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TLR 22T 2.0 Stadium Truck

TLR 22T 2.0 Stadium Truck

Old 02-12-2016, 04:51 PM
  #1141  
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I get my 22T 2.0 next week!! Starting to plan some bits and pieces, but as we all know a RC vehicle is very rarely ever done!

Will be racing indoor carpet for now, was thinking Schumacher Mini Blue Spike tires, not sure compound yet. I know I'll get suggestions at my LHS, but they might be a bit biased, any other suggestions?

This is my first race truck, I'm coming over from a Crawler so it's all new to me over here!

D
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Old 02-12-2016, 05:01 PM
  #1142  
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Questions??

Originally Posted by Headling
Just pickled up a used 22t 1.0, it's a standard car, going to give it a rebuild and a few updates, was thinking bell crank steering, 2.0 caster blocks and maybe dremel the side guards and for a sideways shorty

Any other suggestions??
I'm also interested in this: if a full conversion is over $300: is there a way to get 75% of the benefit for 25% of the price? Maybe get the bellcrank and hubs/arms/driveshafts but skip the new chassis and shock package?
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Old 02-12-2016, 05:05 PM
  #1143  
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Originally Posted by osteo
Will be racing indoor carpet for now, was thinking Schumacher Mini Blue Spike tires, not sure compound yet. I know I'll get suggestions at my LHS, but they might be a bit biased, any other suggestions?
I've seen lots of ST's on carpet with the mini-spike, but that was only because you couldn't get minipins: but they have them now! I bet a set of those new ST yellows would be great!
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Old 02-12-2016, 05:31 PM
  #1144  
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
I definitely don't think this is a fair "review", and quite honestly, was written offensively. The 4-gear tranny isn't a "joke" and the truck is not a "compromised relic".

The truck works AWESOME. As you've seen people chime in over the past few pages, it works awesome out of the box for most. It is consistently competitive against any other truck on the market, and only requires very minor changes from the kit setup to be dialed. Trust me when I say, there is no 10 year old technology, nor 10 year old lap times coming from my truck.

With that said, what is your current setup? Please make sure to cover everything, including the tires, inserts, and saucing, etc. What track do you run at? Can you post a YouTube link so we can check it out?

I think we can get your truck running pretty darn good, just like most of ours run. Maybe a little setup tuning, and some advice on how to set the slipper, diff, bleed shocks, etc.
OK Frank, here it goes. Two reasons I bought this truck. Very few people run them around here, and I always like to be a bit different. Though this is by far not my first Losi....

The other is because of the efforts that mainly people like yourself put into getting in contact with your customers through social media to make sure they are satisfied. Kudos dude..!!

However, as you can tell I am not too happy with the 22t. I have an MM and an RM both ready to go. You can look up Speed RC if you want to check out where I have been spending a lot of my time racing lately and the Friday night and Sunday afternoon competition is extreme to say the least. There is no current pictures of the layout I know of however.

Right now I am at the set up in the instructions cause I wanted to start at square one to make sure I am going in the right direction. After looking at some setup sheets you guys have posted on TLR website, the setup I just deviated from, inadvertently, was almost identical to Mafields Cactus Classis setup, with the exception of rear wheels spaced 2MM rearward, and yellow rear low frequency springs and 35wt shock oil. Other than that, the 2 degree antisquat, camber, shock positions, battery positions, everything was the same, and at the time I felt I was going the right direction, and after "resetting" everything, I found myself to be making the correct changes.

And I can understand your disapproval of my review, but that is my take on things. A relic is something that has survived from a previous time, and I feel the truck has compromised too much rear traction in it's MM configuration. Therefore the adjective "compromised relic" was in there. Not to be insulant personally, but that is my take. And I don't like the four gear tranny. I can learn to live with it, but am already mocking up/modifying parts to run a three gear unit in MM configuration.

And for reference I like the RM configuration. I can drop it on about any surface, any setup, and it will work. At SpeedRC, I run pretty much the same camber, toe, etc., but run the thin antisquat shim, and am able to really stiffen the suspension which makes the car feel at home with me. But RM also gives it, to me anyway, handling characteristics of ST's I was racing years ago. I love the crisp response of the three gear tranny, but the four gear feels like there is a dampener of some sort in the drive train.

