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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: New Schumacher KF2
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Welcome to the KF2 Wiki!

Please feel free to add any Tips, Tricks, or anything that would be beneficial to the KF2 Family

Introduction and Pictures Introduction and Pictures

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Tony Newland Gear Diff BuildTony Newland Gear Diff Build

Suggested Gearing

6.5
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17.5 I ran 69/31 at SRS Scottsdale Arizona and 72/30 at MHOR Aurora Co and Full Throttle ALB, NM RCM lockout worked excellent!


MIP pucks excellent upgrade! The new RCM lockout is an excellent piece as well! These options will greatly reduce weight throughout the drive line!

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Old 04-11-2015, 11:35 PM   #196
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They run both chassis'

The carbon is about a 60g weight savings... but either way theyre not running the front stiffeners, side dams of battery holdowns... servo tape the battery in and I think theyre weighing in around 1510-1550g
Just did all the above and also eliminated 2 pads and 2 discs in the slipper clutch (I used a longer slipper spring from a B44.2) and saved 13.4 grams of rotating mass. Race ready my car weights in at 1515.1
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Old 04-11-2015, 11:45 PM   #197
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Ya forgot to mention that about the slipper... some of the guys have made slipper eliminators for stock
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Old 04-11-2015, 11:56 PM   #198
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Ya forgot to mention that about the slipper... some of the guys have made slipper eliminators for stock
Have a friend working on a short Ti layshaft for me...also gonna mill down the basket that holds the slipper assembly to fit the reduced number of pads/discs
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Old 04-11-2015, 11:58 PM   #199
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I run a chunky 210g shorty as well...I can def get her under the 1500 without too much issue.
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Old 04-12-2015, 12:13 AM   #200
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Have a friend working on a short Ti layshaft for me...also gonna mill down the basket that holds the slipper assembly to fit the reduced number of pads/discs
By the time that's all said and done it should be damn near 21+ grams of weight out of the drivetrain...pretty significant savings
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Old 04-12-2015, 07:42 AM   #201
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Any part numbers on what I need to flip my rear shocks to the rearward mounting position? Can't seem to find anything and the stock shock mounting posts are too short
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Old 04-12-2015, 08:06 AM   #202
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Any part numbers on what I need to flip my rear shocks to the rearward mounting position? Can't seem to find anything and the stock shock mounting posts are too short
All you need is U4616. DiscountRCstore.com usually has them but I think they are backordered.

And keep us posted on those Ti layshafts. I would be interested.
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Old 04-12-2015, 08:32 AM   #203
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Any part numbers on what I need to flip my rear shocks to the rearward mounting position? Can't seem to find anything and the stock shock mounting posts are too short
I grew impatient waiting for u4616 to be restocked, so I made my own. I purchased u4615 from amain and carefully cut the top off rear upper tranny half u4189.
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Old 04-12-2015, 08:34 AM   #204
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Ya forgot to mention that about the slipper... some of the guys have made slipper eliminators for stock
Do you have any info on making a slipper eliminator?
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Old 04-12-2015, 08:58 AM   #205
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I think theyre using a piece of aluminum tubing and locking the nut down
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Old 04-12-2015, 09:00 AM   #206
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Do you have any info on making a slipper eliminator?
Here's my setup with the B44.2 slipper spring....almost a half ounce savings in weight. 13.4 grams on the scale
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Old 04-12-2015, 09:33 AM   #207
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May also see if my friend will help me make a direct drive for it...I'm thinking a short shaft, drill a couple holes in the back plate, screw the spur directly to it...you would also be able to use lighter weight spurs...don't know how it would affect overall drivetrain durability but in stock class it should hold up
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Old 04-12-2015, 03:16 PM   #208
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I put together my KF2 kit last night and was just wondering if anyone else had a hard time getting the rear pins that hold the arms on with those little ball ends that slip into the suspension mounts and the rear suspension strap?

I had to really press it together with some force... I would hate to have to change a rear arm out :/

I hope I didn't bend any of the mounts/pins... I could feel the chassis (CF) flex a bit while trying to press the whole assembly together.

Sam
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Old 04-12-2015, 03:26 PM   #209
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A couple other questions for you guys:

1) Those 1MM Quick-Clips are junk, they fall right off, should I just put a 1MM shim in place of them?

2) I am running the alum. rear link mount, and I was told to run 3MM spacers under it between where it mounts. The ball studs are now higher than the stock CF piece running 3MM spacers under the studs. Is this right?

3) I am using the Core-RC servo arm, and it is like a hair from or maybe even rubbing a tad on the top of the bulk head? I have dropped the servo all the way down towards the chassis. Savox 1258T. Has anyone else seen this?

4) How much black grease should I put on the transmission gears? I put a little blob on and then ran it through the gears, seems like enough?

5) How tight do you run the belt? I have heard and seen a whole different slew of thoughts on this.

Thanks!
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Old 04-12-2015, 09:16 PM   #210
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Originally Posted by sstriano View Post
I put together my KF2 kit last night and was just wondering if anyone else had a hard time getting the rear pins that hold the arms on with those little ball ends that slip into the suspension mounts and the rear suspension strap?

I had to really press it together with some force... I would hate to have to change a rear arm out :/

I hope I didn't bend any of the mounts/pins... I could feel the chassis (CF) flex a bit while trying to press the whole assembly together.

Sam
I basically had the same experience when I did the assembly. It was definitely a tight fit. I think I had to gently tap the back aluminum hinge pin block with a plastic mallet to get everything to seat right. After about 8-10 packs I pulled the whole rear end apart and those parts had freed up to the point where it was much easier to reassemble. But not to the point of slop or play.

Just make sure the suspension moves freely without binding before you put the shocks on. I am betting you didn't hurt anything.
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