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TLR 22T 2.0 Stadium Truck

TLR 22T 2.0 Stadium Truck

Old 03-11-2016, 04:01 AM
  #1216  
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Originally Posted by MNiceGuy
Thanks for the info guys. I'll admit I'm still having a little bit of a hard time wrapping my head around the concept and not for lack of information.

When I had the TLR chassis I ran the shorty as most do: up against the waterfall. From the get-go the truck would have a tendency to bring the back end around off power or on braking. The brass hinge pin mount seemed to alleviate this except for hard snaps from throttle to heavy braking.

With the Exotek it seems the unstable rear is back which at my level of understanding is baffling. The heft of the battery is now much more rearword so I would expect rear traction to increase and make the front more likely to push. The opposite is true. The front digs in like nobody's business and if left unchecked, the rear will rotate around very quickly.

Is this due to all that rearward weight transferring to the front when off power or under braking? That would make sense I guess. If the weight is further from the axis of rotation the weight transfer is going to be more severe/apparent. With the front/back shorty setup there was less weight in the rear and more toward the middle; making weight transfer less. Am I understanding this logic correctly?

Increased steering/side bite on the front will cause the rear to break loose quicker. If you're driving along, and want to kick the rear around, you turn quickly, right? If you gradually turn, the car will lean, begin to dig in, and not as likely to slide the rear out.

This is what happens when you increase front end grip. The front of the car is reacting quicker, and is more apt to break the rear loose. Try moving upper rear shock locations inward some. And set up for the corners sooner, using finer amounts of initial steering input.
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Old 03-11-2016, 04:31 AM
  #1217  
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Originally Posted by jjdoyle
......But If he did he would dominate. He still knows what you need to run. Just go talk to him. He just raced it at jconcepts race in st.louis.
Not necessarily. He finished 4th last Sunday, and Mueller 5th. Mueller picked up 3rd in 2wd ST. Wed night Mueller finished like 5th in the B main, but won 4wd buggy.

I guest my point is how intense the competition is there.

But all in all, my lap times are not far off anymore. I have since went to a gear diff, got rid of all my added chassis weights, but still am lacking that edge with it.

The gear diff, believe it or not, has had the single biggest positive impact. The front end has always been good, but the rear not so. I was advised to this by one of the Losi drivers, and a few others that have switched.
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Old 03-20-2016, 06:07 PM
  #1218  
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hello im curious if anyone has used the 4 degree low roll center rear toe block? wondering the advantages and disadvantanges of it? thanks for any info.
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Old 03-20-2016, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by DIRT DIGGER
hello im curious if anyone has used the 4 degree low roll center rear toe block? wondering the advantages and disadvantanges of it? thanks for any info.
It helps with rear traction and forward bite in low traction surfaces. I have only used it in rear motor and on medium to small tracks. The stock 3.0 is a good balance of traction and top speed. More toe can hurt top speed. I wouldn't go from 3.0 to 4.0 without trying 3.5 first. Kind of sucks you have to buy the alum parts to try it out.
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Old 03-23-2016, 09:39 AM
  #1220  
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Hey guys, dirt season is just around the corner here and I have been out of touch on this thread. Been trying to do some research on what the transverse battery will gain or lose for me. I am fluent in pan cars so I think I know but just want to get your input.

That being said I have a 2.0 truck that I run in rear motor on a looser outdoor clay track. Thanks in advance for the help.
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Old 03-23-2016, 12:38 PM
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Anyone know what diff fluid I would use for a small indoor med bite track for my gear diff I want to try out? Thanks
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Old 03-23-2016, 05:34 PM
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I run wheel bearing grease in the one in my truck.
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Old 03-26-2016, 04:39 AM
  #1223  
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Originally Posted by big_ads
Hey guys, dirt season is just around the corner here and I have been out of touch on this thread. Been trying to do some research on what the transverse battery will gain or lose for me. I am fluent in pan cars so I think I know but just want to get your input.

