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TLR 22T 2.0 Stadium Truck

TLR 22T 2.0 Stadium Truck

Old 02-09-2016, 03:35 AM
  #1126  
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well I feel stupid. I went to change my anti-squat shim from 1deg to 2deg and I didn't have any shim in it at all and have been running it like that since I built it .......UGHHH
So now I have the 2deg shim in it now I'll get to see how it realy drives !!!
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Old 02-09-2016, 10:04 AM
  #1127  
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Originally Posted by tony montana
I agree, my truck is box stock and is dialed. No need for a new truck imo
With that said I agree the truck is hands down the best out of the box for what's available right now. A 3.0 with new chassis is all I would really want to see. My 22 3.0 is such a good buggy that transition would make one hell of a truck.
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Old 02-09-2016, 10:06 AM
  #1128  
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Originally Posted by hyper7driver
I agree. And the 22 3.0 is about as spot on as it gets!
Agreed.
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Old 02-09-2016, 11:03 AM
  #1129  
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the only feature i really want from the 3.0 is the pill system and 3 gear. my 2.0 is already really good as it is
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Old 02-09-2016, 11:06 AM
  #1130  
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Originally Posted by hyper7driver
The need for a new ST is there too. Go back through these pages and look at people upgrading chassis, brass pivot, battling rear traction, etc. The 4 gear trans is a joke, (going back to the three gear tranny in the buggy is evident that TLR seen a problem with the four gear,) the slipper is marginal at best, ball diff is weak, this thing is simply no where near on par with what is offered by the competition.

Me and two other guys at the track (high bite indoor clay,) have been battling trying to get a set up to work, while others have simply moved on, and we are considering the same.

The kit feels great in rear motor set up, but has it's limits, and should have never been released as a mid motor. It feels like a parts bin truck, and in fact that is what it is. We have better success in rear than mid motor, but you're back to 10 year old technology and 10 year old lap times......

I say; Bring on the 3.0, and ditch this compromised relic!
I definitely don't think this is a fair "review", and quite honestly, was written offensively. The 4-gear tranny isn't a "joke" and the truck is not a "compromised relic".

The truck works AWESOME. As you've seen people chime in over the past few pages, it works awesome out of the box for most. It is consistently competitive against any other truck on the market, and only requires very minor changes from the kit setup to be dialed. Trust me when I say, there is no 10 year old technology, nor 10 year old lap times coming from my truck.

With that said, what is your current setup? Please make sure to cover everything, including the tires, inserts, and saucing, etc. What track do you run at? Can you post a YouTube link so we can check it out?

I think we can get your truck running pretty darn good, just like most of ours run. Maybe a little setup tuning, and some advice on how to set the slipper, diff, bleed shocks, etc.
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Old 02-09-2016, 07:28 PM
  #1131  
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Originally Posted by hyper7driver
What type of surface are you running on, and are you running MM?


Thanks!
Yes MM high grip with slicks (clay)

Last edited by SCRAFAN; 02-09-2016 at 07:30 PM. Reason: Mistake
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Old 02-11-2016, 07:37 AM
  #1132  
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Moderator - I posted a question last night about what is needed to change a 22 2.0 to a 22T - I see it has not been posted as yet, disregard. I found the parts fiches for both vehicles and have been comparing them.

Seeing as someone has actually replied to this, I will be more clear.

I have a smokin deal on the 22 2.0 Buggy and was wondering what parts would be needed to change the 2.0 Buggy to a the 22T 2.0 Truck.

Last edited by osteo; 02-11-2016 at 09:51 AM. Reason: Adding info
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Old 02-11-2016, 08:41 AM
  #1133  
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Originally Posted by osteo
Moderator - I posted a question last night about what is needed to change a 22 2.0 to a 22T - I see it has not been posted as yet, disregard. I found the parts fiches for both vehicles and have been comparing them.
I've converted my 1.0 to a 2.0 from the parts listed required from either this forum or the 1.0 forum. I can tell you the truck was nite and day difference as far as steering and handling. The bell crank along with the 5 caster blocks and 2.O and spindles and it made a huge difference. A lot more steering. On the old setup I used to have to have the travel at 15o now I'm at like 120 for right and 100 for left. The longer rear a arms and drive shafts helped also. If I could have done it again, I would have just bought the 2.0. Probably would have been bout the same price and then I'd have 2 trucks. Side note. I run the SMC 8.5/120esc combo and the thing rips. Couldn't beat it for 150 bucks including a program box...they just came out with a 3rd gen motor also that's probably even better
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Old 02-11-2016, 08:45 AM
  #1134  
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Originally Posted by SCRAFAN
Yes MM high grip with slicks (clay)
Try super soft compound. I used to run clay and doesn't even compare to super soft. Only issue is they wear quick. So I have one set for practice and one for race.
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Old 02-11-2016, 08:55 AM
  #1135  
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Originally Posted by donny939
I've converted my 1.0 to a 2.0 from the parts listed required from either this forum or the 1.0 forum. I can tell you the truck was nite and day difference as far as steering and handling. The bell crank along with the 5 caster blocks and 2.O and spindles and it made a huge difference. A lot more steering. On the old setup I used to have to have the travel at 15o now I'm at like 120 for right and 100 for left. The longer rear a arms and drive shafts helped also. If I could have done it again, I would have just bought the 2.0. Probably would have been bout the same price and then I'd have 2 trucks. Side note. I run the SMC 8.5/120esc combo and the thing rips. Couldn't beat it for 150 bucks including a program box...they just came out with a 3rd gen motor also that's probably even better
Did you change gearing from 1.0 to 2.0?
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Old 02-11-2016, 11:31 AM
  #1136  
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Yea when I went from a 13.5 motor to a 8.5 I went down to a 19th pinion and 82spur. Also upgraded to the hds slipper pads and grooved slipper pads and new out drives. The manual said for an 8.5 turn motor to go with a 19 tooth pinion and 82 spur as a start. So fair I'm happy plenty of top end and low. I can literally walk up to a triple and blip the throttle and easily clear it. Maybe when I start racing outdoors I'll play with the pinion but for indoors I'm happy. Only probably I have is sometimes I'll overshoot jumps but I'm getting better with throttle control.
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Old 02-11-2016, 12:17 PM
  #1137  
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Default How low can you go?

I'm trying to reduce the weight on my 22T 2.0. Down to 1886gm.

What is your weight? Wondering if I can get any lower (I know I can but at what cost $$$).
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Old 02-11-2016, 02:13 PM
  #1138  
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
>
TLR233016 TEAM LOSI RACING SHOCK BODY SET, 50.5MM (2)
Does the 1.0 and 2.0 both have the same front shock body?

The rear shock body of the 2.0 is longer than the 1.0?
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Old 02-12-2016, 08:32 AM
  #1139  
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Just pickled up a used 22t 1.0, it's a standard car, going to give it a rebuild and a few updates, was thinking bell crank steering, 2.0 caster blocks and maybe dremel the side guards and for a sideways shorty

Any other suggestions??
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Old 02-12-2016, 04:12 PM
  #1140  
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Originally Posted by donny939
Try super soft compound. I used to run clay and doesn't even compare to super soft. Only issue is they wear quick. So I have one set for practice and one for race.
I second this....... Works on the dirt in my area anyway, though it is some of the purest orange clay out there.....
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