I may try to post a video after I get back to the track this Tues.
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Old 02-12-2016, 06:04 PM
  #1145  
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And BTW, I have tried various tires. Everyting from slicks to Panther rattlers. I have had the best luck with mega soft jconcepts stuff with dirt tech foams. I have gotten my best forward bite with clay primes with blue foams, but me best side bite from various treaded tires.
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Old 02-12-2016, 06:46 PM
  #1146  
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Originally Posted by PetRock
I'm also interested in this: if a full conversion is over $300: is there a way to get 75% of the benefit for 25% of the price? Maybe get the bellcrank and hubs/arms/driveshafts but skip the new chassis and shock package?
Converting a first-gen truck to a second-gen is not cost effective at all. As you discovered you could buy a whole new kit for the price that a conversion would cost.

If you really want to low-buck it and get upgrades "a la carte" I'd do like you suggest. Bellcranks, caster blocks, spindles, rear arms and driveshafts. I found the biggest difference between the original and the 2.0 is the added width of the rear arms and driveshafts making the truck far more stable in the corners. The bellcrank/caster block combo just gives the truck more steering overall. But, keep in mind that all the changes work in unison and while not all of them are crucial changes they are improvements nonetheless.

My advice (and what I did) is sell your current truck and use whatever you get out of it to fund the purchase of the new one, then it's like getting a "discount" on the new truck.
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Old 02-13-2016, 01:48 AM
  #1147  
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Thanks for the advice, I'll get the bell cranks and 2.0 caster blocks and see how it goes from there

It's a cheap truck and the class is very small in the Uk so didn't want to spend a fortune on it

Has anyone got a high bite/carpet set up??
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Old 02-13-2016, 05:07 PM
  #1148  
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Funny that people are asking for a 3 gear transmission, yet have a look at the 22 3.0 thread and people are changing to the 4 gear.
Neither is better or worse, it's just what suits you and your conditions.
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Old 02-13-2016, 09:35 PM
  #1149  
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Originally Posted by hyper7driver
OK Frank, here it goes. Two reasons I bought this truck. Very few people run them around here, and I always like to be a bit different. Though this is by far not my first Losi....

The other is because of the efforts that mainly people like yourself put into getting in contact with your customers through social media to make sure they are satisfied. Kudos dude..!!

However, as you can tell I am not too happy with the 22t. I have an MM and an RM both ready to go. You can look up Speed RC if you want to check out where I have been spending a lot of my time racing lately and the Friday night and Sunday afternoon competition is extreme to say the least. There is no current pictures of the layout I know of however.

Right now I am at the set up in the instructions cause I wanted to start at square one to make sure I am going in the right direction. After looking at some setup sheets you guys have posted on TLR website, the setup I just deviated from, inadvertently, was almost identical to Mafields Cactus Classis setup, with the exception of rear wheels spaced 2MM rearward, and yellow rear low frequency springs and 35wt shock oil. Other than that, the 2 degree antisquat, camber, shock positions, battery positions, everything was the same, and at the time I felt I was going the right direction, and after "resetting" everything, I found myself to be making the correct changes.

And I can understand your disapproval of my review, but that is my take on things. A relic is something that has survived from a previous time, and I feel the truck has compromised too much rear traction in it's MM configuration. Therefore the adjective "compromised relic" was in there. Not to be insulant personally, but that is my take. And I don't like the four gear tranny. I can learn to live with it, but am already mocking up/modifying parts to run a three gear unit in MM configuration.

And for reference I like the RM configuration. I can drop it on about any surface, any setup, and it will work. At SpeedRC, I run pretty much the same camber, toe, etc., but run the thin antisquat shim, and am able to really stiffen the suspension which makes the car feel at home with me. But RM also gives it, to me anyway, handling characteristics of ST's I was racing years ago. I love the crisp response of the three gear tranny, but the four gear feels like there is a dampener of some sort in the drive train.

I may try to post a video after I get back to the track this Tues.

