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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Old 09-05-2022, 08:19 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: rustyus
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.




Hinge Pin Insert Chart:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.





















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Old 07-24-2017, 10:47 AM
  #5116  
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Originally Posted by gawith0413
I thought I saw the .4 buggy on their site already.
It's not the .4 buggy. I'm talking about their 4wd 1/10 buggy coming at the end of Summer
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Old 07-24-2017, 11:00 AM
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Last edited by vettehigh; 07-29-2017 at 06:30 AM.
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Old 07-24-2017, 06:09 PM
  #5118  
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Originally Posted by Cain
Thanks for the info and I see the pills charts on the bottom.

I guess my question is more so to get a better understanding of how the angle of the pin possibly affects things.

So for example, I have the zero antisquat setting up front, but the max high pill setting in the rear giving that downward sloping angle going Rear to Front. I am assuming Roll Center, etc.

Something like this kind of chart is what I am thinking:

https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c...Pill-Chart.pdf

Thanks for your help!
If you go here and click on the "Calculating Inner Hinge Pin Degrees" tab you should be able to see everything you need.
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Old 07-25-2017, 07:15 AM
  #5119  
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My brother and I have decided to get the truck, but we were wondering if we should stick the kit setup or is there a better updated one?
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Old 07-25-2017, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by gawith0413
My brother and I have decided to get the truck, but we were wondering if we should stick the kit setup or is there a better updated one?
For a good starting point I would start here

http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...oor%20Dirt.pdf

I think this will get you pretty dialed, its a great setup with minimal changes needed.
Cain and Bob Barry like this.
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Old 07-25-2017, 09:17 AM
  #5121  
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Originally Posted by hoyt1967
For a good starting point I would start here

http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...oor%20Dirt.pdf

I think this will get you pretty dialed, its a great setup with minimal changes needed.
I second that suggestion. Works great, although I have switched to 10-7-5 for diffs
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Old 07-25-2017, 10:30 AM
  #5122  
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
If you go here and click on the "Calculating Inner Hinge Pin Degrees" tab you should be able to see everything you need.
Thanks!

Another question, do you recommend running a minimum amount of diff shims? For example, you run one on each side always?
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Old 07-25-2017, 10:39 AM
  #5123  
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Originally Posted by Cain
Thanks!

Another question, do you recommend running a minimum amount of diff shims? For example, you run one on each side always?
Diff shims are a case by case need. I've ran none, 1 on either side, 1 on both sides, and 2 on one side. There is no simple answer to that question. Just when the mesh feels good, and there is no loose/binding with side to side pressure.
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Old 07-25-2017, 10:49 AM
  #5124  
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reason I am asking is I noticed something odd last race that had me wondering, some more "metal" noise when driving. I don't notice anything handling wise, feels fine there. But just a more loud vehicle.

And mind you, the vehicle was rebuilt with any questionable bearing replaced with fresh hardware, and fresh diff fluid all around. At the track though I noticed the rear felt tight, so I removed the one shim I had meshwise.
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Old 07-25-2017, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain
reason I am asking is I noticed something odd last race that had me wondering, some more "metal" noise when driving. I don't notice anything handling wise, feels fine there. But just a more loud vehicle.

And mind you, the vehicle was rebuilt with any questionable bearing replaced with fresh hardware, and fresh diff fluid all around. At the track though I noticed the rear felt tight, so I removed the one shim I had meshwise.
Sounds like you were on the right track. usually a loud truck (Well, louder than normal) is a mesh issue, or a bearing issue.
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Old 07-25-2017, 11:41 AM
  #5126  
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Originally Posted by ezlight
Sounds like you were on the right track. usually a loud truck (Well, louder than normal) is a mesh issue, or a bearing issue.
yeah just an odd thing. Of my Tekno vehicles they have all needed at least 1 shim. This one is the first no shims. Hmm, maybe I'll try and different tranny case.
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Old 07-25-2017, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by hoyt1967
For a good starting point I would start here

http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...oor%20Dirt.pdf

I think this will get you pretty dialed, its a great setup with minimal changes needed.

Hey guys, just wanted to let you know that I ran my SCT410.3 this weekend with this setup and it was amazing. Best I've ever felt while driving an SCT. It requires option parts, but it's a great investment if you're an avid SCT racer.
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Old 07-25-2017, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
Hey guys, just wanted to let you know that I ran my SCT410.3 this weekend with this setup and it was amazing. Best I've ever felt while driving an SCT. It requires option parts, but it's a great investment if you're an avid SCT racer.
And for those that don't know Bob, he HATES running SCT, so if he says that, it says A LOT!!!


Glad your finally happy with it bud.
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Old 07-25-2017, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ezlight
Sounds like you were on the right track. usually a loud truck (Well, louder than normal) is a mesh issue, or a bearing issue.
funny little story there..... someone actually asked me what I did to my EB and SCT to get them quiet. In fact they thought I was running a 2wd SCT

All I did was make sure the mesh was right and use grease in the diff case between ring and pinion
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Old 07-25-2017, 02:43 PM
  #5130  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
Hey guys, just wanted to let you know that I ran my SCT410.3 this weekend with this setup and it was amazing. Best I've ever felt while driving an SCT. It requires option parts, but it's a great investment if you're an avid SCT racer.
What all extra is needed?
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