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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Old 10-10-2017, 01:54 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 10-09-2015, 06:57 PM
  #2356  
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No, there's 3 Ackerman positions. Front, center & rear. All have different affects on turning. The 4 washers on the inside and outside of the tie rods also can be fine tuned to adjust steering.
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Old 10-09-2015, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by mxturd View Post
For playing with the ackerman, is it just using more or less washers?
No, the washers are for your bump steer adjustments.
The ackerman is adjusted by moving the entire plate forward or backward on the attached bellcranks.
Have a look at any setup sheet or page 27 in your manual to see exactly what you need to be looking at.
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Old 10-11-2015, 08:33 AM
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Anyone have a good setup for a 410.3 I'm going to build ,Running on a smaller indoor medium traction track,not clay (SMAC Track St. Louis) with a Tekin Pro 4 4600. Thanks
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Old 10-11-2015, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by X God View Post
Anyone have a good setup for a 410.3 I'm going to build ,Running on a smaller indoor medium traction track,not clay (SMAC Track St. Louis) with a Tekin Pro 4 4600. Thanks
Try box stock set up and fine tune from there. The stock set up is very easy to drive on smaller track with small/med size jumps .
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Old 10-11-2015, 05:56 PM
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Lowe's48 is right. We have small tracks in my area and almost everyone that runs tekno is running box stock and having 0 issues with it, nor are they getting the nose dive problems like many seem to have a problem with. I am starting to think a lot of that issue is more driver error than anything. Not to say it's non existent for all tracks or situations, just think it's a tab bit over hyped more than anything.
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Old 10-11-2015, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Lowe's48 is right. We have small tracks in my area and almost everyone that runs tekno is running box stock and having 0 issues with it, nor are they getting the nose dive problems like many seem to have a problem with. I am starting to think a lot of that issue is more driver error than anything. Not to say it's non existent for all tracks or situations, just think it's a tab bit over hyped more than anything.
I'm quite sure there are plenty of VERY good drivers on here who are having the same issues. In fact I would question the ability of anyone who thinks the stock setup is good and could not be improved upon with some small changes.
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Old 10-11-2015, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Kave View Post
I'm quite sure there are plenty of VERY good drivers on here who are having the same issues. In fact I would question the ability of anyone who thinks the stock setup is good and could not be improved upon with some small changes.
All I'm trying to communicate is try stock set up to begin with and go from there. Of course there are many changes that could be change but it depends on you personal preference and driving style. My set ups are very far from box stock set up but the next guy that is sharing podium with me could be running very close to stock set up .....not to say that's right or wrong.
You just can not copy someone's set ups and expect miracles.
Another thing that's more important than any set ups in the world is take your time and build it correctly. Do not over tighten make sure all moving parts are free.... binding parts are the killer!!
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Old 10-12-2015, 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Kave View Post
I'm quite sure there are plenty of VERY good drivers on here who are having the same issues. In fact I would question the ability of anyone who thinks the stock setup is good and could not be improved upon with some small changes.
I was just stating my personal opinion of how I feel in regards to small tight tracks from my personal witnessing experience. I assume by your assuming, you must feel that I or everyone I watch must not be good enough or know enough to have any validity in the statement I made?
Your certainly entitled to your opinion on that as much as I am to mine, but regardless of what you or anyone says about it I haven't seen the issue at all within a whole slu of 410.3s. Not one that I personally run with.
When I bought the SCTE 2.0, I also heard people on here make similar claims to nose dives with that chassis as well. But I found the exact opposite with parachuting effects and nose high angles to be more common occurrence for me in box stock setup.
I do a lot of tweaking on my chassis's to by the way. But I do start off with stock set initially to see what I have to work with.
When I fist started running SCT for the first time, the hardest thing for me was learning to manage my throttle differently than I had previously done with other chassis types of the past. I did nose dive a lot at first, but in short time learned it was just my management error more than anything else. I have no reason to assume a whole lot different here considering all the factors I mentioned, and or have witnessed and felt.
Maybe I will find out different on some different tracks one day. But I sort of doubt it.
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Old 10-14-2015, 11:59 AM
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Hey guys. Had a chance to run my truck for the first time last night. Runs great and is much more forgiving than my sc10 4x4.

I run on a indoor clay track, medium to semi high grip. Medium track size. The track is OCRC in Huntington Beach.

I am trying to tune this truck in to my liking. Right now I am running the stock setup. The rear end feels a bit loose coming out of corners. Too much oversteer on power. I had moved the rear shock in completely on the tower and out on the a arm. This definitely made the rear end feel a little more dead and lessened the tendency for the truck to want to come around. I tried to lower the roll center and a slightly longer rear link but I didn't help, probably was a little worse so I went back.

