Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread >

Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

Like Tree219Likes

Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 09-05-2022, 08:19 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: rustyus
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.




Hinge Pin Insert Chart:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.





















Print Wikipost

Old 03-16-2016, 03:38 AM
  #3256  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 294
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Tkr 5086 - Allen screw lock collar @ rear stabilizer

Anyone else strip these out? Alternative upgrade Aluminum collars? Something tells me this is going to be a common accurance.
SerpJimmy is offline  
Old 03-16-2016, 10:41 AM
  #3257  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
 
justpoet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: NH, USA
Posts: 2,063
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by SerpJimmy
Tkr 5086 - Allen screw lock collar @ rear stabilizer

Anyone else strip these out? Alternative upgrade Aluminum collars? Something tells me this is going to be a common accurance.
I've never seen them stripped out. The composite collar will deform into an oval before it would strip out. That being said, somebody did find some metal parts from another company. I think they were steel. I'll try to find the info.
justpoet is offline  
Old 03-16-2016, 10:44 AM
  #3258  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
 
justpoet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: NH, USA
Posts: 2,063
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

This is what some folks found to work (I have not tested this myself, but it should be fine).
http://shop.dubro.com/p/dura-collars...ls_axles?pp=12
justpoet is offline  
Old 03-16-2016, 12:52 PM
  #3259  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 105
Default

Suggestions for a body that sits lower? Every body I've tried sits too high because of the tall shock towers.
Homer723 is offline  
Old 03-16-2016, 01:20 PM
  #3260  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: London UK
Posts: 261
Default 4 Tekno SCT 410.3 running a bumpy Astro track in the UK

I posted my pickup truck shell a few pages back. This is where I race every other Sunday. It is more a 1/10th buggy track but the trucks handle the bumps pretty well so are competitive. Here is the first heat, I was doing OK but eventually lost the lead to the UK national SCT champion and never did beat him that day.

Enjoy

https://www.facebook.com/andy.hibber...6913014798225/
cutting42 is offline  
Old 03-16-2016, 04:22 PM
  #3261  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Huntington, WV
Posts: 426
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Homer723
Suggestions for a body that sits lower? Every body I've tried sits too high because of the tall shock towers.
The Jcon HF2 sits low and handles great. I had to move a slight amount of
Material for the rear shock caps. It lines up with a air escape vent so wasn't a big deal.
steve downs is offline  
Old 03-16-2016, 04:44 PM
  #3262  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
Josh L's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Greenville VA
Posts: 683
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Snorkel54
Hi guys, been following this thread since the start!

I have a question regarding the rebound of the shocks. On the front pair I get one with zero, but the other, following the same procedure I get 60-70% travel. The same exact thing happens with the rear pair.
If I open the cap on the shock with zero rebound the bladder remains inside the cap, but with the other it is sealed to the shock itself (not in the cap)I run standard vented. Any advise on this?? Its so frustrating not being able to get them more or less the same.
Bladders tend to be a headache compared to emulsion.
Have you considered trying it? Many pro's run emulsion on their 410's, so it might benefit you try it.
Otherwise I don't understand what the deal could be if you are building everything exactly the same
Josh L is offline  
Old 03-16-2016, 05:02 PM
  #3263  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Huntington, WV
Posts: 426
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Make sure the vent hole isn't clogged on your cap. I use a wire sized drill bit to keep them clean. I can't remember which. Maybe a 58....
steve downs is offline  
Old 03-16-2016, 05:30 PM
  #3264  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 303
Default

Originally Posted by Homer723
Suggestions for a body that sits lower? Every body I've tried sits too high because of the tall shock towers.
A few guys are running the tlr 22sct 2.0 body and it sits pretty low. I'm going to try one.
4s losi is offline  
Old 03-16-2016, 07:45 PM
  #3265  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 294
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by justpoet
This is what some folks found to work (I have not tested this myself, but it should be fine).
http://shop.dubro.com/p/dura-collars...ls_axles?pp=12
yep, those are the ones but the aluminums , If you dont change the stabilizer to often you probably wouldnt have an issue & then the plastics are good enough.

Last edited by SerpJimmy; 03-16-2016 at 08:35 PM.
SerpJimmy is offline  
Old 03-17-2016, 06:03 AM
  #3266  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 20
Default

Originally Posted by Josh L
Bladders tend to be a headache compared to emulsion.
Have you considered trying it? Many pro's run emulsion on their 410's, so it might benefit you try it.
Otherwise I don't understand what the deal could be if you are building everything exactly the same

I might try it if I don't get the vented right. I just need to order new caps first.
How accurate does the rebound need to be matched? +-10% , 20%??
I have used a couple of losi bottles allready, trying to figure out why the other one is rebounding more. It seems like it almost rebounds the same amount, even if I try to compress the piston, and bleed out a more oil...

I do put the bladder inside the cap when installing. The piston is almost fully compressed when I put the cap on. (could it be that the piston are too compressed and touching the bladder when installing the cap?letting in air etc)
Snorkel54 is offline  
Old 03-17-2016, 06:07 AM
  #3267  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 20
Default

Originally Posted by steve downs
Make sure the vent hole isn't clogged on your cap. I use a wire sized drill bit to keep them clean. I can't remember which. Maybe a 58....
Good point! I used a 2mm drillbit, manually rotating it , to make sure nothing was blocking the vent hole. But it did not fix the problem.
Snorkel54 is offline  
Old 03-17-2016, 06:26 AM
  #3268  
Moderator
iTrader: (20)
 
bds81175's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Litchfield, Minnesota
Posts: 2,745
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

When I do a vented bladder build, I fill the shock with oil, hold the bladder gently over the top of the shock, and push the shock shaft all the way up to the rebound that I want. If you want zero rebound you need to do this with the spring seat on otherwise the piston will drive up too far. Once you are at the rebound position you want, pull the shock shaft back down just a little bit to vacuum the bladder down onto the top of the shock and hold it there. Thread the cap on. Not sure if that is the perfect way to do it but that is what I have been doing.
bds81175 is offline  
Old 03-17-2016, 06:50 AM
  #3269  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 20
Default

Originally Posted by bds81175
When I do a vented bladder build, I fill the shock with oil, hold the bladder gently over the top of the shock, and push the shock shaft all the way up to the rebound that I want. If you want zero rebound you need to do this with the spring seat on otherwise the piston will drive up too far. Once you are at the rebound position you want, pull the shock shaft back down just a little bit to vacuum the bladder down onto the top of the shock and hold it there. Thread the cap on. Not sure if that is the perfect way to do it but that is what I have been doing.
Thank you sir! That is a very good explaination, i'm going to test this when I get back home.
Snorkel54 is offline  
Old 03-17-2016, 11:45 AM
  #3270  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 223
Default

On the shock rebound issue, I run emulsion myself so not speaking from experience but I have seen from time to time that air will enter the shock through the o-rings at the bottom of the shock body in the cartridge. Maybe just check that everything is seated properly in the ones that are giving you a problem and the o-rings are not torn. Sometimes they can get a tare from the thread on the shaft during installation. Good luck figuring it out and let us know what you find.
mikeinsocal is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.