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TLR 22T 2.0 Stadium Truck

TLR 22T 2.0 Stadium Truck

Old 03-05-2016, 12:02 PM
  #1201  
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Originally Posted by DIRT DIGGER
can anyone using the exotek chassis please post a setup there useing? thanks alot

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Old 03-05-2016, 01:23 PM
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Happy, Happy!! finally finished building my truck!!! got it all going and my maiden drive down my driveway and the tranni (clutch) was slipping. I tightened it in increments and kept testing it and now it is tight all the way in and still slipping.

Have I missed something in the install or did not tighten something in the tranni enough?

suggestions?
D
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Old 03-05-2016, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by osteo
Happy, Happy!! finally finished building my truck!!! got it all going and my maiden drive down my driveway and the tranni (clutch) was slipping. I tightened it in increments and kept testing it and now it is tight all the way in and still slipping.

Have I missed something in the install or did not tighten something in the tranni enough?

suggestions?
D
You could have "Glazed" your slipper pads. take and use some sand paper and rough them up and try again. or are you hearing your Diff slopping ??
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Old 03-05-2016, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Dirtraycer
You could have "Glazed" your slipper pads. take and use some sand paper and rough them up and try again. or are you hearing your Diff slopping ??
Not the diff, you can hear it whine a bit and then it will grab but not with any conviction. Any resistance for example me holding it onto the floor it whines more and doesn't really try to pull away. Now that I have the cover off, there is a bit of play (side to side or up and down) of the shaft that the slipper assembly is on... (tightened up the motor to the spur gear and it is better - the side to side play that is).



I can rough up the pads a bit for sure, but before I have another question as I was thinking about this when I assembled the Slipper to begin with.

The pads (32007) do they just sit in their recess in the gear and are sandwiched in place by the plates (32027)?

D

Last edited by osteo; 03-05-2016 at 04:09 PM. Reason: More info
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Old 03-06-2016, 08:18 PM
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I'm currently running the Exotek chassis and steering system on my 22T.

Suspension/Alignment: Kit/Stock
Surface: High traction carpet
Battery Position: Against waterfall
Brass: None

The truck now turns on a dime but since moving to the Exotek setup I'm noticing the back end wants to come around sometimes rather unpredictably. I was running the 35g brass rear pivot with the original chassis to calm this down but someone at my track (whom I have faith knows what they're talking about) said to lose the brass and move the battery all the way forward.

I took the brass off but couldn't move the battery all the way forward due to how my speedo is soldered in but it seemed to make the back end phenomenon worse.

Is the suggestion I was given sound logic? In my mind, if the rear is losing traction off power than wouldn't moving the battery forward and lightening the rear make this worse? Someone attempted to enlighten me on what they called the "pendulum effect" where the weight further away from the point of rotation is going to want to come around more violently. Since the problem is in the rear then removing weight from the rear extremities is the ticket. Does that logic stand up?
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Old 03-07-2016, 04:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
The best tires for Speed R/C are JC Green Smoothies. See Max Flurer who kills it at Speed with his 22T 2.0 and he'll get you dialed in.
I don't think Max has raced his 22t at Speed since the last two layouts.
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Old 03-07-2016, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by hyper7driver
I don't think Max has raced his 22t at Speed since the last two layouts.
......But If he did he would dominate. He still knows what you need to run. Just go talk to him. He just raced it at jconcepts race in st.louis.
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Old 03-09-2016, 04:08 AM
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Originally Posted by MNiceGuy
I'm currently running the Exotek chassis and steering system on my 22T.

Suspension/Alignment: Kit/Stock
Surface: High traction carpet
Battery Position: Against waterfall
Brass: None

The truck now turns on a dime but since moving to the Exotek setup I'm noticing the back end wants to come around sometimes rather unpredictably. I was running the 35g brass rear pivot with the original chassis to calm this down but someone at my track (whom I have faith knows what they're talking about) said to lose the brass and move the battery all the way forward.

I took the brass off but couldn't move the battery all the way forward due to how my speedo is soldered in but it seemed to make the back end phenomenon worse.

Is the suggestion I was given sound logic? In my mind, if the rear is losing traction off power than wouldn't moving the battery forward and lightening the rear make this worse? Someone attempted to enlighten me on what they called the "pendulum effect" where the weight further away from the point of rotation is going to want to come around more violently. Since the problem is in the rear then removing weight from the rear extremities is the ticket. Does that logic stand up?
The pendulum effect is a good theory so long as you can retain traction on the particular end of the car you are moving weight away from.....
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by MNiceGuy
I'm currently running the Exotek chassis and steering system on my 22T.

Suspension/Alignment: Kit/Stock
Surface: High traction carpet
Battery Position: Against waterfall
Brass: None

The truck now turns on a dime but since moving to the Exotek setup I'm noticing the back end wants to come around sometimes rather unpredictably. I was running the 35g brass rear pivot with the original chassis to calm this down but someone at my track (whom I have faith knows what they're talking about) said to lose the brass and move the battery all the way forward.

I took the brass off but couldn't move the battery all the way forward due to how my speedo is soldered in but it seemed to make the back end phenomenon worse.

Is the suggestion I was given sound logic? In my mind, if the rear is losing traction off power than wouldn't moving the battery forward and lightening the rear make this worse? Someone attempted to enlighten me on what they called the "pendulum effect" where the weight further away from the point of rotation is going to want to come around more violently. Since the problem is in the rear then removing weight from the rear extremities is the ticket. Does that logic stand up?
The "pendulum effect" is something that many people reference, but very few actually understand. Generally speaking, what I believe people mean is that...if you have the same mass 5cm from the rotation point and 10 cm from the rotation point when the rear does break loose and come around the setup with the mass further from the point of rotation will come around with a greater force. The counter to this, from my point of view, is mass further from the point of rotation will make the overall rate of rotation slower...think of a spinning ice skater...tucked arms spin fast, arms out spin slow. The difference in the two is are you looking at the initial break away or after the rotation begins.

