TLR 22T 2.0 Stadium Truck
10-26-2016, 08:29 PM
#1666
Thanks for the clarification Tyler... it's just that the 3 gear stand up transmission in my 3.0 Buggy doesn't look anything like the 3 gear stand up transmission in the 2.0 Truck, none of the holes match up between the waterfall nor hinge pin blocks. I was trying to figure out a way to use some of the 3.0 buggy parts on the 2.0 truck but it looks like a lost cause.
10-27-2016, 12:10 PM
#1667
Yeah, I was kinda wondering how much of a difference it will be (on the track), kinda bummed most setup sheets don't show the weight bias because I think that tells more about a setup than anything else in finding the perfect balance for corner speed. That's why I'm gonna try slicks up front and play with some different strengths of sauce to see if I can get in the right ball park before having to move some weight around. I might have to lower the rear ride height a pinch maybe. We go through a set of tires once per race day and I'd like to get to a point where I only have to buy 1 pair of tires for the rear, then move the balded rear tires to the front and save some cash.
I also would like to clarify your setup for OCRC is still at 28mm ride height?
I'm seeing some other setups as low as 18mm for indoor clay and that's a significant difference!
There is a 3-gear that came with the EXO conversion, is that considered the "dirt laydown" and could/would I simply buy the stand up 3.0 gear box and/or is there a post somewhere that explains the options on how to get the optimal gear box for clay?
I think the stand up gear box might let me move the battery back a pinch to make it easier to hit my desired 38/62 weight bias without having to jack with a lower ride height in the rear.
Thanks in advance
I also would like to clarify your setup for OCRC is still at 28mm ride height?
I'm seeing some other setups as low as 18mm for indoor clay and that's a significant difference!
There is a 3-gear that came with the EXO conversion, is that considered the "dirt laydown" and could/would I simply buy the stand up 3.0 gear box and/or is there a post somewhere that explains the options on how to get the optimal gear box for clay?
I think the stand up gear box might let me move the battery back a pinch to make it easier to hit my desired 38/62 weight bias without having to jack with a lower ride height in the rear.
Thanks in advance
As for the Exo converion, we didn't design, test it, or run it, so I have not idea what the geometry is exactly, or which parts you would be without. Someone else might be able to get those answers for you.
We've been preferring laydown for 'most' clay tracks, but stand up with worth a shot IMO. The parts are pretty cheap to try it.
10-27-2016, 12:55 PM
#1668
Thanks Frank, I find it interesting that you chose to bump the front height up to 29mm instead of dropping the rear to 27mm... I don't recall the jumps at OCRC being THAT big the last time I was out there. I recently started running 18mm height on my 4WD SC (along with removing a ton of droop) and that dropped a few tenths off my fast lap times, though I agree, there is one jump with a flat landing where the chassis slaps a little harder than it should, but it's not enough to cause any significant problems where the gains in corner speed around the rest of the track will more than make up the difference from the loss in that split second from that hard landing (which conveniently drops into a tight turn anyway). We've got a new layout change coming up for our local ROAR regionals next month and I suspect that my 18mm ride height might no longer work for the new layout 
The geometry of the Exotek chassis appears to be identical, at least all the holes are perfectly lined up and they use the same kick up angle on the front plate. I guess the main difference will probably be chassis flex characteristics and transverse LiPo allowing a little more rear weight bias and hopefully not need any extra weight added to the chassis (fingers crossed).
With the release of another brand's ST this week, we've got about 10 fast drivers planning to bring 2WD Mod ST back out of retirement at our local club, plus some sportsman drivers are talking about getting into the mix as well, fingers crossed we see some weekly B and C mains for this class too!
The geometry of the Exotek chassis appears to be identical, at least all the holes are perfectly lined up and they use the same kick up angle on the front plate. I guess the main difference will probably be chassis flex characteristics and transverse LiPo allowing a little more rear weight bias and hopefully not need any extra weight added to the chassis (fingers crossed).
With the release of another brand's ST this week, we've got about 10 fast drivers planning to bring 2WD Mod ST back out of retirement at our local club, plus some sportsman drivers are talking about getting into the mix as well, fingers crossed we see some weekly B and C mains for this class too!
10-27-2016, 11:11 PM
#1669
Hey everyone, long time follower on this thread, first time poster.
I was wondering if anyone knows if the headlight stickers are available separately from the body? I recently bought a body and the headlight sheet was omitted or forgotten. It was new and sealed. Just wondering if there's anywhere to find replacements without buying a body?
Thanks
I was wondering if anyone knows if the headlight stickers are available separately from the body? I recently bought a body and the headlight sheet was omitted or forgotten. It was new and sealed. Just wondering if there's anywhere to find replacements without buying a body?
Thanks
10-28-2016, 06:54 AM
#1670
Hey everyone, long time follower on this thread, first time poster.
I was wondering if anyone knows if the headlight stickers are available separately from the body? I recently bought a body and the headlight sheet was omitted or forgotten. It was new and sealed. Just wondering if there's anywhere to find replacements without buying a body?
Thanks
I was wondering if anyone knows if the headlight stickers are available separately from the body? I recently bought a body and the headlight sheet was omitted or forgotten. It was new and sealed. Just wondering if there's anywhere to find replacements without buying a body?
Thanks
10-28-2016, 07:01 AM
#1671
Hey everyone, long time follower on this thread, first time poster.
