Your getting 45 on 2s? What motor and gearing? I must be doing something wrong lol I'm running 45 on 4s and still getting hot. Just plying on the street with lots of starts and stops and full throttle. But still my truck would melt on 2s geared for 45

17mm hex on sct410.3
 

Can I put 17mm hexes and axles from eb48 on my sct410.3 and use de racing 17mm short course wheels and still be standard width. Want to be able to run 1/8 buggy wheel and de trinidad 17 mm short wheels thanks Ron My time is off posted this at 1:30 not 10:30 how can I change it

Lol...that's calculated based on gearing. Tekin pro4hd 4300kv with 17/18 tooth pinion. About to try lrp dynamic 10l 4700kv with 15/16 tooth.

Not saying my calcs are right, but I believe they are.

How does that hd run temp wise. I'm thinking of getting the 3000kv for 3s. I absolutely my castle 2400 but in this truck it needs 4s to wake it up with the low kv. I'm my slash 4x4's it's perfect on 3s. I think the diffs are geared allot lower in the teknos

For a 5 min race, 85-90 degf outside, my motor finishes at around 160. My esc finishes around 150 according to the tekin data log.

The hd 3000kv on 3S would be a beast speed wise...lol.

contact M2C and confirm there 17mm hexes work on the new vehicle. If they do, use those and you should be legal.

Can one of you Tekno guys upload more ".3" set up sheets to the website please? There's gotta be more than 3 set up sheets available....

Why not just grab one of the setups and start tuning? I rarely look at setup sheets for any of my rides anymore. There are a bunch of us on here that would be more than happy to trade tuning knowledge/ideas on here.

I've just taken my new SCT410.3 to the track and it's very good, but I have one minor issue, when it jumps, a lot of times it seems to throw the ass end up so hard that sometimes I can't even compensate with throttle. Anyone else have this same experience? Any tips on how to adjust my setup to help give it a more neutral launch? My truck setup is very close to stock with 35wt front, 30wt rear, 5/5/3 diff oil and stock camber/toe/anti-squat/etc. The track I run on is extremely loose, so hopefully none of the changes I need to make will affect handling as the truck is running like it's on rails right now, really nice.

Thanks!

Its just nice to know what set ups the pros are running, and have a reference. I've been experimenting nonstop since day 1.

Yes, I have this problem too. With how soft the rear end is box stock... You wouldn't think that would be a problem. On short & steep faced jumps, I have BAD nose dive issues. The higher it throws my truck, the worse it nosedives.

It happens so fast, I don't even have time to react with throttle..
And when I do save it, I have to hold it completely pinned mid air and it STILL barely lands. Normal, & small jumps its fine. Just high peaky ones I hate.

I changed out all 4 pistons, and also went up to 30wt oil in the rear from 25. Hoping this slows down the rebound and will stop the nosediving.

Make sure your wheels aren't rubbing inside. Or if you have on mud guards on the rear A Arms, make sure they aren't hitting your wheels. This will cause your drivetrain to stop rotating & cause nosediving. Also, make sure your drag brake is OFF and your ABS is off too. And try adjusting your throttle trim forward some to keep the tires rolling mid-air. One more thing, if your pinion is meshed too tight to your spur, it'll put unnecessary drag onto the drivetrain which can also cause unwanted nosediving.

Have you played around with your approach to the jump? I had to change the way I hit certain jumps with the Tekno but only usually takes me a couple laps to figure out the best way to get it smooth, with that said though some of you guys may have more going on than a simple approach change as you guys are talking some violent kick up issues it seem's.

Since were talking setups, I raced today and did the best ever and the truck felt great. Even let a Losi guy drive it and he liked it alot and was really fast on it. I'm still searching for a little more rear traction. I'm wondering if a 3000 rear weight may help over the 5000 I'm currently running. Here is mg set up.


Medina RC Raceway, hard packed and dusty. More technical with jumps and turns.
Proline Blockades work the best for me.
775 front to rear.
Black springs.
35 weight losi in front, 32.5 in rear.
Standard droop.
25mm front and rear ride.
-3° camber in front and rear.

Want a little more rear traction, i have more steering than I need.

Mark

Yes put the 3000 in it will slow down the diff to make better traction

I usually remove or go lighter on the rear sway bar when I need more rear traction. Or go stiffer on the front sway bar to take away some steering bite