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TLR 22T 2.0 Stadium Truck

TLR 22T 2.0 Stadium Truck

Old 02-02-2016, 07:11 AM
  #1096  
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Originally Posted by 4wd Racer
29-30mm Front with 28mm Rear would work fine.

If anyone's interested I have an extra NIB 22T 2.0 kit for sale also.
PM me the details, my 22t 2.0 was stolen looking to get back in the ST game.
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Old 02-02-2016, 08:26 PM
  #1097  
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Originally Posted by gokarter64
the shark teeth are painted, and according to the guy i had paint my bodys they were a pain in the ass to mask
He did a good job.
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Old 02-02-2016, 08:40 PM
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Anyone running a shorter wheelbase? My local indoor clay track is currently setup with ridiculously tight, narrow switchbacks and U-turns straight into/out of jumps. Went 1mm forward on the rear hubs, I like it better even though it's a little less stable in the long straightaway/sweeper.

Thinking of going 2mm forward on the hubs, but this seems like it might be a little out-of-bounds?
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Old 02-03-2016, 08:00 PM
  #1099  
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Originally Posted by Dirtraycer
This truck just came out, I wouldn't look for a 3.0 for atleast a year. Even then it would be subject to how well the class is doing. Just My .02
They normally bump versions buggy --> SCT --> ST right? Maybe with the 8IGHT-E 4.0 pushed out the the door the 22SCT 3.0 will be next? (And yeah TLR must be watching to see if the T5M is shipping in volumes that make it look like ST is coming back)
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Old 02-04-2016, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by tsair
Thinking of going 2mm forward on the hubs, but this seems like it might be a little out-of-bounds?
I tried this today and it worked pretty well for our current super-tight, narrow layout. Actually made it drive more buggy-like!
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Old 02-05-2016, 03:37 AM
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this may be a dumb question but can you adjust the bump steer on this truck ?? and if so how/ where ??
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Old 02-05-2016, 11:26 AM
  #1102  
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Originally Posted by Dirtraycer
this may be a dumb question but can you adjust the bump steer on this truck ?? and if so how/ where ??
Yes, but the height of the ball stud on the spindle that connects to the steering tie rod. The higher the ball, the more bumper out and vice-versa.
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Old 02-05-2016, 03:42 PM
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Thanks for the info. I 've been trying to learn to setup my truck better and was just going thru all the terms on the setup sheet and understanding what each adjustment does for the truck. And I realized I didn't know what ackerman, or Bump steer was or how to adjust them lol.
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Old 02-06-2016, 08:47 AM
  #1104  
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Originally Posted by E-Mann
I doubt there will be a 22T 3.0 for a while. The 2.0 was a significant update to the 1.0. Look at the lifespan of the 22 2.0. There was a need for the 3.0 buggy as there were lots of upgrades needed to make the 2.0 competitive and no 3 gear for MM. I don't think that's the case with the 22T 2.0. It comes with pretty much everything needed to be at its best - except the brass pivot for MM.

Don't get me wrong after building the 3.0 buggy I would love to see a new version of the T using the wider chassis, 3 gear and newer rear tower system. I just think the release of the 3.0 T will be more of an evolution of the platform than the improvement in performance on the MM only 3.0 buggy.
The need for a new ST is there too. Go back through these pages and look at people upgrading chassis, brass pivot, battling rear traction, etc. The 4 gear trans is a joke, (going back to the three gear tranny in the buggy is evident that TLR seen a problem with the four gear,) the slipper is marginal at best, ball diff is weak, this thing is simply no where near on par with what is offered by the competition.

Me and two other guys at the track (high bite indoor clay,) have been battling trying to get a set up to work, while others have simply moved on, and we are considering the same.

The kit feels great in rear motor set up, but has it's limits, and should have never been released as a mid motor. It feels like a parts bin truck, and in fact that is what it is. We have better success in rear than mid motor, but you're back to 10 year old technology and 10 year old lap times......

I say; Bring on the 3.0, and ditch this compromised relic!
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Old 02-06-2016, 11:39 PM
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hoping i can get some help right now im using the kit 3.0 degree rear toe block. im wonder what will change if i go to 3.5 or 4 degree toe block? what effect would this have? i run on a med bite smooth slippery track
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Old 02-07-2016, 12:00 AM
  #1106  
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Depends on what problem you are trying to overcome. Rear toe in helps to stabalize the rear and make it more predictable. Too much can cause it to suddenly become lose and in undriveable cause the rear tires are fighting each other too much and traction is then compromised.

Rolling resistance can sometimes become a problem with too much toe, but is usually not an issue.
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Old 02-07-2016, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by hyper7driver
Depends on what problem you are trying to overcome. Rear toe in helps to stabalize the rear and make it more predictable. Too much can cause it to suddenly become lose and in undriveable cause the rear tires are fighting each other too much and traction is then compromised.

Rolling resistance can sometimes become a problem with too much toe, but is usually not an issue.
im just trying to get the rear locked in a bit more so i can drive it harder. would u go 3.5 or 4? also should i stay with low roll center?
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Old 02-07-2016, 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by hyper7driver
The need for a new ST is there too. Go back through these pages and look at people upgrading chassis, brass pivot, battling rear traction, etc. The 4 gear trans is a joke, (going back to the three gear tranny in the buggy is evident that TLR seen a problem with the four gear,) the slipper is marginal at best, ball diff is weak, this thing is simply no where near on par with what is offered by the competition.
I know what you're saying, and there is some truth to it all, but the only vehicle that could be considered better is the T5M. I'd love to see a 22T 3.0 as much as anyone on the planet, but the 2.0 is pretty good vs. the rest of the cars and I think works quite well in MM. I could really use a 3-gear tranny for spec, but with LF yellows in the rear and 25wt AE oil, I'm pretty happy with my rear traction.
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Old 02-07-2016, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by tsair
I know what you're saying, and there is some truth to it all, but the only vehicle that could be considered better is the T5M. I'd love to see a 22T 3.0 as much as anyone on the planet, but the 2.0 is pretty good vs. the rest of the cars and I think works quite well in MM. I could really use a 3-gear tranny for spec, but with LF yellows in the rear and 25wt AE oil, I'm pretty happy with my rear traction.
Have you tried yours in RM set up yet? (I ask not suggesting anything, simply curious.) I have both, and the RM is superior in all but the highest grip situations such as carpet. In RM, the only problem I have had is a slight push exiting corners, but I can enter corners harder so long as I brake correctly. And most of the slight push is dealt by simply loosening the rear diff a little, or other changes depending on track conditions. I can go from track to track without making as many changes as I do in MM, the truck is lighter in RM, the tranny takes less power to turn, it takes less effort to clear jumps, etc. The platform was originally designed to run RM, and it seems to work better in that configuration. In MM, you gain only a little front end grip, and lose a lot of rear grip.

It can be made to work in MM, but with quite a bit of effort and some hop ups. Both Kyosho and AE work quite well with merely parts supplied in the kits. I believe with a three gear tranny, and moving the motor closer to the rear diff, it would alleviate most, if not all the rear traction issues, lighten the truck, and there would be no need for a brass pivot and a bunch of crazy configurations with batteries and electronics to try and regain rear traction.
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Old 02-07-2016, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by DIRT DIGGER
im just trying to get the rear locked in a bit more so i can drive it harder. would u go 3.5 or 4? also should i stay with low roll center?
It is hard to tell without seeing or driving it. I guess you are running mid motor? If so, what are you having problems with? Forward bite? Sliding out? I have found if you are running more than three degrees of rear toe, you are using it to crutch something else not right in your set up. Not always, but that has been my experience.
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