541B they want to trade for right hand? Even up, no money involved. Sick of buying the pair and only using one. I think I have a half dozen RH.
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