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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Old 10-10-2017, 01:54 PM   -   Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 03-16-2016, 03:38 AM
  #3256  
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Tkr 5086 - Allen screw lock collar @ rear stabilizer

Anyone else strip these out? Alternative upgrade Aluminum collars? Something tells me this is going to be a common accurance.
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Old 03-16-2016, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by SerpJimmy View Post
Tkr 5086 - Allen screw lock collar @ rear stabilizer

Anyone else strip these out? Alternative upgrade Aluminum collars? Something tells me this is going to be a common accurance.
I've never seen them stripped out. The composite collar will deform into an oval before it would strip out. That being said, somebody did find some metal parts from another company. I think they were steel. I'll try to find the info.
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Old 03-16-2016, 10:44 AM
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This is what some folks found to work (I have not tested this myself, but it should be fine).
http://shop.dubro.com/p/dura-collars...ls_axles?pp=12
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Old 03-16-2016, 12:52 PM
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Suggestions for a body that sits lower? Every body I've tried sits too high because of the tall shock towers.
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Old 03-16-2016, 01:20 PM
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Default 4 Tekno SCT 410.3 running a bumpy Astro track in the UK

I posted my pickup truck shell a few pages back. This is where I race every other Sunday. It is more a 1/10th buggy track but the trucks handle the bumps pretty well so are competitive. Here is the first heat, I was doing OK but eventually lost the lead to the UK national SCT champion and never did beat him that day.

Enjoy

https://www.facebook.com/andy.hibber...6913014798225/
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Old 03-16-2016, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Homer723 View Post
Suggestions for a body that sits lower? Every body I've tried sits too high because of the tall shock towers.
The Jcon HF2 sits low and handles great. I had to move a slight amount of
Material for the rear shock caps. It lines up with a air escape vent so wasn't a big deal.
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Old 03-16-2016, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Snorkel54 View Post
Hi guys, been following this thread since the start!

I have a question regarding the rebound of the shocks. On the front pair I get one with zero, but the other, following the same procedure I get 60-70% travel. The same exact thing happens with the rear pair.
If I open the cap on the shock with zero rebound the bladder remains inside the cap, but with the other it is sealed to the shock itself (not in the cap)I run standard vented. Any advise on this?? Its so frustrating not being able to get them more or less the same.
Bladders tend to be a headache compared to emulsion.
Have you considered trying it? Many pro's run emulsion on their 410's, so it might benefit you try it.
Otherwise I don't understand what the deal could be if you are building everything exactly the same
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Old 03-16-2016, 05:02 PM
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Make sure the vent hole isn't clogged on your cap. I use a wire sized drill bit to keep them clean. I can't remember which. Maybe a 58....
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Old 03-16-2016, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Homer723 View Post
Suggestions for a body that sits lower? Every body I've tried sits too high because of the tall shock towers.
A few guys are running the tlr 22sct 2.0 body and it sits pretty low. I'm going to try one.
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Old 03-16-2016, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
This is what some folks found to work (I have not tested this myself, but it should be fine).
http://shop.dubro.com/p/dura-collars...ls_axles?pp=12
yep, those are the ones but the aluminums , If you dont change the stabilizer to often you probably wouldnt have an issue & then the plastics are good enough.

Last edited by SerpJimmy; 03-16-2016 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 03-17-2016, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Bladders tend to be a headache compared to emulsion.
Have you considered trying it? Many pro's run emulsion on their 410's, so it might benefit you try it.
Otherwise I don't understand what the deal could be if you are building everything exactly the same

I might try it if I don't get the vented right. I just need to order new caps first.
How accurate does the rebound need to be matched? +-10% , 20%??
I have used a couple of losi bottles allready, trying to figure out why the other one is rebounding more. It seems like it almost rebounds the same amount, even if I try to compress the piston, and bleed out a more oil...

I do put the bladder inside the cap when installing. The piston is almost fully compressed when I put the cap on. (could it be that the piston are too compressed and touching the bladder when installing the cap?letting in air etc)
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Old 03-17-2016, 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by steve downs View Post
Make sure the vent hole isn't clogged on your cap. I use a wire sized drill bit to keep them clean. I can't remember which. Maybe a 58....
Good point! I used a 2mm drillbit, manually rotating it , to make sure nothing was blocking the vent hole. But it did not fix the problem.
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Old 03-17-2016, 06:26 AM
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When I do a vented bladder build, I fill the shock with oil, hold the bladder gently over the top of the shock, and push the shock shaft all the way up to the rebound that I want. If you want zero rebound you need to do this with the spring seat on otherwise the piston will drive up too far. Once you are at the rebound position you want, pull the shock shaft back down just a little bit to vacuum the bladder down onto the top of the shock and hold it there. Thread the cap on. Not sure if that is the perfect way to do it but that is what I have been doing.
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Old 03-17-2016, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by bds81175 View Post
When I do a vented bladder build, I fill the shock with oil, hold the bladder gently over the top of the shock, and push the shock shaft all the way up to the rebound that I want. If you want zero rebound you need to do this with the spring seat on otherwise the piston will drive up too far. Once you are at the rebound position you want, pull the shock shaft back down just a little bit to vacuum the bladder down onto the top of the shock and hold it there. Thread the cap on. Not sure if that is the perfect way to do it but that is what I have been doing.
Thank you sir! That is a very good explaination, i'm going to test this when I get back home.
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Old 03-17-2016, 11:45 AM
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On the shock rebound issue, I run emulsion myself so not speaking from experience but I have seen from time to time that air will enter the shock through the o-rings at the bottom of the shock body in the cartridge. Maybe just check that everything is seated properly in the ones that are giving you a problem and the o-rings are not torn. Sometimes they can get a tare from the thread on the shaft during installation. Good luck figuring it out and let us know what you find.
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