That being said I have a 2.0 truck that I run in rear motor on a looser outdoor clay track. Thanks in advance for the help.
I haven't tried the transverse, yet. I simply push a shorty pack all the way to the front.

Let me know what you think you if you try soon..... Thanks!
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Old 03-26-2016, 11:08 AM
  #1224  
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Default 22T 1.0 to 2.0 Rear Shocks

I just picked up a 22T 1.5. I call it a 1.5 because the chassis, steering and mid motor configuration have been updated. I am curious about converting the rear end. Can I just convert the rear axles, arms, hinge pins, and hubs (to 2.0 parts) without having to convert to the 2.0 longer shock shaft and new 2.0 shock body? Physically will the setup work? I understand that there are benefits to running the longer shock shafts and improved shocks. Thanks.
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Old 03-26-2016, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by larsif
I just picked up a 22T 1.5. I call it a 1.5 because the chassis, steering and mid motor configuration have been updated. I am curious about converting the rear end. Can I just convert the rear axles, arms, hinge pins, and hubs (to 2.0 parts) without having to convert to the 2.0 longer shock shaft and new 2.0 shock body? Physically will the setup work? I understand that there are benefits to running the longer shock shafts and improved shocks. Thanks.
Yes it will work. Assuming you have bleeder shock caps. I ran one like this for a while. Unscrew the bottom about 2mm and run a 1mm spacer on the outside of the shock body. Basically you want as much stoke as you can get without the piston going past the top of the shock body. The longer shocks do make an improvement but mainly on bumpy surfaces. If you are running mid motor and on a high bite surface you may not notice much as some 2.0 setups reduce droop / stroke.

You will also need longer turnbuckles and use the HD ball cups. When you say rear axels you actually need the longer drive shafts and axel. You don't need the hinge pins but the threaded versions on the hubs are much better for servicing than the 1.0 with the clips. Don't forget the 22 SCT hexes.

Really if you can get $100 for your 1.5 roller you will be money ahead selling it and buying a new kit.
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Old 03-27-2016, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by DIRT DIGGER
Anyone know what diff fluid I would use for a small indoor med bite track for my gear diff I want to try out? Thanks
3-5k
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Old 03-27-2016, 06:01 PM
  #1227  
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Originally Posted by E-Mann
It helps with rear traction and forward bite in low traction surfaces. I have only used it in rear motor and on medium to small tracks. The stock 3.0 is a good balance of traction and top speed. More toe can hurt top speed. I wouldn't go from 3.0 to 4.0 without trying 3.5 first. Kind of sucks you have to buy the alum parts to try it out.
do you have a part number for the 3.5 and 4.0?
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Old 03-27-2016, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Kings Kid
do you have a part number for the 3.5 and 4.0?
3.5 is TLR2985 and 4.0 is TLR2986. These are the LRC - low roll center parts like the 3.0 that comes in the kit.
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Old 03-28-2016, 06:04 AM
  #1229  
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Default 22t Side Pods

Hi there I have just purchased a TLR 22t second hand and noticed it came with some side pods however I have noticed they do not come from a company and that people have been custom making them.

Any guidance on where to purchase them and whatnot is appreciated.

Yours Sincerely,
Jack
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Old 03-29-2016, 05:00 AM
  #1230  
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Originally Posted by JackG
Hi there I have just purchased a TLR 22t second hand and noticed it came with some side pods however I have noticed they do not come from a company and that people have been custom making them.

Any guidance on where to purchase them and whatnot is appreciated.

Yours Sincerely,
Jack
If the side pods are made from lexan, then they are made by a member on RC tech. His name currently eludes me. Search this thread and you will find his name. When the 2.0 st came out I contacted him about making some and he said if a large enough order came in he would consider making some. The side pods were never profitable so he had discontinued making them.

Oh yeah- Mitten was his name.
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