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TLR 22T 2.0 Stadium Truck

TLR 22T 2.0 Stadium Truck

Old 04-06-2015, 07:15 PM
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My 22T 1.5 upgrade is in full swing...I wanted to ask when will the 2.0 specific steering arms be available? I just put on the bellcranks & I have a bind at the angled ball cups. I still have the 1.0 steering arms on...I'm assuming they are the reason for the binding...? Thanks for the help in advance!
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Old 04-07-2015, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Jack Bonhomme
What is the correct length for the steering drag link, using the bell cranks and new 2.0 steering spindles? I'm upgrading my 1.0 with 2.0 parts and want to make sure that I have full steering travel in both directions. If it matters, I'm using a Spektrum 6040 servo.
The manuals state 30.0mm, from personal experience, if you hit from like 30mm-32mm, you should be ok.

Originally Posted by BLbound
My 22T 1.5 upgrade is in full swing...I wanted to ask when will the 2.0 specific steering arms be available? I just put on the bellcranks & I have a bind at the angled ball cups. I still have the 1.0 steering arms on...I'm assuming they are the reason for the binding...? Thanks for the help in advance!
All of the 2.0 truck parts did ship so they are all available now. Oh yes, you need some version of the 2.0 steering setup for the bellcranks to work properly.
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Old 04-07-2015, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Mudcat981
Ryan, which track are you running at?
Also can you provide a setup sheet?
I am running at OCRC primarily but I got to a lot of tracks throughout the year. Typically setups that we make at OCRc turn out decent at most other tracks that would be indoor or of at least medium bite. I really like OCRC and making setups there since it is so darn consistent and you can really feel what each change does quickly. Usually means I can make 2-4 changes per pack as it only takes around 5 laps to feel what the change did. And I only like to make one change at a time.

Give me just a little more time with it as I have only had one day so far and I will surely get a setup sheet out there. The kit setup really isnt too bad of a place to start from.
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Old 04-07-2015, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by hacker07
I am running at OCRC primarily but I got to a lot of tracks throughout the year. Typically setups that we make at OCRc turn out decent at most other tracks that would be indoor or of at least medium bite. I really like OCRC and making setups there since it is so darn consistent and you can really feel what each change does quickly. Usually means I can make 2-4 changes per pack as it only takes around 5 laps to feel what the change did. And I only like to make one change at a time.

Give me just a little more time with it as I have only had one day so far and I will surely get a setup sheet out there. The kit setup really isnt too bad of a place to start from.
We tried the shock package you are running with the rest of the truck being Dakotas setup and it was really good. Brother just didn't have front slicks so his steering wasn't the best (tires are still too new and LRH is definitely a slicks track right now). he is ordering another set of Panther slicks for the front, and should be the most dialed he has ever been. For people upgrading remember to get the 80mm tie rods for the back camber links. The arms are so long the 75mm SCT rods are too short.
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Old 04-07-2015, 08:38 AM
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Thanks Ryan!
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Old 04-07-2015, 08:53 AM
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I set mine up like Frank's. 27.5 in rear, added brass weight, alum hexes and spacers. Gonna run it tomorrow at club race and will report back.

Our track is outdoor clay, doesn't get loamy, but gets a little loose at times. I have a feeling i'm going to need to more forward bite.
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Old 04-07-2015, 12:07 PM
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Frank or Ryan can you please explain how to cut out and mount the wing on the mid motor body? The cut out lines are hard to see on the wing its self do I cut it out with that triangle attached or cut that off? and then what do I do with the other two triangles? the directions don't show and I cant find anything else on the internet on how to do it.. I feel kind of dumb haha. Thanks in advance!
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Old 04-07-2015, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by starspike
Frank or Ryan can you please explain how to cut out and mount the wing on the mid motor body? The cut out lines are hard to see on the wing its self do I cut it out with that triangle attached or cut that off? and then what do I do with the other two triangles? the directions don't show and I cant find anything else on the internet on how to do it.. I feel kind of dumb haha. Thanks in advance!
I hope this can help some...the rear spoiler all the way down to the triangle is one piece, you can see it in this pic I think.

http://losiracing.blogspot.com/2015/...nting-tip.html
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Old 04-07-2015, 02:00 PM
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Default Springs - Very Short?

Just put my shocks together and noticed that the springs seem to be very short. I have only a few threads remaining at the bottom for adjustment?
I looked at Frank's Under the Hood pics and his are the same.

I have not mounted the shocks and adjusted with full running weight but it seems the springs are too short? Is this by design?
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Old 04-07-2015, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Mudcat981
Just put my shocks together and noticed that the springs seem to be very short. I have only a few threads remaining at the bottom for adjustment?
I looked at Frank's Under the Hood pics and his are the same.

I have not mounted the shocks and adjusted with full running weight but it seems the springs are too short? Is this by design?
Yep, the shock bodies are longer than the 1.0 kit but the springs are the same length. That will push your adjustment collar further down the body than it used to. The 22SCT is the same way.
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Old 04-08-2015, 05:34 AM
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How about a pinned section on the thread for setups build tips and future development stuff pertaining to the 22T on the first page.
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Old 04-08-2015, 07:44 AM
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Has anyone had trouble with bent axles or cracked bellcranks when you thread the screw in? My kit has one slightly bent axle in the rear,and on both kits where the bellcranks screw into the block the plastic cracked when the screw was only in like half way,also my wheels are out of round and the outside almost looks like there is bubbles in my wheels.
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Old 04-08-2015, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by kman16jr
Has anyone had trouble with bent axles or cracked bellcranks when you thread the screw in? My kit has one slightly bent axle in the rear,and on both kits where the bellcranks screw into the block the plastic cracked when the screw was only in like half way,also my wheels are out of round and the outside almost looks like there is bubbles in my wheels.
Nope, only issue with my kit was missing a shock bleed screw copper washer. Fortunatley I have plenty of spares. Otherwise my kit was complete and is ready to run this Friday

I do wish the there were instructions on the wing how to cut it and attach it. I have it figured out but it took a while. FYI the 2 extra triangle peices are for added support. Place one on top and one on the bottom of the body.
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Old 04-08-2015, 01:20 PM
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I'd like to add a tip or word of caution when building your 22T 2.0 kit. This kit does not include the clamping rear hexes. It has the standard push-on plastic hexes that rely on friction to hold onto the axle and cross pin. The directions have you install the hex and pin pretty early in the build process, well before you would be installing the wheels. My hexes fit loosely and during my build they slid off the axle and I lost my cross pins. Fortunately I was able to cut some new pins from an old drill bit. I would recommend you either buy the 22SCT clamping hexes or hold off on installing the hexes and pins until you are ready to put the wheels on the truck.
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Old 04-08-2015, 01:23 PM
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Mine snapped on,my only complaints were that the holes on my bellcrank peice was too small so when the put the screws in it split,bubbles wheels and a slightly bent driveshafts.
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