104LikesYokomo YZ-4
12-14-2015, 11:32 AM
#541
My bet is that your drivetrain is not (yet) free. Therefore as soon as you let off the throttle it dives. If running the stock 8mm belt it maybe takes 10-15 lipo's until the drivetrain loosen's up?
Hi all,
Put mine through its paces and have a couple of queries:
1. It's terrible on jumps - noses down all the time, and requires full throttle in the air to even keep it able to land... Is anyone else finding this? I have tried moving weight as far back as possible!?
2. Struggling for rear traction... Though more toe has improved this along with weight!
3. I see there is a LOT of play in the front arm inner mounts as the inserts move in the Ali mount... Anyone finding this a problem? I added 1.5mm spacer in front before the brace but now everything has slop! I see the team guys at the Worlds had a different front brace that clamped around the chassis.
Thanks,
Dave
Put mine through its paces and have a couple of queries:
1. It's terrible on jumps - noses down all the time, and requires full throttle in the air to even keep it able to land... Is anyone else finding this? I have tried moving weight as far back as possible!?
2. Struggling for rear traction... Though more toe has improved this along with weight!
3. I see there is a LOT of play in the front arm inner mounts as the inserts move in the Ali mount... Anyone finding this a problem? I added 1.5mm spacer in front before the brace but now everything has slop! I see the team guys at the Worlds had a different front brace that clamped around the chassis.
Thanks,
Dave
12-14-2015, 12:54 PM
#542
Tech Regular
Even when the drive train loosens, and like Kempower says, it will, you may have too much drag brake. The car slows naturally quicker than a geared drivetrain would as the revolving mass is less therefore there is less inertia. Try also reducing drag brake as the natural breaking effect could also have a effect much like you describe.
12-14-2015, 01:47 PM
#543
Even when the drive train loosens, and like Kempower says, it will, you may have too much drag brake. The car slows naturally quicker than a geared drivetrain would as the revolving mass is less therefore there is less inertia. Try also reducing drag brake as the natural breaking effect could also have a effect much like you describe.
12-14-2015, 02:42 PM
#544
Sounds like wrong shock setup.
12-14-2015, 03:10 PM
#546
This is really silly but I just installed the narrow belt rear setup...Anyone know where I can get a thin washer to replace the blue one on the center pulley? Black would be ideal. OCD won't let me let this go.
The blue inside the front and rear hubs is bugging me enough and those aren't even seen! Yes, it's an illness.
The blue inside the front and rear hubs is bugging me enough and those aren't even seen! Yes, it's an illness.
12-14-2015, 03:28 PM
#547
Tech Regular
This is really silly but I just installed the narrow belt rear setup...Anyone know where I can get a thin washer to replace the blue one on the center pulley? Black would be ideal. OCD won't let me let this go.
The blue inside the front and rear hubs is bugging me enough and those aren't even seen! Yes, it's an illness.
The blue inside the front and rear hubs is bugging me enough and those aren't even seen! Yes, it's an illness.
12-14-2015, 04:28 PM
#549
With the aluminium idler connecting to to the metal top shaft it will make the idler wear over time and it may become a bit noisy with wear, but it won't strip and won't damage your diff gear.
12-14-2015, 04:39 PM
#550
This is really silly but I just installed the narrow belt rear setup...Anyone know where I can get a thin washer to replace the blue one on the center pulley? Black would be ideal. OCD won't let me let this go.
The blue inside the front and rear hubs is bugging me enough and those aren't even seen! Yes, it's an illness.
The blue inside the front and rear hubs is bugging me enough and those aren't even seen! Yes, it's an illness.
12-14-2015, 05:04 PM
#552
12-14-2015, 06:02 PM
#553
Buy Eureka pro lube and lightly coat your top shaft gear, idler and diff. Really helps reduce friction within the gears. Great product! I believe made in Australia. This stuff quiets your inner tranny big time. I was having issues with my Kyosho SC6 stripping idler gears in MMotor config, thus once I started using Eureka I have had no issues.
On another note running saddles side by side vertically works well. Yes it's a little extra weight but it sets the back end down.
