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Old 10-02-2005, 02:57 PM   #1
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Default Getting an AD2; Compiling a shopping list

Spares, essentials, etc.
I'm new to Losi trucks (running AE for a couple years now) so I'm quite lost as on what spares do I need to most, rebuild kits etc.

I'm not buying it from the LHS (none carry Losi around, in fact I've been doing ALL of my R/C shopping through Tower, which was the main reason I never had a Losi before).

So, I won't be having a regular supply of parts. I managed to stock up pretty well with the GT I've been running lately, and I want to get to the same point with the AD2.

Which means consumables, weak parts, diff rebuild kits etc. I need to locate the parts, if possible.

Other than that, my setup is going to be:
OS .12TZ 3 port
2x Futaba S9451 servos
Novak XXTra receiver
SMC 6.0v hump pack

Any comments on that either?

I know I ask for alot, but you seem to be nice people and quite knowledgable in everything Losi...

Thanks!
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Old 10-02-2005, 03:06 PM   #2
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You need to buy everything that is plastic or carbon fiber. This thing is like dropping a wine glass into the sink... it may not break the first time, but you can bet you bottom dollar it will break the next.
The rear arms and rear pivots break constantly. Just buy the aluminum front and rear pivots or you will hate the truck. We had ten in our thirty minute Expert A main last night (all AD1 or AD2) and three finished. These guys are good drivers. One was sponsored buy Losi.
Sorry just needed to vent.
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Old 10-02-2005, 03:12 PM   #3
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lol.... wow, i have never had a problem
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Old 10-02-2005, 03:18 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smoothone
You need to buy everything that is plastic or carbon fiber. This thing is like dropping a wine glass into the sink... it may not break the first time, but you can bet you bottom dollar it will break the next.
The rear arms and rear pivots break constantly. Just buy the aluminum front and rear pivots or you will hate the truck. We had ten in our thirty minute Expert A main last night (all AD1 or AD2) and three finished. These guys are good drivers. One was sponsored buy Losi.
Sorry just needed to vent.
WOW. Is it this bad?
Anyway, that's exactly the response I was hoping to get.

I'll look into the pivots, thanks!
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Old 10-02-2005, 03:55 PM   #5
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It's not that bad at all..every truck breaks. I'd put the durability of the AD2 up against anything in the gas truck class. That's why nearly every sportsman-level driver in Southern California who doesn't get help from an AE-related source drives an AD2. It's competitive and tough straight out of the box.

I hit a stopped 1/8th scale buggy 2/3 of the way down the straightaway at Hemet on Friday..and didn't break, bend, dislodge, mislocate, tweak, ruffle, or otherwise damage one thing. Factory driver or not, I hit that buggy hard. My truck has a lot of power, and I was full punched when the buggy jumped out of pit lane.

The only aftermarket part on my truck is the Trinity front pivot block...for weight. I've never seen a plastic one break, not even in the hands of backyard bashers who jump their cars off of houses. An aluminum rear pivot block will not make the rear end of your truck any stronger..you'll just break arms. TRUST ME, that was tested a LOT. Make sure your hub screws are tight, flat-spot the inner rear hinge pins so the set screws have something to grab onto, and have fun. I've broken two rear arms in 2005, and both were from hitting a wall wide-open.

In any case..here are a few things to look into.

- Losi's new gray ballcups. Everyone goes through ballcups sooner or later. These are the new latest and greatest. I've run a Mugen captured end (C6010A) on the rear shock tower camber link position because it's a pain to pop back on if you ever need to pop it off for any reason, but I still run a ballcup on the rear hub.

- Lunsford's new Heavy Duty turnbuckles are fine for the front and rear camber links if you ever break or bend the stock units. I've never had a problem with the steering links bending or breaking so the stock ones are still on my truck.

- Spare parts aren't a bad idea. Get a pair or three of rear arms just in case...even if you don't break them, hinge pin holes get wallowed out no matter what car you run, and it's nice to replace them and get rid of slop. If you're worried about pivot blocks, order one or two. The front end is VERY solid (I've never broken a VLA front arm) but again..sometimes it's nice to refresh your truck. Front bumpers and battery boxes can get scuffed up if you run on a hard packed and rough track..again, that's all looks though.

- Dirt getting in your ballcups will not only make the ballcups sloppy, it'll wear out the ballstuds. This happens on any car..duh! Dirt happens. the stock steel ones are fine..Losi sells titanium ones that use an allen wrench (pretty handy) and Lunsford makes new ballstuds that are very beefy.