All of that being said, I think, if the rear is snapping around on you initially after getting off the throttle, then you have too much weight going to the front during breaking/off-throttle conditions. Maybe try increasing front spring preload, or removing weight from the front, or smaller anti-squat block. Could also try moving rear hubs back 1mm, as that will lengthen the wheel base and slow your rotation.

-W
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Old 03-09-2016, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by osteo
Happy, Happy!! finally finished building my truck!!! got it all going and my maiden drive down my driveway and the tranni (clutch) was slipping. I tightened it in increments and kept testing it and now it is tight all the way in and still slipping.

Have I missed something in the install or did not tighten something in the tranni enough?

suggestions?
D
Are you running mod? The stock slipper is pretty weak IMO, and I found it to be hard to use anything bigger than a 13.5.
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Old 03-09-2016, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by tsair
Are you running mod? The stock slipper is pretty weak IMO, and I found it to be hard to use anything bigger than a 13.5.
10.5 with an 18t pinion. I have the Xerun ESC and the stock settings are 70% full throttle on initial full acceleration, wondering if that is part of the slower acceleration from a start as well. I'm used to by Axial Wraith crawler and the ton of torque particularly with the motor I have in it. Haven't had a chance to re-program the ESC to see if that changes it as yet.

D
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Old 03-09-2016, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by hyper7driver
The pendulum effect is a good theory so long as you can retain traction on the particular end of the car you are moving weight away from.....
Originally Posted by Wanderer77
The "pendulum effect" is something that many people reference, but very few actually understand. Generally speaking, what I believe people mean is that...if you have the same mass 5cm from the rotation point and 10 cm from the rotation point when the rear does break loose and come around the setup with the mass further from the point of rotation will come around with a greater force. The counter to this, from my point of view, is mass further from the point of rotation will make the overall rate of rotation slower...think of a spinning ice skater...tucked arms spin fast, arms out spin slow. The difference in the two is are you looking at the initial break away or after the rotation begins.

All of that being said, I think, if the rear is snapping around on you initially after getting off the throttle, then you have too much weight going to the front during breaking/off-throttle conditions. Maybe try increasing front spring preload, or removing weight from the front, or smaller anti-squat block. Could also try moving rear hubs back 1mm, as that will lengthen the wheel base and slow your rotation.

-W
Thanks for the info guys. I'll admit I'm still having a little bit of a hard time wrapping my head around the concept and not for lack of information.

When I had the TLR chassis I ran the shorty as most do: up against the waterfall. From the get-go the truck would have a tendency to bring the back end around off power or on braking. The brass hinge pin mount seemed to alleviate this except for hard snaps from throttle to heavy braking.

With the Exotek it seems the unstable rear is back which at my level of understanding is baffling. The heft of the battery is now much more rearword so I would expect rear traction to increase and make the front more likely to push. The opposite is true. The front digs in like nobody's business and if left unchecked, the rear will rotate around very quickly.

Is this due to all that rearward weight transferring to the front when off power or under braking? That would make sense I guess. If the weight is further from the axis of rotation the weight transfer is going to be more severe/apparent. With the front/back shorty setup there was less weight in the rear and more toward the middle; making weight transfer less. Am I understanding this logic correctly?

When you say increase front pre-load do you mean going up one full spring or just dialing in a little more with the shock collar?

Also, would shifting the battery forward help with my particular problem?

Thanks for the wisdom so far. I love this hobby as much as the next guy but sometimes I struggle with the physics and therefore setup.
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Old 03-09-2016, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by osteo
Happy, Happy!! finally finished building my truck!!! got it all going and my maiden drive down my driveway and the tranni (clutch) was slipping. I tightened it in increments and kept testing it and now it is tight all the way in and still slipping.

Have I missed something in the install or did not tighten something in the tranni enough?

suggestions?
D
How much is it slipping? You'll want it to slip a little but if it's more than a couple feet when accelerating from a dead stop then I would agree something is amiss.

As someone else suggested, rough up the pads with some sand paper or from dragging a sharp blade across the surface (i.e. not cutting into the pad). I run aftermarket slippers on my stuff but I do recall having a time when tuning my SCT with the TLR HDS slipper.

Some folks prefer to run the Associated slipper spring to get a little more clamping force. Haven't done that one myself so I can't comment on its effectiveness.
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Old 03-09-2016, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by MNiceGuy
How much is it slipping? You'll want it to slip a little but if it's more than a couple feet when accelerating from a dead stop then I would agree something is amiss.

As someone else suggested, rough up the pads with some sand paper or from dragging a sharp blade across the surface (i.e. not cutting into the pad). I run aftermarket slippers on my stuff but I do recall having a time when tuning my SCT with the TLR HDS slipper.

Some folks prefer to run the Associated slipper spring to get a little more clamping force. Haven't done that one myself so I can't comment on its effectiveness.
Thanks MNiceGuy, it was suggested to rough up the pads a bit which I have tried and your description of how much slip sounds about right to what I am finding so I think it is good.

When I was doing an online search for possibly solutions I came across someone else with the same question and the reply was to check the slipper spring (uncompressed) and that it should be 12mm long, his was 10mm. As it turns out mine is also 10mm so not sure the official or correct length. Maybe Frank is paying attention and can answer?

D
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Old 03-09-2016, 10:43 PM
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On my SCT 2.0 with a 9.5t, I ended up running the TLR slipper, but using an AE outer hub and spring/collar. The AE spring is way stronger, but wider, so you need to use the AE hub and collar to keep it centered.
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