I was wondering if anyone knows if the headlight stickers are available separately from the body? I recently bought a body and the headlight sheet was omitted or forgotten. It was new and sealed. Just wondering if there's anywhere to find replacements without buying a body?
Thanks
I was wondering if anyone knows if the headlight stickers are available separately from the body? I recently bought a body and the headlight sheet was omitted or forgotten. It was new and sealed. Just wondering if there's anywhere to find replacements without buying a body?
Thanks
Primer: How to make custom decals
Another option is to take the print out and use XXX Main Picture Glue to apply the print out under the body before it's painted
I used regular ink jet paper + picture glue to apply these headlights on my SCT, in fact every decal on this car was created on my inkjet printer (except for the R/C Brand specific decals):
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8615/...6d7a93b7_z.jpg
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8605/...3ccf7b17_z.jpg
Last edited by billdelong; 10-28-2016 at 07:15 AM.
10-28-2016, 12:32 PM
#1673
By any chance is Rob Engle monitoring this thread, or anyone know how I might contact him or anyone can help answer the following questions?
I recently started reading up on Rob's Rocket Mod and I started going through his parts list, and had questions for the following parts in the list:
1) TLR front SCT camber block (TLR2058) -- is this necessary, why can't I use the ST stock part?
2) TLR 2mm Trailing Spindle Set (TLR1061) -OR- 4mm Trailing Spindle Set (TLR1107) -- Is this necessary, what is the advantage/purpose of using trailing spindles? I can only assume the farther the trailing angle to more stable the corner handling
3) Has anyone installed SCT parts on the rear yet? Sway bars, etc?
Side question for Frank (assuming you're reading this)... will the next ST from Losi start using the SCT arms and/or fall into using the same standard wheel offset as most other brands on the ST market to make it easier for folks for a more standard size wheel selection?
If not too late, I think it would be worth considering adding some droop tabs on the chassis since high traction clay seems to be picking up in popularity... it's kind of a pain having to adjust my droop with spacers inside the shock bodies... really surprised this hasn't become an industry standard for all 1/10 off road cars yet.
Probably the most clever design I've seen so far are the droop tabs on the BZ-222 which are integrated with the suspension arm holders and bolted onto the suspension arms:
I recently started reading up on Rob's Rocket Mod and I started going through his parts list, and had questions for the following parts in the list:
1) TLR front SCT camber block (TLR2058) -- is this necessary, why can't I use the ST stock part?
2) TLR 2mm Trailing Spindle Set (TLR1061) -OR- 4mm Trailing Spindle Set (TLR1107) -- Is this necessary, what is the advantage/purpose of using trailing spindles? I can only assume the farther the trailing angle to more stable the corner handling
3) Has anyone installed SCT parts on the rear yet? Sway bars, etc?
Side question for Frank (assuming you're reading this)... will the next ST from Losi start using the SCT arms and/or fall into using the same standard wheel offset as most other brands on the ST market to make it easier for folks for a more standard size wheel selection?
If not too late, I think it would be worth considering adding some droop tabs on the chassis since high traction clay seems to be picking up in popularity... it's kind of a pain having to adjust my droop with spacers inside the shock bodies... really surprised this hasn't become an industry standard for all 1/10 off road cars yet.
Probably the most clever design I've seen so far are the droop tabs on the BZ-222 which are integrated with the suspension arm holders and bolted onto the suspension arms:
10-28-2016, 01:43 PM
#1674
That "rocket mod" looks like its for the 1.0. The 2.0 has different front end parts. Try it as is, you will probably not feel the need to mess with it.
10-28-2016, 02:53 PM
#1676
do you still run a brick pack ?
10-28-2016, 02:54 PM
#1677
Yes, I am still running 29mm front and 28mm rear all of the time. If you run at 18mm, the truck won't land well and will certainly not handle properly.
As for the Exo converion, we didn't design, test it, or run it, so I have not idea what the geometry is exactly, or which parts you would be without. Someone else might be able to get those answers for you.
We've been preferring laydown for 'most' clay tracks, but stand up with worth a shot IMO. The parts are pretty cheap to try it.
As for the Exo converion, we didn't design, test it, or run it, so I have not idea what the geometry is exactly, or which parts you would be without. Someone else might be able to get those answers for you.
We've been preferring laydown for 'most' clay tracks, but stand up with worth a shot IMO. The parts are pretty cheap to try it.
hey frank.
are you still running a brick pack ?
10-28-2016, 08:45 PM
#1678
How to install avid slipper clutch set using stock shaft , having troubles, any good video links out there?
10-28-2016, 09:04 PM
#1679
Hey Walt! Hope you're enjoying your truck! As per Frank's suggestion, I'm running a brick pack in my truck. I have the 35g Brass weight under the front of the 3 gear tranny conversion, running his Stock Nats setup with a 7.5T mod motor. Only change I made was to run 3.5 degrees of rear toe in. My truck's been running great on virtually all track conditions. It jumps nice and level and stays pretty planted while cornering.
10-28-2016, 10:50 PM
#1680
Hey Walt! Hope you're enjoying your truck! As per Frank's suggestion, I'm running a brick pack in my truck. I have the 35g Brass weight under the front of the 3 gear tranny conversion, running his Stock Nats setup with a 7.5T mod motor. Only change I made was to run 3.5 degrees of rear toe in. My truck's been running great on virtually all track conditions. It jumps nice and level and stays pretty planted while cornering.
