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TLR 22T 2.0 Stadium Truck

TLR 22T 2.0 Stadium Truck

Old 11-20-2016, 01:21 PM
  #1726  
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Originally Posted by DriveItLikeYSIT
I used the CF spacer in between the chassis and the tranny on my EXO22T. I had to use an 8mm set screw instead of the included 6mm and used CA glue to glue the CF spacer on the chassis..
It drives ok like that? I tried that and it seemed like it put the inner hinge pin on a pretty steep angle and seemed weird to raise the bumper off the chassis that much. I assume they are trying to replicate the step up that the stock chassis has?
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Old 11-21-2016, 09:20 AM
  #1727  
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Originally Posted by invrtd
Anyone know if the gear diff from the RTR kit will fit the mid motor configuration? Wanting to play with gear diff on high bite track. The RTR gear diff looks a little fat in pictures. Any info is appreciated.
The RTR diff will fit but it's prone to leaking. I know mine sure did and I know others have mentioned it. If you need something decent right now then I recommend the Serpent SRX-2 or SRX-4 diff with a few shims. I have a couple of these and they fit and work just fine. No leaks yet.

Originally Posted by Jack Bonhomme
I certainly hope when the eventual release of a 22T 3.0 happens, TLR sees fit to also have an updated new body! We can't have the 3rd generation truck STILL running the same body as the Gen 1 truck.....
I agree. I get the feeling people like the current body and while it's not bad, I would love to see something fresh.

Originally Posted by nitrousdave
For the guys with the exotek chassis, did you use the carbon spacer that goes on the rear of the chassis? If you used it where did you put it, on top of the chassis between it and the bumper? It kind of seems unnecessary to me.
You want that spacer in there. The Exotek chassis is completely flat so that spacer mimics the kick-up the stock chassis has.

Originally Posted by bigbenmbx7t
Does anyone run on carpet? I'm having a real hard time working the push out of this truck. It was insanely twitchy on 2wd buggy rears on all 4 corners (I hadn't gotten ST carpet tires yet) then today with a box stock setup and the carpet tires it pushes like a dump truck. I have stock piston and springs. AE 37.5/ 32.5. All the links are in the standard box stock position. My EPA is set where it should be. I was running the Schumacher wedge style front and mini pins in the back. Higher ride height helped but it just seems like the caster blocks need to be less. Any ideas would be appreciated. I've tested everything with little luck.
I run mine on carpet. The best setup, by far I've had is Frank's Stock Nats setup here with a one step stiffer front springs (blue to his green) and a slightly lowered ride height (25mm to his 28mm).

I think you'll find on carpet that tires are critical to the performance of this truck. I use yellow Schumacher Mini Pin on the rear, and full, uncut Schumacher Stagger Rib in front. I also use firm open cell foam (JConcepts has a good option) instead of the more commonly-used closed cell from AKA.

It may not be for everyone but this setup is the most balanced and easiest to drive (without the notorious push or unpredictable oversteer) that I've experienced in the 18 months I've been running mine.
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Old 11-21-2016, 11:07 AM
  #1728  
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Originally Posted by StadiumRC
I had a few questions regarding the 3 gear transmission for this truck. Is there a plastic idler gear available? If not has anyone had any wear issues with the aluminum idler against the topshaft? Why is the idler gear in this transmission so much larger than you typically see?

Referring to the previous post, I would also love to see a 3.0 truck soon, but I'm making plans to buy a 2.0 next week regardless. I like the stock TLR bodies, a refresh would be cool but I would be fine with the same body on 3.0 truck. Out of all the manufacturers, I think TLR does the best job of consistently creating quality kit bodies.
Are you greasing the gears with black grease?
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Old 11-21-2016, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
Are you greasing the gears with black grease?
I don't have the 3-gear conversion kit yet, I was asking to see if anyone had any issues with the aluminum idler in theirs - I haven't used an aluminum idler before so I was trying to cover the bases before purchasing. If black grease is all that's required then I'm good to go. I normally use a little bit of black grease anyway, never broken a gear.
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Old 11-21-2016, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Expose193
Hello guys. Iv just resently picked up a 22t 2.0. I took it to race this weekend, and I'm having trouble with it doing 180s I have a 6.5 tekin set up, its doing 180 on the straight aways , it not staying planted , any suggestions?
I am new to this truck too but if its doing 180's and you are pointed straight ahead than look at the diff or if something is dragging on one side versus the other. Also, do you have the right tires for that track. If you are new, a 6.5 is alot of motor.
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Old 11-21-2016, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by StadiumRC
I don't have the 3-gear conversion kit yet, I was asking to see if anyone had any issues with the aluminum idler in theirs - I haven't used an aluminum idler before so I was trying to cover the bases before purchasing. If black grease is all that's required then I'm good to go. I normally use a little bit of black grease anyway, never broken a gear.
Got ya. Alum/alum gears are totally fine, as long as they are greased.
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Old 11-21-2016, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by nitrousdave
It drives ok like that? I tried that and it seemed like it put the inner hinge pin on a pretty steep angle and seemed weird to raise the bumper off the chassis that much. I assume they are trying to replicate the step up that the stock chassis has?
I like how the 22T 2.0 handles with exotek conversion kit and prefer it over the stock chassis at a medium sized track with 1/8 scale jumps with medium to loamy traction. I have never tried running the EXO22T without the CF spacer
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Old 11-21-2016, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
Got ya. Alum/alum gears are totally fine, as long as they are greased.
Also make sure you get a new top shaft with that.
Even if yours looks good.
I learned the hard way.
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Old 11-22-2016, 01:02 PM
  #1734  
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Just purchased my 22T 2.0 and a few optional parts....$209 for the truck at Amain, great deal and will be lots of fun.
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Old 11-22-2016, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by StadiumRC
Just purchased my 22T 2.0 and a few optional parts....$209 for the truck at Amain, great deal and will be lots of fun.
What option parts?
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Old 11-23-2016, 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Jsapata
What option parts?
Aluminum hexes, Lunsford turnbuckles, aluminum idler gear (for 4 gear transmission), aluminum ball stud washers, 35g brass pivot
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Old 11-28-2016, 11:18 AM
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I measured the step up on the stock chassis and the CF spacer is the same, just looks funny when installed to me.

Frank, any idea when more 3 gear conversions will be available and does one of the options on the new SCT spindle have the same geometry as the 2.0 truck spindle?
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Old 11-28-2016, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by nitrousdave
Frank, any idea when more 3 gear conversions will be available and does one of the options on the new SCT spindle have the same geometry as the 2.0 truck spindle?
Looks like they should be next week here in the ONT warehouse, but your LHS can have them cross shipped.

SCT spindle is different geometry from the 2.0 truck, but improved. You'll need a different front axle though, which will be the issue for putting it on the 2.0 truck.
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Old 11-28-2016, 12:30 PM
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Thanks for the quick response Frank!
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Old 11-28-2016, 01:58 PM
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Does the 2.0 kit come with the Mid motor body or rear motor body? Thinking about ordering a kit but need to know if I need to order mid motor body too. I know the kit comes with a body or does it come with both?
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