You should get in contact with team driver Max Flurer. Frank is very knowledgeable and will be a huge help, but Max can probably get you there quicker because he is always racing at Speed.

I am sure Max will be more than happy to get you dialed in. He is always helpful. He is there most every race night. If they are racing between him and Alex Mueller I am sure 22T is on podium every race night at Speed.

No one likes to hear it but you must look beyond tuning. Most of this stuff is driving. Actually most all forms of racing are driving.

Keep digging. You'll get it.
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Old 02-14-2016, 04:36 PM
  #1150  
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Setup thoughts?

My local track recently switched to high-grip indoor clay with misters (from medium grip dryish indoor clay), so we've all switched to slicks. Current layout is quite narrow and tight, so I went to rear hubs full forward to shorten wheelbase which definitely helped with the tight layout. I'm getting quite a bit of on-power push since switching to slicks from medium-grip dirtwebs. Previously on a more open layout and a drier track, the truck was pretty dialed.

I'm guessing with the track change from medium grip to high-grip, and the tire change from dirt webs to slicks, traction is not quite as balanced? Feels like there is more added traction to the rear than added to the front, not sure if that is typical.

I have rear grip for days, so with the shortened wheelbase and slicks now, I'm thinking of going to stiffer rear springs and up 2.5w in the rear to compensate for the added rear traction and reduce rear weight transfer a little.

Does that sound like I'm heading in the right direction?
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Old 02-15-2016, 04:13 AM
  #1151  
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Originally Posted by tsair
Setup thoughts?

My local track recently switched to high-grip indoor clay with misters (from medium grip dryish indoor clay), so we've all switched to slicks. Current layout is quite narrow and tight, so I went to rear hubs full forward to shorten wheelbase which definitely helped with the tight layout. I'm getting quite a bit of on-power push since switching to slicks from medium-grip dirtwebs. Previously on a more open layout and a drier track, the truck was pretty dialed.



I'm guessing with the track change from medium grip to high-grip, and the tire change from dirt webs to slicks, traction is not quite as balanced? Feels like there is more added traction to the rear than added to the front, not sure if that is typical.

I have rear grip for days, so with the shortened wheelbase and slicks now, I'm thinking of going to stiffer rear springs and up 2.5w in the rear to compensate for the added rear traction and reduce rear weight transfer a little.

Does that sound like I'm heading in the right direction?
First try increasing your rear anti squat, or lengthen your reat camber link. What is you electronics layout? If the push is too bad you may want to put your battery behind your servo and esc behind the battery.
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Old 02-16-2016, 11:11 AM
  #1152  
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Originally Posted by hyper7driver
And BTW, I have tried various tires. Everyting from slicks to Panther rattlers. I have had the best luck with mega soft jconcepts stuff with dirt tech foams. I have gotten my best forward bite with clay primes with blue foams, but me best side bite from various treaded tires.
The best tires for Speed R/C are JC Green Smoothies. See Max Flurer who kills it at Speed with his 22T 2.0 and he'll get you dialed in.
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Old 02-16-2016, 10:50 PM
  #1153  
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Default Setup Update

Frank,

It's been awhile since you posted any setups for the 22T.

Is there any changes to your posted setup for OCRC?
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Old 02-16-2016, 11:01 PM
  #1154  
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I ran my 22t for the first time today. It's really good. Box stock setup but I'm using blue fronts yellow rears 35 40 shock oil. Also using the exotek chassis.



I'm having an odd issue with my orion stock spec esc. It runs fine for a lap or two then it flashes yellow and green when I am at neutral throttle and feels like powers limited it comes back on to full and limits randomly... once I iron that kink out it will be great
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Old 02-17-2016, 10:58 AM
  #1155  
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Originally Posted by gokarter64
I ran my 22t for the first time today. It's really good. Box stock setup but I'm using blue fronts yellow rears 35 40 shock oil. Also using the exotek chassis.



I'm having an odd issue with my orion stock spec esc. It runs fine for a lap or two then it flashes yellow and green when I am at neutral throttle and feels like powers limited it comes back on to full and limits randomly... once I iron that kink out it will be great
How does the exotek chassis feel in comparison?
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