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TLR 22T 2.0 Stadium Truck

TLR 22T 2.0 Stadium Truck

Old 08-12-2015, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by GETDAT View Post
Don't know if anyone has answer this question but I was wondering what's the lightest anyone has gotten there 22T 2.0.
Going to be running the Surf City Classic in a few weeks and I need all the help I can get to compete against those three gears T5M trucks.

Thanks in advance
don't know what others weigh in at, but mine is 1962
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Old 08-12-2015, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Braxamus View Post
Got any pics and do you have a normal size servo ?
Normal size servo. I will shoot some pics when i get home.
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Old 08-12-2015, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Braxamus View Post
Does the new kits come with the brass weight for the mm setup?
It does not, that is an option/tuning part.
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Old 08-14-2015, 09:19 AM
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What gearing are people running in stock mid motor? I have a d4 17.5 maxzilla but i cant just get it to feel as fast as the other trucks.. tried all sorts of combos 25/76 seems best so far for torque buy feels slow. Timing at 50
Thanks!
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Old 08-17-2015, 09:30 AM
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I am running 25/78 with 45* of timing. Does anyone know what the weight difference is between the 22T and 22T 2.0 chassis?
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Old 08-17-2015, 10:52 AM
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Anyone have a real good outdoor turf (RC Madness) setup for the ST?

I run the Maifield setup with side pod weights now on all clay and dirt surfaces. Absolutely love it, but not quiet sure its going to be best for the turf.

Should I be running the gear diff?
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Old 08-18-2015, 02:54 AM
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ok so just started to install my electronics into my new kit and wondered it people install a fan anywhere when running mm??

also would someone please be able to tell me what the part numbers are for the alloy wheel clamps as i haven't even ran the kit and the keep falling off and its really annoying, especially having to keep looking for the pin
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Old 08-18-2015, 04:01 AM
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Originally Posted by darkstar1974 View Post
Anyone have a real good outdoor turf (RC Madness) setup for the ST?

I run the Maifield setup with side pod weights now on all clay and dirt surfaces. Absolutely love it, but not quiet sure its going to be best for the turf.

Should I be running the gear diff?
I can't speak of turf, but I started recently made a jump to high traction carpet. I started with the box setup (except -5wt oil in the rear). It drove well and yeilded good lap times but was lacking on power steering. Over the course of a few weeks I stiffened the suspension (oil and springs), used less rear toe and mounted the battery inbetween the esc and servo to move more weight forward and keep it low.
The box setup should be at least in the ballpark.
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Old 08-18-2015, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 1badgoat View Post
I can't speak of turf, but I started recently made a jump to high traction carpet. I started with the box setup (except -5wt oil in the rear). It drove well and yeilded good lap times but was lacking on power steering. Over the course of a few weeks I stiffened the suspension (oil and springs), used less rear toe and mounted the battery inbetween the esc and servo to move more weight forward and keep it low.
The box setup should be at least in the ballpark.

Thx for the advice. Im pretty close to box setup now, I'll just lower the ride height and start from there.
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Old 08-18-2015, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by I)arkness View Post
ok so just started to install my electronics into my new kit and wondered it people install a fan anywhere when running mm??

also would someone please be able to tell me what the part numbers are for the alloy wheel clamps as i haven't even ran the kit and the keep falling off and its really annoying, especially having to keep looking for the pin
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR2933
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Old 08-18-2015, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by I)arkness View Post
ok so just started to install my electronics into my new kit and wondered it people install a fan anywhere when running mm??
I built this using the 2.0 waterfall brace:



Pretty easy if you have a few tools around. Start by drawing an 'X' from the corners of the vertical lines on the brace to provide a center point. Next I tapped a small hole in the middle of the X, then followed up with a hole-cutting bit a tad smaller than the fan diameter (25mm). Used calipers to get the fan's inner-diameter, then a dremel to widen the hole in the brace to match, using the calipers to check the work. Last I used the calipers again to measure the centers of two opposite screw holes, then used that as a guide to punch holes for mounting screws.

Whole process took about 15 minutes the second time. I have one in my buggy and one in my stadium truck. Pretty worthwhile mod if you run a stock class.

Last edited by Christophoclese; 08-18-2015 at 09:44 AM. Reason: Whoops, thought this was the SCT thread.
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Old 08-19-2015, 04:56 AM
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Anybody else notice their transmission binding when building their truck mid motor and when you tighten it to the chassis? I noticed it when I built my stock truck and just shimmed it and moved on but I was converting my mod truck to mid last night and noticed it doing it too. I could install the two rear pairs of screws but when I went to tighten the front screws to the hinge pin mount (I'm u sing brass tlr one) I could see a gap between the case and the mount. The transmission spins freely until I tighten it all the way down. It still turns afterward but nowhere near as freely. I had to shim the whole thing up about 1 mm to get rid of the binding when tightened down.
Even loosely installing the rear screws and tightening the front ones first didn't help. I need the truck for a race Saturday so I didn't spend a lot of time investigating but it seems like the transmission might be hitting on the cutout in the chassis like it's too small and/or the transmission sits too low. I'll be ordering my third 2.0 for indoor season soon and it will be mid motor too and I bet it will have the same issue.
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Old 08-19-2015, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by nitrousdave View Post
Anybody else notice their transmission binding when building their truck mid motor and when you tighten it to the chassis? I noticed it when I built my stock truck and just shimmed it and moved on but I was converting my mod truck to mid last night and noticed it doing it too. I could install the two rear pairs of screws but when I went to tighten the front screws to the hinge pin mount (I'm u sing brass tlr one) I could see a gap between the case and the mount. The transmission spins freely until I tighten it all the way down. It still turns afterward but nowhere near as freely. I had to shim the whole thing up about 1 mm to get rid of the binding when tightened down.
Even loosely installing the rear screws and tightening the front ones first didn't help. I need the truck for a race Saturday so I didn't spend a lot of time investigating but it seems like the transmission might be hitting on the cutout in the chassis like it's too small and/or the transmission sits too low. I'll be ordering my third 2.0 for indoor season soon and it will be mid motor too and I bet it will have the same issue.
When you made the switch did you swap out the anti-squat insert? The insert for the rear-motor configuration is threaded, while the mid-motor pieces allow the screws to pass through and thread into the gearbox. The mid-motor inserts also come in varying heights, so you also have to match the correct insert with your amount of anti-squat. The correct insert will ensure that the transmission sits level regardless of anti-squat setting.

There shouldn't be any air gaps. The front of the transmission should snug down onto the insert, which should pinch the pivot and anti-squat shim onto the chassis.
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Old 08-19-2015, 11:33 AM
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Yes, I've got the correct insert and correct shim. I've got 6 or 7 of these trucks and I don't recall having this issue with any of the 1.0's. BTW, the air gap is before tightening the front screws which i think is causing the case to flex once the screws are tight.
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Old 08-19-2015, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by nitrousdave View Post
Yes, I've got the correct insert and correct shim. I've got 6 or 7 of these trucks and I don't recall having this issue with any of the 1.0's. BTW, the air gap is before tightening the front screws which i think is causing the case to flex once the screws are tight.
The manual calls for TLR5965 20mm screws which I found to be too long and overextended into the gearbox. I ended up using 16mm screws.
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