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kyosho electric offroad

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Old 01-31-2006, 06:04 PM
  #811  
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He needs to anodize the shocks black.
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Old 01-31-2006, 06:16 PM
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HA! Sometimes it does get hard to see late in the evening after my eyes are tired from the flourescent lights at the track...when driving my B4 which has the same paint scheme, that is.

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Old 01-31-2006, 08:30 PM
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Where are people mounting the 2 aluminum braces? I noticed that people are getting 2 (1 for the front and 1 for the rear). However, are they both going in the front portion of the car (i.e. one is front front and other is front rear) or is one going in the very front and one in the very rear of the car (ie. front front and rear rear)? Any help would be much appreciated.
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Old 01-31-2006, 09:27 PM
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i havent heard of people using 2 braces... that would be overkill... all you need is the one in the VERY front...
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Old 01-31-2006, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by killer89
i havent heard of people using 2 braces... that would be overkill... all you need is the one in the VERY front...
I dis-agree. I have personnaly never broke a stock plastic front arm front brace, but I did break the front rear arm brace. I put them both on my car. Also tightened up the excessive play in the arms.

So, yes, the front arm front brace and the rear arm front brace.
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Old 01-31-2006, 10:03 PM
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hmm.. guess I have been corrected.



Cornerspeed: you race at SoCal right? when are you racing there next?
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Old 01-31-2006, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by killer89
hmm.. guess I have been corrected.



Cornerspeed: you race at SoCal right? when are you racing there next?
I've only raced there recently once about a month ago. Don't know when I'll make it up there again. Well, I will be there Saturday racing on-road though.
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Old 02-01-2006, 03:21 AM
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I too never broke the front hingepin brace (because I built the prototype and installed it before ever running the car) but I did catch a wheelnut on a pipe and broke the front brace for the rear arms. So I installed one of my aluminium front braces and found it worked pefectly. So I would have to say no 2 braces are not overkill . Besides if you run a brushed motor like I do you need extra weight ,not that there heavy ,but the car is like 3-5 oz.s lighter than ROAR rulings state , 3.9 lbs I think ? I need to look it up again ,but mine can in ready for the track at 3.6
Also any one looking for the braces ,they are dwindleing fast ,so if you need one you best not procrastinate.
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Old 02-01-2006, 10:38 AM
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hey guys my name is Brent and i am new to RC-tech. figured i'd jump in the forum that i best fit. i am somewhat of a new ZX-5 guy that does the best i can. i an not a top of the pack racer but i am out for a good time, and to be Dayton and Mike's parts supplier...sup Dayton by the way. good luck this weekend. gimme a call and let me know how this go. i attached some pics of my ZX-5 below.

"out like a fat kid in dodgeball"
Attached Thumbnails kyosho electric offroad-4wd-finished-2.jpg   kyosho electric offroad-4wd-elec.jpg   kyosho electric offroad-kyosho-new.jpg   kyosho electric offroad-new-kyosho.jpg  
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Old 02-01-2006, 11:04 AM
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Hey Corky, hit me on direct connect when you get a second.
Dayton
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Old 02-01-2006, 12:59 PM
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chaosxxx-nt- Here is my setup


FRONT: Kyosho #2 pistons ( stock ), Losi 30wt oil, Losi dark Green front buggy springs, 1-C camber link ( farthest outside whole on the tower block ). -1 camber, 0 toe in. Shock inside on the A-arm, middle whole on the tower.

REAR: Kyosho # #2-b? ( stock) ( I don't have my manual on me, the stock rear pistons ) pistons, AE 35wt oil, Losi Pink rear buggy spring, Stock camber link on the tower block, middle on the Hub, Hubs forward, Shock on the inside on the A-arm, second whole down from the top on the tower. Battery in the rear, Front One Way, ride height set at bones level.


If you or any one have any questions please feel free to post here, or e-mail me at [email protected]
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Old 02-01-2006, 01:00 PM
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American Custom Engineering is currently in the process of developing a carbon fiber chassis for the ZX-5. We want to gauge the the interest before we commit to the production of this product. The chassis will be CNC machined out of 2.5mm or 3mm carbon fiber. We are looking at 2 different types of CF. Regular 0-90/0-90 style or Quasi-isotropic. The Quasi grade is, torsionally, more rigid than 0-90, but is it necessary to have more torsional ridigity. The down-side to the Quasi is it's more expensive, which means the chassis will be more expensive. From what we can tell so far, the 0-90/0-90 works great. Let us know what you guys think, and post it here, or check out A.C.E. web site at www.acerodparts.com and leave your comments there. Thanks.

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Old 02-01-2006, 03:52 PM
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rcdude69, sounds like a great idea, but I think for most people it will come down to the price. Right now, the stock chassis is just fine. It seems to suit the car well and causes no handling issues from what I can tell. Overall, the car is extremely light and I don't know how much extra weight people are looking to lose with a new carbon fiber chassis. Lastly, a new stock chassis is 26$. That is very inexpensive to replace a broken chassis. If your carbon fiber one was 50$ or so and wouldn't break, I'd consider. JMO.
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Old 02-01-2006, 05:46 PM
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Here's an updated ZX5 editable set-up sheet I made.

Zx5 Editable Set-Up Sheet

Test this and see what you think...
Just let me know what else it needs.



Tre's

Last edited by Tres; 02-01-2006 at 05:57 PM.
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Old 02-01-2006, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Tres
Here's an updated ZX5 editable set-up sheet I made.

Zx5 Editable Set-Up Sheet

Test this and see what you think...
Just let me know what else it needs.



Tre's
Very nice...
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