- Take your time to get the diff and slipper right. If you throw it together and run it, you'll burn it up and probably need to vent on RCTech. My post on setting a Losi diff and slipper has been copy/pasted a bunch of times here, and it works.

- If you can, track down a XX-4 access plug set. You can cut a small hole in the receiver box and use the access plug to plug it; this will allow you to change frequencies without taking your receiver box off.

I think that when it comes to the best bang for your buck, competitive out of the box, with the least amount of aftermarket stuff and requiring less hand-modifications to make the truck fast and durable, the AD2 is the way to go. If you have any other questions..let me know!
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Old 10-02-2005, 04:10 PM   #6
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I also forgot to mention that we race on a beat up 1/8 scale track that really isn't very suited for 1/10. I was just venting a little because I am tired of the bad breaks over the past couple of weeks. They seem to come and go.
Please also understand that the guys in our expert class are pretty fast but someone like Aaron is wayyyyyy fast and has superb throttle control. I TQ quite a bit and there are usually a couple of us that are usually a second or two a lap faster than the rest. When guys like Aaron show up, they put another second or two on the fast guys!!!
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Old 10-02-2005, 04:55 PM   #7
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On the rear metal pivot block, I would strongly suggest you get it. If you stick with the stock it will brake. I would rather brake a rear arm then a pivot block, it is much easier to replace. (cost more)

This truck is strong,
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Old 10-02-2005, 06:48 PM   #8
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yeah, the only thing's I would upgrade would be the front bulkhead tand the rear arm mounts, other than that, the AD2 i pretty sick out of the box...
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Old 10-02-2005, 07:16 PM   #9
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Does anyone have the part # for the front & rear alloy blocks?
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Old 10-02-2005, 11:10 PM   #10
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Thanks again!

Aaron, you didn't mention anything about a differential rebuild kit; Is one of these available at all? What about a shock rebuild kit?
Coming from the AE world, rebuilds are pretty straightforward.

I'll get the arms, pivot blocks, and ballcups just like you mentioned.

Another question: I've read in the AD2 thread that there's some kind of black plastic part which should attach to the rims but doesn't come with them (a spacer of some sort). Do I need to buy it with any rim I get, or is it interchangable between different rims?
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Old 10-03-2005, 02:28 AM   #11
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Losi sells all that stuff too...a whole shock cartridge assembly is $2.00.

http://www.teamlosi.com/partlist/parts/diff.htm there's the parts list for the differential parts for all of the Losi cars. The NT has the "Monster diff".

The black insert for the rear rims comes in the same package as the axle hexes. They're held onto the wheels with two screws (or glue) and can be used on every set of wheels you ever buy. Obviously..if you're going to do a tire swap during a race, you'll need two sets of them. Losi sells hard anodized aluminum rim inserts now also, check the "New Products" tab on the Team Losi website.

My home track is The Dirt in Hemet, CA...known for the biggest jumps, wildest ruts, and craziest tracks anywhere. A couple hours up the freeway though, is Hot Rod Hobbies, a smooth blue groove track with high speeds and unforgiving walls. Trust me...when I crash into stuff, I'm going faster than most people...haha! My trucks are always borderline "too much power", and I'm never really one for letting off or using the brakes.

Losi looked into including an aluminum rear pivot block with the kit, but couldn't get one to work that didn't put the arm (and the performance of the truck) at a disadvantage. The plastic pivot block will have more traction than the aluminum one will, and you'll survive more crashes. That was something that was tested over and over and over...

...and over, and over, and over...it's unfair to say that it's an absolute necessity to make the truck durable and competitive. If that was the case, it would come in the box.

Besides, I'd rather break a cheap plastic pivot block, than bend a $40.00 aluminum one. Trust me...it WILL bend, and you'll probably never know it...say goodbye to anti-squat and toe settings. (And on the same note...check your front pivot block against a pane of glass every time you have the front end of your truck apart. These will bend without even breaking an arm.)
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Old 10-03-2005, 05:11 PM   #12
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AW

That is very interesting stuff. Thanks for sharing, More traction, Ill have to keep that in mind.
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Old 10-03-2005, 06:11 PM   #13
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Can't wait to hear how people try to explain it
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Old 10-03-2005, 07:06 PM   #14
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Go ahead and explain it Aaron... We all want to know. I know that in electric having too much weight in the rear can make it loose and side bite will go down. I am not sure how this works though.
Unless the toe in is different from the plastic to the aluminum. Then that would make a difference.
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Old 10-04-2005, 01:32 AM   #15
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The little bit of flex in the plastic part (the pivot block isn't graphite) will actually give the truck more traction. This is the same reason why you don't see many AE drivers running aluminum pivot blocks and hubs.
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