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TLR 22T 2.0 Stadium Truck

TLR 22T 2.0 Stadium Truck

Old 09-09-2015, 09:41 AM
  #826  
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Originally Posted by MNiceGuy
I go the new route because I enjoy building the kit. A nice side-effect is you get first-hand experience on how everything works and fits together.
+1

I bought a used 22 for $80. Within 2 mos I had replaced almost every part. All the A-arms were worn out, tranny case was cracked could not see the crack until I rebuilt the diff, later discovered the chassis was also bent. Now have 600+ invested, great car but will never buy used again.
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Old 09-09-2015, 08:40 PM
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no offense but what did you expect for a 80dollar used kit?
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Old 09-10-2015, 10:16 AM
  #828  
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Originally Posted by I)arkness
no offense but what did you expect for a 80dollar used kit?
Ryan Maifields car

Actually I paid $200, but got a new complete ball diff $50, plus a new Viper 17.5 motor $70, remainder equals TLR 22 $80. But you are correct I wasn't looking to race at the time, but couldnt resist hence the $600 to fix and improve.

If I knew I was going to race I would have bought new, as I have with my 22T 2.0 and 22-4. Plus buidling from the ground up provides knowledge on how the car is built. Knowledge is power
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Old 09-13-2015, 09:08 PM
  #829  
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Default Transmission Binding

I had some time this weekend to work on the binding 4-gear transmission I mentioned earlier in this thread.

The first thing I tried was using a couple 1mm ball-stud spacers after reading that it helped a couple folks. Unfortunately it didn't make one bit of difference on my 22T.

Next, I tried to determine which gear or gears were actually causing the binding. I did this by starting with only the diff in the case and then reinstalling the transmission. Since it did not bind, I then added the lower idler and then reinstalled, etc. I found it was the lower idler causing my problem.

I've marked in yellow where the idler was rubbing.



Now another photo but with the idlers removed. If you look closely, the actual mounting hole for the idler's shaft is not centered in the reinforcement surrounding it.



This is causing the idler to come VERY close to the case wall. So close in fact that I can actually get mine to bind by just applying pressure to that part of the case with my thumb.

Now mind you, the transmission rotates just fine when out of the truck. As I stated before it's only when the front 16mm mounting screws are installed when the binding happens. Why do the front screws cause it? I have no idea. Possibly the little 'feet' at the front aren't completely square so tightening causes a very slight bind?

In the end I took a Dremel to the yellow marked area and very carefully removed some material. In fact, the photo with the yellow mark is after I had already completed this. It was only a slight amount of material removed. Now everything spins free and unrestricted with all mounting screws tightened and no shims.

The transmission case in these photos (and currently in my 22T) was from my 22SCT. As I mentioned in my original post on the topic, the case that came in the 22T's kit was so bad I didn't think I'd be able to run the truck. Looking at that case I notice the same hole is off-centered. Maybe it's my mind playing tricks on me but I'd argue it's even more offset than what you see above.

I think this has to be done though. If the hole was centered the idler would be meshing too hard against the diff and the other idler. If I had to guess, I'd say the case itself was designed but the idler wouldn't quit fit properly. The hole was slightly relocated and all was well in the universe again. Unfortunately it brought the idler VERY close to the case wall and binds up in some installations.
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Old 09-14-2015, 08:10 AM
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I just received a new MM body from Horizon and I noticed this one came pre-cut and has little 'flaps' that tuck under the bottom.

I also noticed that the flaps hang down past the bottom of the chassis. This might be a dumb question but do I just leave it like that or do I bend them a little further? In my head I see a scene playing out where the leading edge of one of the flaps gets hooked on something (I run carpet) and chaos follows.
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Old 09-14-2015, 08:24 AM
  #831  
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You can bend them up more. Want them flush with side guards I believe.
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Old 09-14-2015, 09:00 AM
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MNiceGuy...nice find on the binding issue. I don't have that issue, but did notice the offset hole before as I was doing maintenace on the diff, and though it looked a little odd. Looks like maybe a new batch of diff housings are off on tolerance just enough to cause people to start seeing this.......Oh and I just end up cutting the flaps off on the body, but I think it's just "whatever floats your boat"
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Old 09-14-2015, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by MNiceGuy
I had some time this weekend to work on the binding 4-gear transmission I mentioned earlier in this thread.

The first thing I tried was using a couple 1mm ball-stud spacers after reading that it helped a couple folks. Unfortunately it didn't make one bit of difference on my 22T.

Next, I tried to determine which gear or gears were actually causing the binding. I did this by starting with only the diff in the case and then reinstalling the transmission. Since it did not bind, I then added the lower idler and then reinstalled, etc. I found it was the lower idler causing my problem.

I've marked in yellow where the idler was rubbing.



Now another photo but with the idlers removed. If you look closely, the actual mounting hole for the idler's shaft is not centered in the reinforcement surrounding it.



This is causing the idler to come VERY close to the case wall. So close in fact that I can actually get mine to bind by just applying pressure to that part of the case with my thumb.

Now mind you, the transmission rotates just fine when out of the truck. As I stated before it's only when the front 16mm mounting screws are installed when the binding happens. Why do the front screws cause it? I have no idea. Possibly the little 'feet' at the front aren't completely square so tightening causes a very slight bind?

In the end I took a Dremel to the yellow marked area and very carefully removed some material. In fact, the photo with the yellow mark is after I had already completed this. It was only a slight amount of material removed. Now everything spins free and unrestricted with all mounting screws tightened and no shims.

The transmission case in these photos (and currently in my 22T) was from my 22SCT. As I mentioned in my original post on the topic, the case that came in the 22T's kit was so bad I didn't think I'd be able to run the truck. Looking at that case I notice the same hole is off-centered. Maybe it's my mind playing tricks on me but I'd argue it's even more offset than what you see above.

I think this has to be done though. If the hole was centered the idler would be meshing too hard against the diff and the other idler. If I had to guess, I'd say the case itself was designed but the idler wouldn't quit fit properly. The hole was slightly relocated and all was well in the universe again. Unfortunately it brought the idler VERY close to the case wall and binds up in some installations.
I bought a brand new case for a gear diff setup and the case has the exact same flaw as yours, spins free and clear when apart, put it together and the lower idler rubs on the case, I went through 3 new cases until I could find one that fit correctly.
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Old 09-14-2015, 06:33 PM
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Is anybody using the rear brass weight and the hinge pin holder weight ?
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Old 09-15-2015, 09:02 AM
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I use the brass hinge pin holder weight but never really found the rear weights (diff case) to be of much use for me. I run on high-bite carpet
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Old 09-15-2015, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Lenman73
Is anybody using the rear brass weight and the hinge pin holder weight ?
I always run it
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Old 09-15-2015, 05:39 PM
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Thank you
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Old 09-16-2015, 08:23 PM
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regarding weight and placement, if your track grip finally came up to high levels would you start to remove the weight you have added?
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Old 09-17-2015, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by I)arkness
regarding weight and placement, if your track grip finally came up to high levels would you start to remove the weight you have added?
If you have added weight besides the MM Hinge Pin Brace Brass Weight (35g), then yes. But even on high grip the Hinge Pin Brace Brass Weight (35g) keeps the rear stable.
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Old 09-17-2015, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Mudcat981
If you have added weight besides the MM Hinge Pin Brace Brass Weight (35g), then yes. But even on high grip the Hinge Pin Brace Brass Weight (35g) keeps the rear stable.
Also provides more noticeable forward bite.
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