Where should I go from here? I was thinking heavier oil all the way around (35 front, 30 rear). Or should I look at diff fluid? I figure I should start at the rear end and make adjustments there to try and lock it down the best I can. After I get it the best I can on the rear end, I think the approach will be to take away some steering from the front. Heavier sway bar up front, different shock position, etc. to try and balance the car better. I really love the amount of steering it has right now though. I love being able to turn under those losi's at a moments notice.

Am I on the right track? Any help is much appreciated!
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Old 10-14-2015, 01:05 PM
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I added more rear toe. Dot down and out helped me a lot.
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Old 10-14-2015, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by JayCrash450 View Post
Hey guys. Had a chance to run my truck for the first time last night. Runs great and is much more forgiving than my sc10 4x4.

I run on a indoor clay track, medium to semi high grip. Medium track size. The track is OCRC in Huntington Beach.

I am trying to tune this truck in to my liking. Right now I am running the stock setup. The rear end feels a bit loose coming out of corners. Too much oversteer on power. I had moved the rear shock in completely on the tower and out on the a arm. This definitely made the rear end feel a little more dead and lessened the tendency for the truck to want to come around. I tried to lower the roll center and a slightly longer rear link but I didn't help, probably was a little worse so I went back.

Where should I go from here? I was thinking heavier oil all the way around (35 front, 30 rear). Or should I look at diff fluid? I figure I should start at the rear end and make adjustments there to try and lock it down the best I can. After I get it the best I can on the rear end, I think the approach will be to take away some steering from the front. Heavier sway bar up front, different shock position, etc. to try and balance the car better. I really love the amount of steering it has right now though. I love being able to turn under those losi's at a moments notice.

Am I on the right track? Any help is much appreciated!
http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...Lewis_SDRC.pdf
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Old 10-14-2015, 02:43 PM
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Thats the setup I am running indoors at the moment with a couple small tweaks.
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Old 10-14-2015, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by JayCrash450 View Post
...The rear end feels a bit loose coming out of corners. Too much oversteer on power.

--

... I really love the amount of steering it has right now though. I love being able to turn under those losi's at a moments notice.
I posted this in the EB thread, but it is 100% applicable to the SCT as well:

The design of the EB/NB line of vehicles has more steering throw than any other vehicle on the market. Probably by a good 5 or more degrees. At first we thought this was a huge advantage. Lately, through constant testing, we have found the cars are faster and waaaaay more consistent with less steering throw.

So if you're not using the built in steering stops, you're doing yourself a huge disservice. We are using 4 steering limiter washers on the EB/NB (SCT410 uses 4 too) and the results have been awesome. Yes, the turning radius is reduced, but lap times and consistency have proven this is a non-factor.

Here's what goes wrong with too much steering throw:
Rear end washes out when landing jumps
Rear end continues to come around exiting corners
Feels like you are struggling for traction at times
Bump handling is unpredictable
Initial steering is extremely twitchy
And other issues to be sure

Here's what's going on. The last 5+ degrees of steering throw happen very quickly and the servo has very very little leverage on the wheels at full throw. This causes the inside wheel to act erratically and get tossed left/right at the whims of the track surface. Without a positive stop there, the inside wheel is going crazy and causing inconsistencies with the handling. The CV's can accommodate this extreme working angle, but there is more chatter which creates further issues.

Even if you just limit your EPA, the inside wheel is still free to move too far when the conditions arise. So install the washers first, then reset your EPA to match.

There are literally dozens of other adjustments that will result in more steering if desired (shocks, springs, ride height, sway bars, diffs, camber links, toe, etc.). By first limiting the throw, you can focus on creating more 'setup steering'. Think of setup steering as being more consistent vs. mechanical steering (i.e. throw).

Additionally, you won't be fighting the car so you will be spending less time tuning something bad out and more time tuning good stuff in.
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Old 10-14-2015, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by teknorc View Post
So if you're not using the built in steering stops, you're doing yourself a huge disservice. We are using 4 steering limiter washers on the EB/NB (SCT410 uses 4 too) and the results have been awesome. Yes, the turning radius is reduced, but lap times and consistency have proven this is a non-factor.
4 on each side? Thats a lot. Will try tho.
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Old 10-14-2015, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
4 on each side? Thats a lot. Will try tho.
Currently building NB48.3 and I was at the perfect point to try this. It actually doesn't reduce the throw as much as I thought. Will try on SCT and NT too. Maybe that will get rid of the fishtailing I sometimes get.
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