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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Old 10-10-2017, 01:54 PM   -   Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 09-17-2015, 02:23 PM
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which clamping hexes do you guys recommend?
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Old 09-17-2015, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by one8updragracer View Post
which clamping hexes do you guys recommend?
I upgrade for this from stock.
http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/tekno-r...r5571a/p259454
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Old 09-17-2015, 05:20 PM
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Showing my rig.
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Old 09-17-2015, 10:19 PM
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That Orion motor is a 5100kv right? How do you like it?
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Old 09-18-2015, 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
You absolutely have to barely barely barely snug the grub screw in the stock hexs. It's a poor design, or poor material used I should say. I've never seen such a fragile metal in my life. It almost seems like they're ceramic they're so delicate!

Clamping hexs are mandatory.
Little bolts require little torque. Just a dot of thread lock and just snug them up. Nothing more needed. The screws are only there to keep the hex on when you remove the wheels. No need to torque them down. Been running mime since April and no issues so far.
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Old 09-18-2015, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Hoese37 View Post
Little bolts require little torque. Just a dot of thread lock and just snug them up. Nothing more needed. The screws are only there to keep the hex on when you remove the wheels. No need to torque them down. Been running mime since April and no issues so far.
+1 No problems here either.
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Old 09-18-2015, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
That Orion motor is a 5100kv right? How do you like it?
I'm running Orion 4.5T 2pole 550 it's a beast with Orion esc r10.1
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Old 09-18-2015, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
Showing my rig.
Man that is a beefy set up ,,i like it
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Old 09-19-2015, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
You absolutely have to barely barely barely snug the grub screw in the stock hexs. It's a poor design, or poor material used I should say. I've never seen such a fragile metal in my life. It almost seems like they're ceramic they're so delicate!

Clamping hexs are mandatory.
broke one last weekend, agreed!
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Old 09-19-2015, 01:24 PM
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I'm new to everything sct. Got a proline Evo body. Anybody run it? How many ventilation holes doyou cut out of the rear?
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Old 09-19-2015, 02:52 PM
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I just got all my electronics installed and when I went to set my ride height I noticed it was way too high. I did some researching and tightened the ball end all the way down on the shock shaft. Although im still like 3mm too high (going by box setup). Any thoughts, is it true the springs will wear in a bit after some use. I'm using the 110% racing ride height tool.
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Old 09-19-2015, 09:06 PM
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The springs will settle a bit but probably not enough. Most people are switching to different springs. That's what I did
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Old 09-19-2015, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by TRoy9696 View Post
I just got all my electronics installed and when I went to set my ride height I noticed it was way too high. I did some researching and tightened the ball end all the way down on the shock shaft. Although im still like 3mm too high (going by box setup). Any thoughts, is it true the springs will wear in a bit after some use. I'm using the 110% racing ride height tool.
They did settle for me. I would run them a couple/few times and then measure again.
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Old 09-19-2015, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by one8updragracer View Post
I'm new to everything sct. Got a proline Evo body. Anybody run it? How many ventilation holes doyou cut out of the rear?
I'm actually running it right now. I know i cut out the two rearmost holes (not fully) and the one between those. I'll have to check and see what else I cut.
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Old 09-20-2015, 09:30 AM
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What springs would you guys recommend, I'll be running a tight carpet track this winter. I read pink front and back was a petty versatile setup.
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