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TLR 22T 2.0 Stadium Truck

TLR 22T 2.0 Stadium Truck

Old 08-19-2015, 06:34 PM
  #796  
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Originally Posted by nitrousdave
Yes, I've got the correct insert and correct shim. I've got 6 or 7 of these trucks and I don't recall having this issue with any of the 1.0's. BTW, the air gap is before tightening the front screws which i think is causing the case to flex once the screws are tight.
I had the same issue with this kit and my 22SCT 2.0. Fortunately I have all TLR cars and plenty of spares. I swapped my tranny case and the issue went away.
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Old 08-20-2015, 12:27 AM
  #797  
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Default Set up help

I am running this truck in the rear motor configuration at the moment. The track that I am running at is an outdoor hard packed clay dirt mix, mainly an 8th scale track. Would it be beneficial for me to run the truck in the mid motor configuration?

Frank: what configuration would u use? What set up should I put on it?
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Old 08-21-2015, 04:18 PM
  #798  
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Anyone notice on ryans and franks set up the rear lower shock positions has 2 holes, but the kit setup according to manual has 3 holes?
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Old 08-21-2015, 10:44 PM
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I know this is a stupid question from a newbie, but what options do I have in wheels if I pick up a 22T 2.0?

If I am just having fun in the street and not racing, can I use any 2.2 wheel I want as long as the offset is okay?

Is there any way of knowing what the stock offset is and then what the offset is of aftermarket wheels? It seems as if this info is a little hard to come by.

Just looking to see if I have more options than the plain buggy white/yellow racing wheel look.

Thanks
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Old 08-22-2015, 06:26 AM
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Does any body know which after market body fits the 22t 2.0 setup in rear mount. I was hoping to get a bulldog body but every where i look says discontinued. TIA
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Old 08-22-2015, 06:47 AM
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@DNADrifter - As long as you aren't racing and don't care about overall width, there are lots of 2.2 wheel choices that will work. "Backspacing" is next to impossible to find for different wheels, because unlike in the full size auto world RC wheels don't have a standard measurement routine for determining "backspacing". Often in RC people use "backspacing" and "offset" incorrectly compared to the 1:1 world. There are also many 2.8 wheels that will work, again in "non-racing" environment.


@HSV427 - JConcepts has "Finnisher" bodies in both mm and rm. Here's a link to the rm version on amain.com.

http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/jconcep...co0226/p225192

-W
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Old 08-26-2015, 08:51 PM
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For those of you running mid-motor, are you using short, square/saddle, or standard/stick packs?
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Old 08-27-2015, 08:49 AM
  #803  
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Originally Posted by MNiceGuy
For those of you running mid-motor, are you using short, square/saddle, or standard/stick packs?
Shorty for spec racing, square/saddle when running mod.

Assuming you mean MM...
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Old 08-31-2015, 09:28 AM
  #804  
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Originally Posted by nitrousdave
Anybody else notice their transmission binding when building their truck mid motor and when you tighten it to the chassis? I noticed it when I built my stock truck and just shimmed it and moved on but I was converting my mod truck to mid last night and noticed it doing it too. I could install the two rear pairs of screws but when I went to tighten the front screws to the hinge pin mount (I'm u sing brass tlr one) I could see a gap between the case and the mount. The transmission spins freely until I tighten it all the way down. It still turns afterward but nowhere near as freely. I had to shim the whole thing up about 1 mm to get rid of the binding when tightened down.
Even loosely installing the rear screws and tightening the front ones first didn't help. I need the truck for a race Saturday so I didn't spend a lot of time investigating but it seems like the transmission might be hitting on the cutout in the chassis like it's too small and/or the transmission sits too low. I'll be ordering my third 2.0 for indoor season soon and it will be mid motor too and I bet it will have the same issue.
I experienced the same thing when building mine over the weekend. I'm also running mid-motor.

When I assembled the transmission, everything rolled nice and smooth. Once I got it into the truck however I noticed binding once those two front 16mm screws were tightened.

I have a small fleet of TLR 22 vehicles here so I did all manner of experimentation trying to resolve this:

-Ensured I was using the proper pivot block shim/anti-squat combination
-Measured combined thickness of shim/anti-squat (all sets came to around 4.41mm)
-Removed and reseated transmission multiple times
-Swapped pivot blocks
-Tried shorter front transmission screws (12mm instead of 16mm)
-Adjusted screw tension for not only the tranny case but the mounting as well

Finally I just swapped a known-good 4-gear from my 22SCT which has been butter smooth from the very beginning. Once it got in the 22T it was binding but not as bad as with the 22T kit's transmission. What's interesting is if I keep my hand on the top of the transmission when I tighten those front screws, I can feel it flex toward the chassis ever so slightly. You can have the other screws tight as you dare without any effect. It's definitely the front ones causing the problem.

There is something going on here. I spent quite a few hours trying to remedy this and the best I could do is back those front 16mm off a little. It still has just a touch of bind but at this point I have to do something to get this thing going.

Based on what I'm seeing, the only thing I can come up with is the rear of the chassis has a problem. With swapping parts around this weekend it was the only part I didn't have a spare of.

Anyone else have another idea that maybe I missed?

EDIT: Forgot to mention, the transmission will also bind of ONLY the front screws are tightened and the others are not even installed.
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Old 08-31-2015, 05:27 PM
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I'm glad somebody else has noticed the same thing, at least if I'm crazy I'm not alone lol.
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Old 08-31-2015, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by nitrousdave
I'm glad somebody else has noticed the same thing, at least if I'm crazy I'm not alone lol.
Yeah I think this one's legit. I put 6-7 hours into this particular problem. At some point I did a quick Google to see if I could find some insight and ended up landing right on your post.

I also think you may have identified the culprit in said post: something with the machining at the back of the chassis. It has to be. Not only did I swap in every other part but I swapped in parts that have been working perfectly fine in another truck. I mean literally, I swapped in every other part of the rear assembly down to the rear skid/bumper. Good thing I did too because there was no way someone could run this truck with the transmission case that came in the box.

I've been thinking calling up Horizon/Losi to see what they're willing to do.
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Old 09-01-2015, 03:36 AM
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I am building this truck right now and am experiencing the same problem. Does a new tranny case solve this?
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Old 09-01-2015, 04:45 AM
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I don't know, my solution so far has been to put shims between the trans case and the pivot block so that it doesn't get pulled down and put in a bind when tightening the front screws. Something I didn't think of, which pivot block are you guys using, the stock one or the brass one? In my case I've used the brass one each time and haven't even tried the stock one.
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Old 09-01-2015, 04:47 AM
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I am using the stock one.
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Old 09-01-2015, 05:22 AM
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That would seem to rule out the pivot block being the issue then.
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