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TLR 22T 2.0 Stadium Truck

TLR 22T 2.0 Stadium Truck

Old 02-02-2015, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by StadiumRC
Is an aluminum idler a necessary upgrade? If running in mid configuration would you run 2 aluminum idlers or just one next to the topshaft? Thanks!
I would think you would want to run a plastic idler next to the top shaft that way you would have metal-plastic-metal-plastic and the plastic gears would act as a "cushion" between the metal gears and to avoid metal to metal contact.
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Old 02-03-2015, 02:25 AM
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I'm looking to get the 22T 2.0 what motor would you recommend for mod class ??
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Old 02-03-2015, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Dirtraycer
I'm looking to get the 22T 2.0 what motor would you recommend for mod class ??
Well, trinity makes a 2.5 mod motor now.

Just kidding.

You run whatever you're comfy with. I ordered a 7.5 turn for mod truck.
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Old 02-03-2015, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by StadiumRC
Is an aluminum idler a necessary upgrade? If running in mid configuration would you run 2 aluminum idlers or just one next to the topshaft? Thanks!
If you run on a really high bite track and drive aggressively, landing on throttle when landing jumps etc., it is probably a good idea.

I would also go top shaft, plastic idler, alum idler, plastic diff gear.

Originally Posted by Dirtraycer
I'm looking to get the 22T 2.0 what motor would you recommend for mod class ??
7.5T for most and a 6.5T for those who aren't faint of heart

Guess what is in my truck
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Old 02-03-2015, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
If you run on a really high bite track and drive aggressively, landing on throttle when landing jumps etc., it is probably a good idea.

I would also go top shaft, plastic idler, alum idler, plastic diff gear.



7.5T for most and a 6.5T for those who aren't faint of heart

Guess what is in my truck
8.5?
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Old 02-03-2015, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Carranza76
8.5?
Maybe for the first half of the trigger pull
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Old 02-03-2015, 09:37 AM
  #172  
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
If you run on a really high bite track and drive aggressively, landing on throttle when landing jumps etc., it is probably a good idea.

I would also go top shaft, plastic idler, alum idler, plastic diff gear.



7.5T for most and a 6.5T for those who aren't faint of heart

Guess what is in my truck
9T Brushed Modified motor .... 6.5?
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Old 02-03-2015, 09:41 AM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by xyzracer
I would think you would want to run a plastic idler next to the top shaft that way you would have metal-plastic-metal-plastic and the plastic gears would act as a "cushion" between the metal gears and to avoid metal to metal contact.
My experience with the Alu idler gear next to the shaft was alott of wear. So as stated above go Plastic then Alu , Plastic then alu.
Originally Posted by Dirtraycer
I'm looking to get the 22T 2.0 what motor would you recommend for mod class ??
From this old guy running outdoor loose track I was running a 7.5, found it hard to drive.
So I went to a 10.5 with Boost and Turbo. I like it more because its soft on the bottom but really goes when you apply full throttle.
I have wayyyyy more control. I'm a speed freak but got REAL!
Now High bite is another ballgame, I like 7.5 with zero timing.
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Old 02-03-2015, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by XXXDad
My experience with the Alu idler gear next to the shaft was alott of wear. So as stated above go Plastic then Alu , Plastic then alu.
Shouldn't have any wear if using some black grease (as recommended). I've run the same top shaft and idler in my RM 22SCT 2.0 (alum v. alum) for well over a year and the anodizing hasn't worn off the parts.... lasts a long time
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Old 02-04-2015, 12:37 PM
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What is the part # for the KYO Gold front spring?

Also... I've been running Dakota's RM setup for a while - wondering if anyone has improved on his RM setup. There any suggested changes?

Last edited by JourneyMan; 02-04-2015 at 12:47 PM.
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Old 02-04-2015, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by JourneyMan
What is the part # for the KYO Gold front spring?

Also... I've been running Dakota's RM setup for a while - wondering if anyone has improved on his RM setup. There any suggested changes?
http://www.amain.com/kyosho-medium-l...dium-2/p231222
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Old 02-04-2015, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
If you run on a really high bite track and drive aggressively, landing on throttle when landing jumps etc., it is probably a good idea.

I would also go top shaft, plastic idler, alum idler, plastic diff gear.



7.5T for most and a 6.5T for those who aren't faint of heart

Guess what is in my truck
I am really liking the used $35 LRP 6.5 I have in my truck. Never wanting for power.
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Old 02-04-2015, 04:54 PM
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Exclamation Here you go Frank

Yes black grease was used , Here are some Pic. This is a year of Racing with normal maintenance . This is just my experience. Passing along my info just to HELP never bashing TLR> Notice the saw blade effect as a result of Alu. Idler gear in direct contact. Yes I changed the bearing.... but only after I noticed the Bad handling ( hooking when going off throttle)







Originally Posted by Frank Root
Shouldn't have any wear if using some black grease (as recommended). I've run the same top shaft and idler in my RM 22SCT 2.0 (alum v. alum) for well over a year and the anodizing hasn't worn off the parts.... lasts a long time
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Old 02-04-2015, 06:13 PM
  #179  
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Default Jconcepts Body

Does anyone know if the Jconcepts body, part#0226, will fit in both the mid-motor and rear motor configuration? Their website doesn't specify. Thanks.
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Old 02-05-2015, 09:33 AM
  #180  
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Frank, I will never complain about the price of a set of TLR LF springs after seeing the KYO cost for one pair.
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