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TLR 22T 2.0 Stadium Truck

TLR 22T 2.0 Stadium Truck

Old 08-04-2015, 12:13 PM
  #766  
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Thanks everyone! Tyler is excited to jump into ST this winter.
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Old 08-04-2015, 06:56 PM
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Has anyone played with the shock limiters in the rear shocks ?
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Old 08-07-2015, 06:21 AM
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so about to get a 22t 2.0 and wondering because im used to running 2wd buggy rear motor would i be better suited to setting it up in rm or does the 22t run better in mm? or just more a personal preference.....

will be running in mod with viper 8.5t, tekin rs pro with shorty lipo and power hd brushless servo. outdoors low-med grip, bumpy on clay

any advice and thanks in advance, cheers
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Old 08-07-2015, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by I)arkness
so about to get a 22t 2.0 and wondering because im used to running 2wd buggy rear motor would i be better suited to setting it up in rm or does the 22t run better in mm? or just more a personal preference.....

will be running in mod with viper 8.5t, tekin rs pro with shorty lipo and power hd brushless servo. outdoors low-med grip, bumpy on clay

any advice and thanks in advance, cheers
IMO, on a truly low-med grip track I'd run rear motor. I have tried buggy and ST in both rear and mid motor setups over the past year, and my general feelings are this...

On groomed, smooth, high-grip tracks the mid-motor setup is very difficult to beat. However as the traction goes away, most mid-motor setups need weight added to the rear to help with traction. At some point you add too much weight and the vehicle drives like a fat pig. Rear-motor is where it's at here.

For me, overall, it's easier to drive rear motor at race pace in a wider variety of conditions. I'm a weekend club racer, with a life and family...I don't have the time to be converting my car back and forth constantly and/or spending tons of time at the track during the week to test. I liked my mid-motor setups, but I won't be going back.
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Old 08-07-2015, 09:55 AM
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I completely agree with the post above. I have done a lot of driving in both rear and mid and came to similar conclusions. Other factors to be aware of, however are track layout and jumps.

I did some comparisons on my local track that is very low grip but the current layout is very fast and flowing. There are no tight turns or hair pins. On this layout my mid motor is faster because I can carry more speed through the turns.

I went to another track that was smoother and higher grip (still outdoor but run holeshots instead of step pins) but the layout was tighter and I could not get the mid motor to rotate around the hair pin as well as rear motor. If you have a tight layout the grip needs to be good or RM will be better - IMO

Depending on the jumps at your track, rear motor jumps more consistently and is easier to adjust in mid air. Usually there is a little nose up and you can tap the breaks to bring it down. With mid motor it may jump more flat but if you need to adjust in mid air it is really easy to give it too much break and nose dive.
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Old 08-07-2015, 11:50 PM
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cool thanks guys for advice, i had assumed as much
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Old 08-10-2015, 03:50 PM
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I just built one with the 4 gear transmission, but it doesn't spin very freely. One of the idle gears seems to have a really tight mesh to the next gear. It's binding enough that even with no motor installed, turning one wheel causes the diff to spin the other wheel rather then the spur gear. Did I get a badly molded transmission case? Is there anything I can do to free up the gears?
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Old 08-10-2015, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Myt3rocks
I just built one with the 4 gear transmission, but it doesn't spin very freely. One of the idle gears seems to have a really tight mesh to the next gear. It's binding enough that even with no motor installed, turning one wheel causes the diff to spin the other wheel rather then the spur gear. Did I get a badly molded transmission case? Is there anything I can do to free up the gears?
I had the same issue. Fortunately I had spare idler gears and that fixed my problem.
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Old 08-10-2015, 07:35 PM
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Similar issue here, difference being that it was the main diff gear just touching in the corner. A little relief cut with the dremel fixed it right up. It seems to be a molding issue.
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Old 08-11-2015, 03:19 PM
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Does the new kits come with the brass weight for the mm setup?
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Old 08-11-2015, 06:46 PM
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No, you have to buy it.
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Old 08-12-2015, 02:05 AM
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Don't know if anyone has answer this question but I was wondering what's the lightest anyone has gotten there 22T 2.0.
Going to be running the Surf City Classic in a few weeks and I need all the help I can get to compete against those three gears T5M trucks.

Thanks in advance
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Old 08-12-2015, 04:02 AM
  #778  
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Looking at getting one of these, but my only hang up is the fact that the ESC is mounted on top of the battery on a part that is movable. is there a way to move it to in front of the battery like the T5M without a lot of work and $$ on extra, and special parts?
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Old 08-12-2015, 04:44 AM
  #779  
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Originally Posted by Braxamus
Looking at getting one of these, but my only hang up is the fact that the ESC is mounted on top of the battery on a part that is movable. is there a way to move it to in front of the battery like the T5M without a lot of work and $$ on extra, and special parts?
I mounted my esc in front of my battery with no modification. I just put my rx on top of the servo. I run an orion stock esc fits easy.
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Old 08-12-2015, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by starspike
I mounted my esc in front of my battery with no modification. I just put my rx on top of the servo. I run an orion stock esc fits easy.
Got any pics and do you have a normal size servo ?
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